For professional chefs

The Science of Baking by Matt Adlard – Cookbook Review

Who is Matt Adlard?
Matt Adlard is a self-taught baker and pastry chef from Norwich, known for making professional pastry techniques approachable for home cooks. He is the son of former Michelin-starred chef David Adlard, who ran Adlard’s in Norwich from 1990 to 2007 where chefs including Tom Kerridge and Aiden Byrne worked in the kitchen. Through his website, online classes and large social media following (@mattadlard), he shares detailed tutorials, troubleshooting advice and practical tips designed to help bakers improve their skills with confidence. His debut cookbook, Bake it Better became a Publishers Weekly bestseller. The Science of Baking is his second cookbook.

What is The Science of Baking’s USP?
It’s a baking manual rooted in food science, yet written for home cooks. Adlard doesn’t just tell you what to do, he explains why it works. However, fat from being overwhelming, that scientific insight is carefully balanced with practical guidance and approachable language, so you come away not just with beautiful bakes, but with a deeper intuition for technique and ingredients.

What will I love?
Meticulous notes compare essentials like types of pastry and flours. Clear, elegant infographics explain everything from gluten formation to the impact of mixing methods, and sidebars break down texture differences in a way that feels genuinely illuminating rather than academic.

The troubleshooting sections are especially helpful, offering a way to decode what went wrong and, importantly, how to fix it next time. That kind of guidance transforms mistakes from frustrations into learning opportunities.

The photography and design also deserve a mention. Clever visual layouts (such as a brownie split into three to show ‘chewy’, ‘fudgy’ and ‘cakey’ sections side-by-side) make complex information easy to digest and genuinely enticing to explore.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Adlard writes with clarity and a light touch, weaving insight with practical advice. Even when you are not actively planning to bake, it is absorbing to dip into: you might start by reading about the science behind meringues or laminated dough and find yourself several pages later, having learned something new without it ever feeling heavy or overly technical. The tone is curious and encouraging rather than instructional, making it the sort of cookbook you can happily read cover to cover.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
For the most part, no. The book relies on well-known essentials (flour, butter, sugar, eggs and chocolate) that are easy to find at most supermarkets. Some recipes (such as the gluten-free tiger bread) call for particular types of flour, which may mean a quick trip to a specialist store or ordering online, but nothing feels prohibitively niche. The focus is on technique and understanding, not exotic ingredients.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Although not all the recipes are easy in themselves (the book is designed to help elevate your skills after all), they are very easy to follow. Instructions are written with patience and precision, with steps that never assume prior expertise. The infographics and side notes explaining the purpose of each stage make even unfamiliar techniques feel achievable. Where other books might overwhelm you with terminology, Adlard’s explanations feel like gentle coaching, genuinely supportive and confidence-building. The accompanying photos are also clear and thoughtfully staged, helping you visualise the key stages and the final result.

Importantly, the book is designed to expand your skills gradually. There is a reassuring range of classic favourites like soda bread, chocolate chip cookies and other dependable staples, sitting comfortably alongside more ambitious bakes such as a stunning raspberry mille-feuille made with homemade puff pastry. You are never thrown in at the deep end; instead, you are invited to build confidence step by step, stretching your abilities without ever feeling out of your depth.

Stand-out recipes?

Caramelised Onion, Pea and Gruyère Quiche – a delicious combination of sweet caramelised onions, nutty Gruyère and crisp, buttery pastry. Perfect for lunch with a simple salad.
Seeded Cheese Soda Bread – a rich and cheesy loaf that is ready in under an hour. It is lovely served warm with homemade soup.
Muscovado Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce – a little more complex than a classic profiterole, but the deep caramel flavour in the crème diplomate is worth the effort.
Raspberry Mille-Feuille – Adlard’s version is an elevated version of the classic, which looks and tastes special. It takes a bit of time and planning, but the results are well worth it.

How often will I cook from this book?
If you are interested in baking, you are likely to cook the recipes in this book often. However, if you take the time to properly read the advice within its pages, you will actually realise that you are cooking from it almost every time you bake, applying Adlard’s advice and noticing his observations across a whole host of recipes.

Any negatives?
If what you want is a quick, no-frills baking book where you follow a list of steps without pausing to think, this isn’t it. The depth of information might feel overwhelming at first. But the writing always stays approachable, and the more you engage with it, the more it enriches your baking. It never feels pompous or needlessly complicated.

Should I buy the book?
If you are a home baker who wants to understand rather than just replicate, this book is transformative. It is ideal for curious cooks and confident home bakers seeking to elevate their creations. Beginners will benefit from the clear guidance; intermediates will enjoy the depth; advanced bakers will appreciate the intellectual rigour.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities with an interest in baking
Great for fans of: Cordon Bleu, Harold McGee, Leiths and Nicola Lamb
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: The Science of Baking by Matt Adlard £25.00, DK.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

The Sportsman at Home by Stephen Harris – Cookbook Review

Who is Stephen Harris?
There are some cooks whose influence is loud and declarative, and others whose impact seeps in slowly, shaping how we think about food without ever demanding attention. Stephen Harris belongs firmly to the latter camp. Self-taught, thoughtful and resolutely grounded, he took over The Sportsman — a salt-scrubbed pub on the Kent coast — in the late 1990s and, over time, turned it into one of Britain’s most quietly revered Michelin-starred restaurants. Awards followed, inevitably, but Harris has always seemed more interested in flavour than fuss, in the pleasures of eating well rather than the performance of it. His cooking is rooted in British food history and in the landscape that surrounds him, shaped by curiosity rather than trends. He writes much as he cooks: with clarity, restraint and an unshowy assurance earned over decades. The Sportsman at Home is his second cookbook (read our review of his first here).

