For curious foodies

One Bake, Two Ways by Ruby Bhogal – Cookbook Review

Who is Ruby Bhogal?
A former Bake-off finalist who has gone on to become a successful food writer (her work has been featured in publications such as Waitrose magazine, GQ and the Sunday Times) and TV chef. She also has her own substack newsletter, The Last Bite, and regularly keeps her followers up-to-date with her latest baking creations on social media @rubybhogal.

What’s the USP
Each of the 50 recipes is presented twice: first in its traditional form, then with a ‘veganised’ plant-based alternative. It is undoubtedly a clever and inclusive concept, promising to help teach you the skills to cater for everyone’s needs, regardless of dietary preferences.

What will I love?
Bhogal’s energy and enthusiasm for a start. Each recipe exudes her warmth and personality, from the chatty introductions to the friendly hints and tips included in each step. It feels like you are baking with a friend at your side.

There are also plenty of unique recipes that will encourage you to try new flavours and expand your baking repertoire. Sometimes dessert and baking books can feel a bit repetitive when you come across yet another for something like a tiramisu, but Bhogal offers genuinely new and exciting twists on classics (in this case, offering a ‘Malt Milk Tiramisu with Milk Chocolate’), that aren’t too outlandish.

It is a brilliant concept. Even if you have no interest in vegan cooking, you can still enjoy 50 new baking recipes. Yet, if you, or someone in your family, follows a vegan diet or needs to eat dairy-free, One Bake, Two Ways shows that it is perfectly possible to make something that is every bit as achievable and delicious.

Is it good bedtime reading?
While there aren’t any long essays, Bhogal’s friendly writing style makes the introductions a joy to read. You could happily browse through the pages marvelling out the array of bakes on offer, and the nifty tips and tricks to make them vegan-friendly, before drifting off into a sweet slumber.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
For a book which is 50% vegan, there is a distinct lack of unusual ingredients (phew!). Plant-based milk, butter and spread are all widely available, perhaps the trickiest thing to get hold of is vegan white chocolate but it is available online.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Some of the recipes are more faffy than others (e.g. the ‘Chocolate Wagon Wheels with Raspberry Jam and Hazelnut Biscuit’), but there are plenty of simpler options for when you want a quick and easy bake. As mentioned above, Bhogal’s directions are consistently clear and accessible throughout so that even the more complex recipes seem achievable.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Self-saucing Sticky Toffee Pud Tray-Cake with Stem Ginger and Chocolate’ is everything you want in a comforting winter pud, whilst the ‘Victoria Sponge Loaf with Roasted Strawberries and Mint’ is a must-make during the summer months when strawberries are in season. Meanwhile, chocoholics won’t be able to resist a slice of the unbelievably moist ‘Chocolate Fudge Sponge with Milk Chocolate Fudge Frosting’, and don’t miss the beautifully buttery ‘Cranberry, Apricot and Almond Couronne with Apricot Glaze’ which is guaranteed to impress friends and family.

How often will I cook from this book?
There are bakes for every occasion so, if you are a regular baker, there is enough to pique your interest and keep you busy. The only thing to bear in mind is that a few of the recipes call for some more expensive ingredients.

Any negatives?
The majority of the recipes include a modern twist on a classic, so if you are a staunch traditionalist who is horrified at the idea of adding chai to your custard creams or swapping the classic dark chocolate Viennese whirls for the more tropical ‘Passion Fruit Viennese Fingers with White Chocolate and Coconut Ganache’, then this probably isn’t the book for you.

It would also be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head. This is especially important for baking so you can gauge if it is going to be an ‘all-day’ recipe requiring resting, chilling, proving etc. or one that can be whipped up in an afternoon. Finally, not every recipe has a photo which may bother some more than others.

Should I buy the book?
If you love trying innovative new flavours in your bakes and/or are curious about dabbling in more plant-based baking, this is most certainly the book for you.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill, Phillip Khoury and Max La Manna
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: One Bake, Two Ways
£26.00, Pavillion

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts recipe by Sarah Johnson

Marsala is a fortified wine from Sicily that was once popular among chefs and wine enthusiasts alike. However, excessive production cheapened its quality over time, leading to a decline in its reputation. Fortunately, a select few winemakers continue to produce marsala in its authentic form, capturing its deep and mellow character with notes of muscovado and sun-dried fruit. If you haven’t any already, now may be the time to add a bottle to your pantry. In this recipe, sweet marsala is used in a sabayon (or zabaglione in Italian). Both creamy and light, this boozy custard is traditionally served with summer fruits. But I have opted to serve it with a chocolate tart and toasted hazelnuts.

