One Pan Chicken by Claire Thomson – Cookbook Review

Who is Claire Thomson?
If you haven’t already heard of her, Claire Thomson is a chef and food writer behind the immensely popular @5oclockapron where she shares (almost) daily reels of the food she cooks for her family of 5. She is famed for her enthusiasm for fuss-free food, encouraging followers to skip the stress and embrace joy in their cooking, all while celebrating seasonal, sustainable ingredients. She is the author of 9 cookbooks — including the award-winning Tomato: 70 Recipes Celebrating the Extraordinary Tomato and immensely popular Home Cookery Year: Four Seasons, Over 200 Recipes for All Possible Occasions — and has written for the Guardian, Telegraph, Good Food and many others. She also recently launched the ‘5 o’clock apron podcast’ where she ‘chops and chats’ with guests from a host of professions as they share what they cook every day in their real-life kitchens. 

What is One Pan Chicken’s USP?
Jumping on the popularity of ‘One Pot’ and ‘One Tin’ cookbooks, One Pan Chicken promises 70 simple, delicious and inventive recipes using various popular cuts of chicken and one casserole dish, roasting pan, baking tray, frying pan or stockpot.

What will I love?
Chicken is a regular in most people’s shopping baskets, but it is easy to get stuck in a rut when it comes to recipes. Thomson provides the solution with a plethora of adventurous ideas inspired by cuisines across the world, from ‘Miso Butter Chicken’ to ‘Hungarian Chicken Paprikash’. For a book confined to one ‘hero’ ingredient, there is an impressive variety, from something light like a ‘Caesar Salad’ or warming like a ‘Chicken with Borlotti Beans, Cavolo Nero and Rosemary’. There’s recipes for both oven and hob and that utilise breasts, thighs, wings or a whole chicken to delicious effect. The recipes (all accompanied by a beautifully shot photo) genuinely feel ‘new’ and will inject a little excitement into your mealtimes.

Is it good bedtime reading?
The focus of the book is on flavoursome recipes for busy people. If you are expecting essays on free-range chicken, sustainable poultry farming and/or the origins of various chicken dishes (akin to the beautifully written seasonal introductions found in Thomson’s Home Cookery Year) you will be disappointed. In fairness, the one page introduction touches on these points, and each recipe includes an introduction which shares advice and the inspiration behind the dish.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
One of Thomson’s many strong points is that she always ensures her recipes are accessible and includes alternative suggestions if an ingredient is remotely tricky to find. For example, the ‘Chicken Braciole’ uses pecorino in the filling instead of the harder-to-source, but traditional, provolone (although the option is included for those able to find it). Likewise, the ‘Elote-style Chicken with Corn’ suggests using feta while mentioning that Cotija and Chihuahua are authentic choices. You may struggle to source the fried maize (kikos) used in the recipe, but you could always make your own. There is the odd mention of more unusual ingredients like rosewater, dried sour cherries, Japanese seven spice (togarashi), truffle oil, truffle paste and dried porcini mushrooms, but nowadays they aren’t too difficult to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Like all her books (and recipe videos on her 5 o’clock apron instagram), Thomson’s instructions are clear and detailed enough to guide even the most nervous cooks. The only slight criticism is that it would be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head. 

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Sticky Sesame Marmalade Chicken Wings’ are dangerously addictive (be sure to make extra), while the ‘Fried Chicken with Kimchi’ is a must-try for fans of sweet and sour dishes. Meanwhile, the ‘Chicken Dauphinoise with Dijon and Cream’ is the ultimate comfort food on a cold and chilly day, while the ‘Za’atar Chicken served with Hummus, Pine Nuts and Pomegranate’ is a jewelled, flavour-packed dish that will transport your taste buds straight to the Middle East. Don’t miss the ‘Chicken with Tortilla Chips, Black Beans and Feta’ in the ‘Leftovers’ chapter – in fact, I would recommend cooking extra chicken just to give it a go…

How often will I cook from this book?
This could easily become a go-to cookbook when you want something simple and stress-free, that still delivers on flavour. The variety of recipes is what makes this book such a winner. From a classic ‘Chicken and Leek Pot Pie’ to a vibrant ‘Chimichurri Chicken with Roast Squash’ — not to mention the Greek-inspired ‘Chicken Soup with Egg and Lemon’ and the ‘Chicken Baguette with Tarragon, Gherkin and Mustard Butter’ — there genuinely is something for every mood, season, taste and occasion.

Any negatives?
Despite being part of the ‘One Pan’ cookbook cohort, not all recipes are ‘complete meals’ and would typically call for rice, pasta, potatoes etc alongside (thus requiring an extra pan). 

Should I buy the book?
A definite ‘yes’. Thomson has, once again, excelled at creating yet another cookbook full of enticing, accessible recipes that leave you counting down until suppertime. One Pan Chicken is a must-have for anyone looking to enhance their culinary repertoire with flavour-packed fuss-free chicken recipes that will delight the whole family.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Anyone looking for inspiring, faff-free ways to celebrate the humble chicken.
Great for fans of: Rukmini Ayer
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: One Pan Chicken: 70 All-in-One Chicken Recipes For Simple Meals, Every Day
£20.00, Quadrille

Cook the Book
Chicken Pilaf
Chicken Tagine with Chickpeas, Dates and Apricots
Fried Chicken with Kimchi

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food