What is The Sportsman at Home’s USP?
This is not restaurant cooking repackaged for domestic use, but home cooking approached with seriousness and care. Harris structures the book around ideas rather than courses, with chapters that reflect mood, memory and appetite: Assemblies, Tea, Dinner and Christmas sit alongside more reflective sections such as An Ode to Cream, Baking and Making, and Nostalgia. The effect is quietly immersive. Rather than prescribing how or when to cook, Harris invites you to respond to moments — a table of friends, an afternoon pause, a craving for something soothing or celebratory. Recipes are underpinned by personal anecdotes and food history, reinforcing his belief that the dishes we return to most often are those that carry meaning as well as flavour. It is a book that honours simplicity, not as restraint, but as a form of generosity.

What will I love?
The sense of ease that runs through the book. Harris’s recipes are deliberately simple, but never simplistic, and written in an informal, approachable voice that feels deeply personal. There is a relaxed generosity in the way he cooks and writes: dishes are offered as starting points rather than fixed ideas, with room to adapt, adjust and make them your own. He gives you the confidence to trust your instincts, to serve things when they feel right, to linger or pare back as you choose, encouraging a way of cooking that is intuitive rather than prescriptive. It’s this freedom, and the pleasure it brings, that makes The Sportsman at Home feel less like a set of instructions and more like an invitation to fall back in love with cooking for yourself and others.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Very much so. Harris writes with calm authority and reflective warmth, weaving in memories, observations and small details that linger. Like the best Diana Henry books, this is as much about atmosphere and appetite as it is about instruction. It is a book to enjoy reading slowly, dipping in and out at leisure, making notes of your favourite recipes to try.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Overall, no. This is a book firmly rooted in the British kitchen. Good butter, seasonal vegetables, decent cheese, and meat and fish from trusted sources form the backbone of the recipes. Quality matters, but rarity does not. Harris is clear-eyed about what makes ingredients worthwhile, describing them as “a rare upgrade in a world of plunging standards”, yet he is never showy or dogmatic. His emphasis is on care rather than perfection, and there is a reassuring absence of anything that feels overly cheffy or inaccessible. There is the odd mention of ingredients like truffle oil and hazelnut oil, but these are easy to find nowadays in large supermarkets or online.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The recipes are thoughtfully written, with Harris explaining not just how to do things, but why, which makes even the more complex dishes feel approachable. His tone is quietly companionable, as if he’s beside you in the kitchen, attentive to every detail, guiding rather than instructing, and encouraging you to cook with confidence. There is an emphasis on care and attention over speed, so nothing feels intimidating or inaccessible.

Stand out recipes?
There are many, for this is a book full of recipes you will want to return to again and again, but a few favourites include:

Baked Potato Fish Pie: comfort cooking at its finest. Familiar, deeply savoury and cleverly constructed, it marries the pleasures of a jacket potato with the generosity of a proper pie.
Ratatouille: a celebration of seasonal vegetables. Harris’s suggestion of adding beans makes it more substantial (I recommend splashing out on the jars from Bold Bean Co.), and smoky chorizo is a welcome optional flourish if you enjoy smoky flavours.
Cheese Soufflé: a classic, made all the more appealing by its rarebit-inspired sauce, which brings warmth and savoury depth without unnecessary complexity.
Vincisgrassi: an indulgent, layered Italian bake — often described as a cousin of lasagne — unapologetically rich and entirely worth the effort.
Chocolate Marquise: luxuriously intense, made even better by the inclusion of Harris’s cheat’s orange custard. A perfect dinner-party pudding.
Digestive Biscuits: it may seem like a faff, but these crisp, buttery biscuits are dangerously moreish. Be warned: shop-bought versions will never quite satisfy again.

How often will I cook from the book?
Often. This is a book for real life: Sunday lunches, midweek suppers, quiet baking afternoons and celebrations that don’t require spectacle. It rewards repetition and quietly becomes a companion in the kitchen, rather than just a reference on the shelf

Any negatives?
If you enjoy fast, highly stylised cooking or bold, adventurous global flavours, this book may feel restrained. Harris values subtlety, balance and tradition, which means it won’t appeal to everyone. But for those who enjoy thoughtful, approachable recipes that celebrate ingredients and seasonality, this is very much a strength rather than a limitation.

Should I buy the book?
Absolutely. The Sportsman at Home is a quietly confident, beautifully judged cookbook that rewards attention and repetition. It’s the kind of book that shapes how you cook, not just what you cook.

Cuisine: British – with European influences
Suitable for: Home cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Jane Grigson, Diana Henry and Nigel Slater
Cookbook review rating: five stars

Buy the book: The Sportsman at Home: Flavoursome Recipes for Nostalgic Eating, Quadrille, £30.00

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

You Can Cook Everything: A Contemporary Guide to Perfect Home Cooking Every Time by DK – Cookbook Review

What is the USP?
An encyclopaedic guide to everything you need to know to become a confident home cook, covering over 1,000 techniques, tips, and recipes in one lavishly photographed volume. There’s no particular cuisine or concept. The focus is on giving you the building blocks to master everything from stir-frying tofu and grilling steak, to baking focaccia and folding gyoza.

