Dear reader of cookbookreview.blog, I have a confession. I’m not that into ramen. I know this isn’t a universally shared opinion but I’ve never had a bowl of ramen that has inspired the awe it’s meant to. The kind that true devotees hunch over steaming bowls of broth like medieval alchemists and whisper in hushed reverence about the exact marination time for soy eggs.
Not that Ramen: 80 Easy Noodle Bowls and Broths was designed to convince this particular chump of the virtues of a globally loved dish but Makiko Sano does present a compelling argument in a punchy, colourful and enlightening book. Although between her other cookbooks, a Japanese restaurant, sushi school and catering company I don’t think she was expecting to add “unwitting couples counsellor” between ramen and I to her overflowing CV.
The book opens with an unexpectedly fascinating history of ramen, one of innovation through necessity, clandestine noodle traders and a burst in popularity in the years after World War II. To co-opt a saying: when life gives you an abundance of wheat flour in postwar aid shipments and the worst rice harvest in decades, make ramen. Due to its inherent versatility and Momofuku Ando’s instant ramen noodles, we now have infinite versions of the noodley, soupy thing we’re all familiar with across the globe.
As Sano details, traditional ramen follows four building blocks: a highly seasoned sauce, the tare, which forms a base layer upon which the second element, the broth, is poured over. The noodles follow and finally a variety of toppings layered on top. I am always appreciative of a cookbook that teaches not only what to cook but how to cook and in theory, you could go no further than here. Make the classic tares, broths and tinker with the recommended toppings list forevermore.
However life is for living and after these more traditional dishes follow a number of varied, sometimes weird, sometimes wonderful but always easy ramen recipes. It’s a fun book to flick through. Bright, well organised and recipes that are incredibly concise with a succinct historical context or introduction. Many of the basic Japanese ingredients won’t be hard to come by but a trip will be needed to an international supermarket or online stockist for ingredients like bonito flakes, nori and saké.
Despite being variations on the same theme, there’s admirable scope. The chapters are arranged by protein, vegetables and a final “Instant Ramen Plus” chapter, an anything goes section that feels like the last day of school, sticking twos up at the Head of Geography, breaking into food tech and concocting a ramen of tinned hotdogs and cheese.
While that last dish wasn’t for me, there are plenty that were. The Vegetable Garden Ramen, various vegetables floating atop a white broth made with soy milk and the Mushroom Miso Ramen were two of my favourites, both eaten when feeling a little under the weather and warming me from the ground up. Another highlight was the Chilli Miso Ramen and delicious as it was, it helps to have a pack of tissues nearby if you inadvertently double the amount of gochujang paste. The Tahini Ramen (made better with its Japanese cousin neri goma if you can get it) was rich and nutty and only slightly less morish than the Coconut Curry Ramen.
Much of the complexity of flavour in ramen and the time taken making it comes from the broth. However much of the ease in this book relies on using a broth made from stock granules. The book does help you to make your own and I would encourage you to do so. It’s an easy kitchen task: plonk meat or vegetable gubbins in a pot of boiling water, leave for a bit, strain then freeze in smaller portions. Failing that, buy the best stock you can afford in gelatinous pots or pre-made pouches. Without it, the simpler recipes become more reminiscent of drinking Oxo with a few ingredients chucked in.
The scope of the book means it’s easy to find something to appreciate. Ramen newbies will have the most joy as Sano removes much of the complexity of the dish in an endearing and uncomplicated way. I’m yet to be converted to a ramen fanatic but I appreciate the endeavour. Perhaps by the time I’ve cooked all eighty, I’ll see the light.
Cuisine: Japanese
Suitable for: Beginners
Cookbook Review Rating: Four stars
Buy This Book: Ramen by Makiko Sano
£18.99, OH! Life
Review written by Nick Dodd, a Leeds-based pianist and writer.
cookbookreview.blog 