What will I love?
It’s all here — the classics, the comfort food, the global favourites — presented with generous step-by-step photography and precise instructions. Want to perfect a béchamel? Learn to butterfly a leg of lamb? Bake flawless cinnamon buns? You Can Cook Everything gives you the confidence to try it, with visual cues and no judgment. It demystifies the things many cookbooks gloss over, from how to make shortcrust pastry to when to season your steak.

There’s also a pleasing sense of reassurance. Although it feels more up-to-date than other ‘cookery bibles’ due to the inclusion of more modern ingredients, it isn’t trying to be trendy or edgy. It’s here to guide you towards better home cooking, at your own pace. Think of it as a contemporary kitchen manual designed for a generation who may not have learned to cook from family, but who are hungry to learn now.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes. It’s not a memoir-style book full of essays or storytelling, but it’s incredibly satisfying to flip through. Each page feels like a mini masterclass. If you love the rhythm of methodical, practical cookery, this is bedtime gold.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Unlikely. The book is global in scope, so you’ll find everything from curries to shakshuka, but recipes are tailored to what is realistically available in most UK supermarkets. There’s helpful advice on substitutions, and where a specialist ingredient is needed (e.g. tamarind paste, rice flour), it’s generally one that has become fairly mainstream. The book is about building confidence and teaching you flexibility, not sending you schlepping across town on a three-hour shop.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Exceptionally easy. The hallmark of DK books is their visual clarity, and You Can Cook Everything delivers in spades. Recipes are structured, well-spaced, and meticulously illustrated. There are visual walk-throughs for everything from kneading bread to filleting a fish, and plenty of troubleshooting tips to keep you on track. It’s ideal for anyone who wants to see how something should look at each stage. If you are someone who enjoys the reassurance of watching YouTube videos before trying a recipe, the chances are you will find You Can Cook deeply satisfying.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Spring Onion and Cheddar Soda Bread’ is a wonderfully comforting, cheesy twist on a classic, while the ‘Butternut Squash and Sage Gnocchi’ is perfect to make in autumn. On the sweet front, the ‘All‑In‑One Vegan Chocolate Cake’ is rich, fudgy and undetectable as a vegan bake, and the ‘Blueberry Streusel Muffins’ are a delicious way of elevating the fruity favourite with a sweet and crunchy topping.

How often will I cook from this book?
All the time. It’s a book you will reach for when trying something new or troubleshooting something familiar. The tone is quietly empowering: you don’t feel patronised, but you are never left to flounder. It’s perfect for beginner cooks, but even seasoned home cooks will enjoy the clarity and breadth. You might not cook everything in it, few of us have that kind of ambition, but it’s incredibly satisfying to know it’s all there.

Any negatives?
Not for what it sets out to do. Of course, if you are looking for a cookbook with an evocative or emotional narrative or a strong authorial voice, this won’t fill that void. It’s a clear, clean, and comprehensive reference book at heart. It also isn’t heavy on dietary notes (you won’t find extensive gluten-free or vegan adaptations), though there are plenty of naturally plant-based dishes.

Should I buy the book?
Absolutely, especially if you’re building or refreshing your cookbook shelf and want a reliable, go-to guide. You Can Cook Everything is a must-have modern-day cooking bible: practical, clear, and deeply satisfying to use. It will teach you to trust your instincts and become a better cook, one delicious step at a time.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities – a great place for beginners to start, while also filling in gaps/offering new inspiration for keen cooks.
Great for fans of: Delia Smith, Leiths and Samin Nosrat.
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: You Can Cook Everything: A Contemporary Guide to Perfect Home Cooking Every Time
£30.00, DK

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

The Food You Want to Eat by Thomas Straker – Cookbook Review

Who is Thomas Straker?
Thomas Straker is a chef and social media sensation from London, known for his viral “All Things Butter” series and his easy-going, ingredient-led cooking style. Formerly a private chef and alumni of some of London’s top restaurants, Straker blends fine dining flair with everyday accessibility. With over 3 million followers across platforms and a bustling restaurant in Notting Hill, Straker’s unpretentious, flavour-packed recipes are just as likely to appear in your feed as on your table. The Food You Want to Eat is his debut cookbook. Find him on instagram @thomas_straker.

What is The Food You Want to Eat’s USP?
Straker promises “no-faff food that tastes banging.” This is not a book of chef-y techniques or food you’ll cook once and never revisit. Instead, it’s about dishes that are genuinely craveable, with big flavour pay-offs and short, confident ingredient lists. The book blends Italian, Middle Eastern, British and modern European influences, and above all, celebrates good food done simply.

What will I love?
If you have ever watched one of his interviews or listened to him on a podcast, you will see that Straker writes like he talks – direct, cheeky, and deeply enthusiastic about good, seasonal produce. The recipes feel like an extension of his online presence: unpretentious, visually beautiful, and centred around real-world cooking. He’s all about layering flavour, using butter generously, and showing you how to make food that “slaps”.

Expect dishes like ‘Paccheri with Wild Garlic Pesto’, ‘Chicken Caesar Salad’, and ‘Spiced Tomato Tagliolini’ that feel fresh but still achievable on a weeknight. The photography is particularly striking. The shots are moody, natural and appetising, showing real food that’s been cooked and eaten, not styled within an inch of its life.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes, if you like falling asleep to the thought of buttery sauces and garlicky roast potatoes. Straker’s voice carries through in short, punchy intros to each recipe, but the writing isn’t wordy; more friend-in-the-pub vibes than lyrical food memoir. Still, the passion is there, and you might find yourself bookmarking entire sections in your head before you drift off.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not especially. Straker keeps things supermarket-friendly, and when he uses more niche ingredients (like ‘nduja or miso, although both are often easily available), they’re generally ones you will use again and again throughout the book. His cooking style thrives on a well-stocked larder of oils, vinegars, chilli pastes and, of course, butter (lots of butter). There’s also helpful guidance on swapping or omitting ingredients if needed.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. This is cooking stripped of ego. Most dishes are done in a few simple steps, and Straker’s confidence as a cook comes through in how little hand-holding there is (in a good way). These are recipes written for home cooks who want to trust their instincts and don’t want to be micromanaged.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘’Nduja and Mozzarella Flatbread’ is pure flavour with minimal effort, one of those recipes you make once and then crave weekly. There’s a touch of genius about the indulgent ‘Chilli Cheese Smash Burger’, while the ‘Chocolate Mousse’ might just ruin all other desserts for you. Don’t miss the ‘Roast Chicken, Butter Beans and Salsa Verde’ which will soon become a new staple (I recommend using Bold Beans butter beans).

How often will I cook from this book?
Frequently. The recipes are what they say on the tin; the food you actually want to eat. There’s no fluff, no filler. Expect easy weeknight pasta, juicy chicken traybakes, punchy salads, and crowd-pleasing sides. The food is adaptable, generous and built for sharing. It’s not one of those aspirational books you leave on a shelf. It’s one you’ll cook from midweek and again at the weekend, ideally with friends, wine, and a lot of napkins.

Any negatives?
If you are looking for particularly health-conscious or plant-based recipes, this probably won’t be for you. While there are veg-focused dishes, butter and meat do a lot of the heavy lifting. Also, if you like your cookbooks full of background essays, regional history or in-depth foodie musings, you will be disappointed.

Should I buy the book?
Absolutely. If you follow Straker online, this book delivers exactly what you would hope for: big, bold, confident recipes that are genuinely doable and deeply delicious. It is for cooks who want fuss-free inspiration without compromising on flavour.

Cuisine: Seasonal British/Modern European home cooking
Suitable for: Anyone from confident beginners up
Great for fans of: Anna Jones, Jeremy Lee and Marcus Wareing
Cookbook review rating: 5 stars
Buy this book: Food You Want To Eat , £25.00, Bloomsbury.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Fruitful by Sarah Johnson – Cookbook Review

Who is Sarah Johnson?
Sarah Johnson is an American-born pastry chef who trained under Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, before working at Skye Gyngell’s acclaimed Spring restaurant in London, and Heckfield Place in Hampshire. Johnson is known for her passion for using seasonal, sustainable ingredients, transforming them into innovative desserts and cakes that celebrate the best of what nature has to offer. Followers are treated to a collection of her stunning creations, and an inside glimpse of her farm-to-table approach to cooking, on her social media account @sarahjohnsoncooks. Fruitful is her debut cookbook.

What is Fruitful’s USP?
Described by Darina Allen as ‘a delicious celebration of ripe and seasonal produce’, Fruitful offers over 80 sweet and savoury recipes that showcase fruit in all its glory. Accompanying the recipes are a selection of pairing recommendations, flavour charts, interviews with regenerative farmers from around the world, and expert advice on mastering key techniques to help you make the most out of your produce.

What will I love?
The thought and detail that has gone into putting this book together shines through. Some books feel rather rushed, but this one is almost crafted like a work of art. The recipes are inventive and elegant, with almost all accompanied by stunning photographs which leave you hoping you have the ingredients so you can start cooking straight away.

Johnson is generous with her knowledge, sharing tips and tricks in the gentle manner of a friend leading you on a foodie journey. You can’t help but be inspired by page after page of sweet and savoury ideas that showcase the sheer versatility of fruit. Fruitful feels so much more than a cookbook, it is a joyous celebration of fruit and farming that will deepen your knowledge and broaden your culinary horizons.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Alongside the main introduction which details Johnson’s culinary journey and philosophy, each chapter and recipe also includes its own introduction. There are several pages dedicated to a detailed explanation of the various ‘Techniques for Cooking with Fruit’, breakout boxes on everything from how to curate a seasonal fruit bowl no matter what the time of year, to favourite flavour combinations. Weaved throughout the book are interviews with various producers who share fascinating insights into their work.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not really. Johnson offers variations throughout the book so you can adjust the recipes depending on the season and/or what you already have available. For example, stracciatella features in the ‘Pizza with Peaches, Stracciatella, Rocket and Pesto’, but burrata and mozzarella are suggested alternatives. The odd recipe uses ingredients like coconut flour (‘Coconut Rum Cake with Peaches in Syrup’) and peach leaves (Vin de Pêche’), but the vast majority rely on ingredients that aren’t too tricky to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There are a variety of simple and more complex recipes. Fuss-free ideas like ‘Blackcurrant Jelly’ and ‘Strawberry Sorbet’ sit alongside more involved recipes like the beautiful ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’. All are explained in a detailed yet accessible manner, clearly outlining the steps, with photos offering additional guidance where necessary.

Stand-out recipes?
You could be forgiven for thinking that the stand-out recipes would all be sweet, but the savoury options are equally impressive. The ‘Goats Cheese Soufflés with Spring Herb Salad and Roasted Cherries’ are inspired, while the ‘North African Lamb with Plums’ is a deliciously sweet, sticky and subtly spiced slow-cooked dish that is perfect for impressing loved ones. It is tricky to select just a few ‘stand-out’ sweet options, but the indulgent ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’, zesty ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ and sophisticated ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’ are not to be missed.

How often will I cook from this book?
This isn’t the kind of cookbook you will make something from every day of the week, but there is much to learn from the various charts and tables which will influence your cooking. Recipes cover everything from cakes, ice cream and jam to slow-roast meats, seasonal salads and sustainable fish. There is plenty of variety too, whether you want a teatime treat (‘Polenta Olive Oil Muffins with Blackberries’), a show stopping tart (‘Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts’ or a simple supper (‘Lemony Chicken Piccata’).

Any negatives?
Whilst not prohibitively extravagant, a few of the recipes are quite expensive to make due to the need to purchase certain liqueurs. Some recipes rely on a rather large number of eggs – ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’ uses 8 yolks and ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ calls for 8 whole eggs and 12 yolks. To her credit, Johnson acknowledges that the latter may seem excessive, but assures us they are necessary. Conscious of avoiding waste, she recommends saving the whites for her ‘Lemon Meringue Pie’ or ‘Meringues’ later in the book (as a side note, I would also heartily encourage you to try making your own ricciarelli, a deliciously soft Tuscan treat half-way between a macaron and an amaretti).

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a beautiful book which will inspire you to step outside of your comfort zone and cook more confidently, creatively and sustainably with seasonal fruit.

Cuisine: Seasonal British with Italian and French influences
Suitable for: Foodies and keen cooks who want to be more adventurous, and sustainable, with their cooking
Great for fans of: Alice Walters, Darina Allen and Skye Gygnell
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: Fruitful: Sweet and Savoury Fruit Recipes Inspired by Farms, Orchards and Gardens
£30.00, Kyle Books

Cook the Book:
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Sift by Nicola Lamb

Credit: Lin Pei Pei

reviewed by Sophie Knox Richmond

Who is Nicola Lamb? Nicola Lamb is a recipe developer and pastry chef famed for hosting sell-out pastry parties with her pop-bakery, Lark!, and collaborating with the likes of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Soft & Swirly and Toklas Bakery. She honed her skills at some of London and New York’s top bakeries including Happy Endings, Dominique Ansel and Little Bread Pedlar, and has seen her work featured in publications including The Guardian, Vogue and ES Magazine. She is also the author of Kitchen Projects (her weekly substack newsletter with over 50,000 dedicated subscribers) where she delves deep into the world of desserts, baking and pastries, sharing behind-the-scenes glimpses of the recipe development process and explaining the ins and outs of what, how and why a recipe works. From the lowdown on the ultimate chocolate chip cookies to how to craft beautifully buttery brioche (not forgetting more adventurous ideas like wild garlic bagels, pistachio gateau basque and caramelised white chocolate, malt and hazelnut spread), it is little wonder the Observer declared it an ‘incredible resource’. SIFT is her debut cookbook.

What is SIFT’s USP? Described as the ‘essential new baking bible’ SIFT promises to take the ‘fear out of failure’ with its collection of over 100 bakes. The first half of the book is focused on theory, featuring key elements and techniques, accompanied by illustrations and diagrams, designed to explore the hows and whys of baking. The second half is dedicated to the recipes, organised by how long you have available to bake, whether that be an afternoon (‘Bread and Butter Pudding with Caramel Mandarins’), a day (‘Rhubarb and Custard Crumb Cake) or weekend (‘Mocha Passionfruit Opera Cake’). Felicity Cloake summed it up perfectly as: ‘Everything you ever wanted to know about baking but were too afraid to ask.’

What will I love? This is the ultimate book for anyone remotely interested in baking no matter your skill level. It lays the foundations for novices to build on and professionals will find inspiring new ideas to develop their own recipes as well as reference points for substitutions.

The first half offers a fascinating look at the main ingredients at the heart of baking (e.g. flour, sugar, eggs and fat) before exploring the techniques that bring them to life (prepare to learn all about texture, colour and rising). The numerous diagrams and ‘technical overview’ help ensure the information remains clear and accessible. Each recipe highlights the techniques used so you can refer back to the theory chapters, identify links between different recipes, and work your way up to more complex ones as you grow in confidence.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, Lamb’s meticulous testing and flair for flavour means the recipes alone are enough to get you grabbing your apron. Expect original sweet and savoury cakes, tarts, biscuits, pies, breads and desserts. Classics like Victoria Sandwich Cake are transformed into ‘Roasted Strawberry Victoria Sponge’, and ‘Baked Lemon Custard Brûlée’ gives Crème Brûlée a zesty modern twist.

Is it good bedtime reading? Lamb’s highly readable writing, coupled with the handy diagrams is likely to leave you staying up into the early hours learning about the ins and outs of ‘starch gelatinisation in action’ and ‘coagulation of eggs’ (I promise you, it isn’t as weighty as it sounds). You can dip in and out at your leisure, focusing on the elements you wish to learn more about at any given time. All the recipes include a short introduction too.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients? Some fruit purées and pistachio paste might need to be bought online unless you want to make your own (a recipe is included for the latter). Dried hibiscus flowers may also need hunting down but plenty of other sorbet flavours are given instead.

How easy are the recipes to follow? The book is designed for all abilities. Not all the recipes are easy but Lamb has gone to great lengths to ensure they are achievable and the processes are as clear as possible. Each recipe contains a time plan and specifies the equipment and techniques used. There are helpful notes on what to look for at each stage as well as useful tips, shortcuts and instructions on how to prep in advance and/or reheat. It couldn’t be more user-friendly if it tried.

Stand-out recipes? ‘Brown Butter Banana Cookies’ are quick, easy and incredibly moreish, ‘Ricotta, Marmalade and Hazelnut Chocolate-chip Cake’ is a must-make for chocolate-orange fans, and ‘Lemon Basque Cheesecake with Sticky Lemons’ is a beautifully balanced pud for any occasion. Banoffee-lovers shouldn’t miss the ‘Banana Pudding Pie’, and the ‘Tiramichoux’ are utterly inspired and worth the effort. On the savoury side, ‘Olive Oil Brie-oche with Roasted Grapes, Honey and Thyme’ sounds particularly delicious.

How often will I cook from this book? There is something for every mood, occasion and season so you could easily find yourself baking from this all year round, whether you are making a birthday cake for a loved one, a teatime treat to curb mid-afternoon cravings, or a show-stopping dessert for a special occasion. There’s a plethora of savoury delights ideal for lunches and suppers too.

Any negatives? None. SIFT is designed to be the ultimate baking and pastry bible and Lamb has well and truly nailed the brief.

Should I buy the book? A resounding yes. Whether you want to delve deep into the science of the Maillard reaction, or simply want to up your baking game, SIFT is an exceptional book and a must-have addition to your cookbook collection.

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: SIFT: The Elements of Great Baking
£30.00, Ebury Press

Cook from this book
Secret Chocolate Cake
Miso Walnut Cookies
Cheese and Pickle Scones

The Food Substitutions Bible by David Joachim

The Food Substitutions Bible is a hefty reference volume offering over 8000 ideas for smart replacements useful on those occasions when you’ve misjudged the contents of your cupboards. Need something to sit in for those fennel seeds you forgot to pick up in the weekend shop? Simply flick through to ‘F’ and discover that while anise seeds are your ideal swap, dill seeds will work in a pinch to offer a slightly milder flavour, or caraway seeds, if you’re happy to forgo some sweetness.

This is the third edition of David Joachim’s book, which first came out in 2005, before being revised in 2010. The way we eat has changed significantly in the past decade, and the new additions here reflect that. From freekeh to katsuobushi, Joachim acknowledges the ongoing global shift in the industry.

But the focus isn’t strictly on base-level ingredients – there are recommendations for tools that might stand in for a blowtorch, a steamer, or various specialist pots and pans. Folks with cookbooks that are more ambitious than their local supermarket shelves will find plenty of use in the suggestions of more readily accessible equivalents to elk, squirrel and crocodile.

There’s still room for improvements in future editions, though: having been diagnosed as coeliac last year, I’m still trying to get my head around substitutions for a long list of ingredients I have been surprised to have robbed from my kitchen (Marmite! Soy sauce! English mustard!) While each of these are addressed in some way in the book, none of them face the gluten question head on. This feels like a waste when the very concept of the book offers so much promise to those suffering from any number of dietary restrictions; those with nut allergies will be among those who might also feel a little underserved in some areas.

You should buy The Food Substitutions Bible for a handy point of reference while cooking. Yes, Google exists, but when you’re deep into a recipe and juggling several pans at once it can be a real faff to discern which citation-thirsty suggestion will actually work in practice. Even in the first week in my house, Joachim came to my rescue on two different occasions, suggesting simple replacements that saved dinner. For that alone, this is a purchase worth making.

Cuisine: Global
Suitable for: Beginner and confident home cooks as well as curious foodies and professional chefs
Cookbook Review Rating: Four stars

Buy this book: The Food Substitutions Bible

Review written by Stephen Rötzsch Thomas a Nottingham-based writer. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @srotzschthomas

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay: A Story of Excellence by Gordon Ramsay

What’s the USP? A follow up of sorts to Ramsay’s 2007 book Three Star Chef that focuses on the food and story of his three Michelin starred flagship restaurant Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, London. Recipes are organised by seasons, each with an introduction to the key ingredients available at the time of year. Interspersed is Ramsay’s anecdotal history of the restaurant. As such, the book is aimed at professional chefs and those who want a memento of what might possibly be a meal of a lifetime and be of less interest to the audience for Ramsay’s usual quick and easy-style cookbooks such as Ramsay in 10: Delicious Recipes Made in a Flash.

Who is the author? That bad tempered shouty bloke from off the telly, that’s who. Born in Scotland and brought up in Stratford-upon-Avon, he is a former aspiring professional footballer turned most-famous-chef-currently-on-the-planet. Trained by some of the leading chefs of the time including Albert Roux, Marco Pierre White, Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon, Ramsay opened his first restaurant Aubergine in Fulham in 1993 where he won two Michelin stars. The third came when he opened Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in 1998. His restaurant empire currently spans the UK, France, the US, Dubai and Singapore and encompasses everything from the two Michelin starred Le Pressoir d’Argent in Bordeaux to a string of Street Pizza and Street Burger restaurants. Ramsay is a familiar figure on TV both sides of the Atlantic with shows including Hell’s Kitchen, Masterchef, Masterchef Jr., 24 Hours To Hell & Back, Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted and Gordon, Gino And Fred.

The book’s co author is Restaurant Gordon Ramsay Chef Patron Matt Abé who has worked for Ramsay for 16 years. Born in Australia, he worked at Aria Restaurant in Sydney and Vue du Monde in Melbourne before moving to the UK at the age of 21 to work as chef de partie at Claridge’s. He then moved to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, working his way up from chef de partie to his current position overseeing the whole restaurant.

Are the recipes easy to follow? Well, sort of. Let’s take ‘Veal Sweetbread, Toasted Grains, Ajo Blanco, Malt’ as an example. First you’ll need to make your veal stock and chicken stock (separate recipes for both are included in the ‘basics’ section). You’ll need 4kg of veal bones and 3kg of chicken wings and necks and 24 hours during which you’ll be regularly skimming the stocks. The recipe fails to explain how you’ll get any sleep during this process so you’ll have to figure that one for yourselves.

Anyway, once you’ve had a nap, it’s time to get the malt jus on. You’ll just need a kilo of veal trimmings for this and fair amount of time for browning and reducing and passing. Once you’ve got your beautiful and extremely expensive sauce, it’s time to deep fry some wild rice and amaranth grains to puff them up for garnish. The cost of living crisis means this alone is an horrendously expensive process, but it’ll be worth it.

Once you’ve got those boxed up, all you need to do is trim 2kg of veal heart sweetbreads (they were all out at Asda but I’m sure you can track them down at your local butcher. Do you have one of those? Lucky you) removing the membrane with your razor sharp Japanese-style chef’s knife. Then just fry them up and top with some honey glaze (there’s a separate recipe for that), your puffed grains plus some sobacha and malted oats you just happen to have in the cupboard, along with all those allium buds and flowers you were looking for something to do with. Then you pour over your ajo blanco (sorry, didn’t I mention it that before? Yes, that’s another thing you need to make) and your malt jus and job’s a good’un.

It’s at this point you begin to realise why dinner at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay costs £180 a head just for the food. So to answer the question, the recipes are pretty straightforward, if you take each individual component by itself. But it’s the amount of components, the number of ingredient, the time involved and the skill and equipment required (you’ll need a Vitamix if you are going to follow the recipe to the letter and achieve the sort of velvety texture Abé does in the restaurant for example) that’s the issue.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients? There are a number of dishes such as canapes and amuse-bouche where you will find it impossible as there are no recipes, just images and a description. This sadly includes the restaurant’s fantastic Parker House rolls. If anything would have been worth the £60 cost of the book it would be a recipe for that bread, one of the highlights of a recent meal I was lucky enough to enjoy at RGR.

While many of the ingredients for most of the dishes in the book are readily available in some form or another, there are quite a few instances of micro herbs/foraged flowers, herbs and leaves and the sort of powders associated with molecular gastronomy (although the food in the book is very far removed from that) being required. So you’ll need for example to track down mustard frills, chickweed leaves and three cornered garlic flowers for a asparagus and morel starter, and some Ultratex (and a Pacojet) to make a herb puree for a cod and Jersey Royal dish. However, it would only take a little thought and ingenuity for an experienced cook (and certainly a professional chef) to work around these requirements without straying too far from the original intention of the dish.

How often will I cook from this book? While this is at heart a coffee table book, it could also have a useful life in your kitchen. If you are a home cook, most of the complete dishes in the book will be quite a serious undertaking. However, many of the individual components are fairly straightforward, so you might make the saffron emulsion (mayo) that accompanies a crab and melon mousse and that’s flavoured with paprika and Espelette chilli powder and serve it with some simply grilled fish.

Does it make for a good bedtime read? This is the story of the restaurant as well as a recipe book so there’s a good amount to read. This is very much Ramsay’s version of events however and key players like Marcus Wareing, Angela Hartnett, Mark Sargeant, Jason Atherton and Mark Askew (none of whom still work for Ramsay) get only a passing mention. There are a few juicy nuggets like the fact Ramsay was paid £200k for the Boiling Point documentary series and that he applies ‘ruthless margins on wine’ (now you know the other reason why your dinner is so expensive). If you’ve read Playing With Fire or Humble Pie, Ramsay ‘s two autobiographies you won’t learn much new here but it’s an enjoyable read nevertheless. There are also some interesting observations on seasonal ingredients including the fact that lobsters are never cooked whole at the restaurant because each part cooks at a different rate.

Should I buy the book? The book looks a million dollars, especially the fantastic food shots by John Carey, is a decent read and has some great, if daunting recipes. Ramsay fans, professional chefs and ambitious home cooks will find much to enjoy and inspire here. What it’s definitely not is a practical everyday cookbook, but there are plenty of those already. Perhaps a book you would gift rather than buy for yourself.

Cuisine: Modern British
Suitable for: For professional chefs
Cookbook Review Rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay: A Story of Excellence by Gordon Ramsay

Chef’s cookbook prize draw for Brain Tumour Charity (UK mainland only)

Chef James cook book raffle for Brain Tumour Charity from Natural Selection Design on Vimeo.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: THIS PRIZE DRAW IS OPEN TO UK MAINLAND RESIDENTS ONLY

THE PRIZE
James is a talented chef who has spent his life pursuing his passion for food.

In 2022 James was diagnosed with a terminal brain tumour, which has given him a new perspective on life. Despite his illness, he has remained determined to make the most of his time and has decided to auction his collection of cookery books to raise funds for the Brain Tumour Association.

The cookery books in James’ collection are his pride and joy, and he has collected them over 20 years in the industry. The 150+ books represent a lifetime of learning and exploration in the world of food and butchery.

His treasured collection includes books from the world’s best restaurants and chefs, and it is a testament to his dedication to his craft.

They range from unique and out of print books to accessible books, to say that from new to replace is a £4k + collection. The El Bulli collection alone is retailed at £500 and Sergiology book also retails over £500.

Since the diagnosis of a grade 4 inoperable brain stem tumour, James has discovered that brain tumour research receives only around 1% funding. The importance of raising funds for the Brain Tumour Association has never been more important, and he is auctioning his beloved collection to help others in need. It is a selfless act that speaks to James’ character and his desire to make a positive impact in the world, even in the face of adversity.

James hopes that his contribution will help others who are also affected by brain tumours, and he is grateful for the opportunity to make a difference in this way. He has met amazing people who also want to help, and he hopes that with more available funds, they will be able to help more people in the future.

Find out how to enter the draw by clicking here The draw is open to UK mainland residents only and closes 14th April 2023 at 2:46pm. Full terms and conditions are here.

This is of course an amazing opportunity to acquire an incredible collection of cookbooks, but more importantly to support a truly altruistic act that benefits a worthy organisation, the Brain Tumour Charity who are dedicated to ‘a drive to improve services and outcomes for everyone affected by a brain tumour’.

Follow James on Twitter @chefjamesfpl and Instagram @jamescon198

Lune by Katie Reid

Lune: Croissants All Day, All Night – to which is there any other answer than, yes please? Making croissants is something I’ve always thought best left to the professionals. It’s a fine art and while not rocket science, there’s definitely crossover: one requires precision, delicacy and an intricate understanding of weight and heat distribution; the other is rocket science. Kate Reid, owner and author of Lune, originally worked as an aerospace engineer for the Williams Formula 1 Team before a trip to Paris convinced her to apply her skillset to making croissants. Over a decade later, Lune has multiple venues in Australia, queues of people willing to wait hours to try their products and as of last year, a debut cookbook.

Reid has talked at length at how the two seemingly distinct career paths have benefited one another. She compares Lune to a “croissant Formula 1 team”, being driven by a need for an experimental and results driven approach in the pursuit of excellence. The book wears its engineering influences quite literally on its sleeve: starting with the croissant-shaped spaceship logo, a sleek black and reflective silver design, high contrast photography and a rigorously assembled ingredients list and methodology. Recipes are broadly listed by what time of day to have them, from Breakfast to Dinner, all the times in between and interspersed with personal stories of establishing Lune.

The golden thread throughout the book is the croissant dough. Once made, it can be applied to numerous different pastry recipes ranging from croissants, cruffins, danishes, escargots and more. Alongside the classics, are inventive recipes like Chocolate Plum Sake Danishes or Beef Bourguignon croissants. The book gets this out of the way early and it’s only fair I should too: you will not be travelling at speed. It will take at least 48 hours over the course of three days and a decent amount of effort to produce a single batch. Croissant casuals need not apply.

Day one requires a morning making a poolish and an afternoon bringing the dough together. Day two is lamination, the process of layering butter and pastry that gives croissants their flaky layers and if laminated in the morning, can then be shaped in the evening. Day three calls for a 2am start (spoiler: I did not get up at 2am), proving the croissants for five hours before baking to have with breakfast.

It is as time consuming as the book assures you it is but the dough recipe is so exacting, with photographs accompanying every step and measurements to the centimetre and gram there is little scope to go wrong. It is entirely worth the effort. I bake mine at a much more reasonable 1pm, filling the house with croissant pheromones that continually entice us back into the kitchen to check on their progress. The results are ethereal wonders, so lovingly formed and delicate I consider making an application for a UNESCO heritage listing to preserve them forever. They taste even better, as if they descended fully formed, a divine aura sailing them gracefully into my mouth.

Thankfully, the dough recipe returns enough for five batches and leaves plenty of opportunity to explore other pastries. The Cacio e Pepe Escargot is as lavish as its namesake. Danishes filled with strawberries and a burnt miso caramel custard are a rollercoaster of sweet and savoury. Cruffins are surprisingly easy to assemble and, in less of a shock, absolutely magnificent when filled with a peanut butter crème pâtissière and jam.

There are some small barriers to entry, investments in both time and equipment being examples. If you’re already a home baker, you’ll likely have the essentials to make the dough but for certain recipes, you’ll need more bespoke items like small, square silicone moulds for danish pastries. However, I didn’t have some of these and used the best equivalent I could find. The results were, admittedly, misshapen but no less delicious for it.

One of the many joys of this book is its laser focus. All of the recipes start from the same place – the croissant dough – which you’re going to learn to do very well and then apply it in an abundance of wildly inventive recipes. It’s refreshing to be encouraged to hone a craft, that yes, this is a practice of patience and discipline but it’s worth doing well. And once mastered, it can be taken in any creative direction you like – the sky’s the limit as they say, though I think Lune makes me want to shoot for the moon.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Confident home cooks/professional chefs
Cookbook Review Rating: Five stars

Buy the book: Lune: Croissants All Day, All Night by Katie Read
£28, Hardie Grant Books

Review written by Nick Dodd a Leeds-based pianist, teacher and writer. Contact him at www.yorkshirepiano.co.uk

Lune has been shortlisted for the Andre Simon Food and Drink Book Awards 2022