SERVES 10–12

Ingredients:
For the chocolate tart shell:
150g (5½oz) unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
90g (3¼oz) icing sugar, sifted
1 egg
½ teaspoon salt
200g (7oz) plain flour
50g (1¾oz) cocoa powder

For the chocolate filling:
530g (1lb 3oz) good-quality chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into pieces
3 egg yolks
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
270ml (9½fl oz) whole milk
1 teaspoon salt

For the marsala sabayon:
190ml (6½fl oz) double cream
7 egg yolks
80g (2¾oz) sugar
150ml (5oz) sweet marsala
150g (5½oz) hazelnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped, to serve

For the chocolate dough, butter the bottom and sides of a 25cm (10in) fluted tart tin, and line the base with baking parchment. Place the butter and icing sugar into a mixing bowl and beat until smooth. Add the egg and salt and continue beating until the egg is absorbed.

Sift in the flour and cocoa powder and mix until everything comes together. The dough may feel dry at this stage, but the crust will have a nicer texture when the dough is cooked.

Using your hands, press the dough as evenly as possible into the prepared tart tin. Place a piece of baking parchment over the dough and use the back of a measuring cup (a small glass will also do) to gently press the dough into a smooth even layer. Press the dough up the sides of the tart tin, then trim the excess dough, reserving it for patching up any cracks that may form during baking. Place in the refrigerator until firm.

Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3.

Prick the bottom of the tart using a fork, then place it into the oven. After 7 minutes, you may notice the sides of the tart shell beginning to slouch. Gently press a flatbottomed measuring cup around the edges where the dough has shrunk and encourage it back up the side of the tart tin. Continue to bake for about 20 minutes until the tart shell is cooked all the way through. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

For the chocolate filling, prepare two large heatproof bowls – add the chocolate to one and the egg yolks to the other. Fill a saucepan with water and bring it to the boil. Remove it from the heat and place the bowl of chocolate on top, ensuring it doesn’t come into contact with the water. Allow the chocolate to melt gradually. Meanwhile, in a separate heavy-based saucepan, combine the double cream, milk and salt. Place it over medium heat. Put your bowl of egg yolks nearby, with a towel underneath to secure it.

When the milk mixture begins to simmer, take it off the heat and slowly ladle it into the yolks, stirring constantly with a whisk. Once you have incorporated all the milk into the yolks, return the mixture to the saucepan and place it over a low heat. Stir constantly until the custard thickens slightly and coats the back of a spoon.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into the chocolate and let it sit over the hot water for 1 minute. Remove from heat and wipe the water from underneath the bowl. Place a clean, dry spatula into the centre of the chocolate and, using small circular motions, begin to emulsify the chocolate. Once the mixture begins to look glossy, continue to bring in more chocolate and custard, all the while using small circular motions to emulsify the chocolate. Gentle stirring will prevent unwanted air bubbles. If the mixture begins to split, your chocolate may be too hot. However, a small splash of cold milk stirred into the chocolate should bring it back to its glossy texture. Scrape the sides and base of the bowl with spatula every so often. Once the chocolate is properly emulsified, pour into the prepared tart shell and shimmy the tart back and forth to evenly spread the filling. Place in a cool part of the kitchen for 2–3 hours until the filling is set.

For the marsala sabayon, take a small mixing bowl and whip the double cream until the whisk leaves tracks in the cream, stopping before soft peaks form. Chill the whipped cream in the refrigerator until needed. Prepare a large bowl with ice-cold water, filling it about one-third of the way up then set aside. Bring a pan of water to the boil and place the egg yolks into another large heatproof bowl. Sit this on top of the pan of boiling water. Whisk the yolks until they are warm to the touch, then add the sugar and whisk vigorously until the yolks turn pale and thick. Add the marsala and continue whisking until the custard is doubled in size. Notice how the sabayon changes; the bubbles will become smaller and the whisk will leave trails as the mixture thickens and becomes glossy. Remove from the heat and place over the bowl of ice-cold water. Continue whisking until completely chilled. Remove the cream from the refrigerator and whisk to soft peaks. Fold one-third of the sabayon into the cream, then fold in the rest. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours until you are ready to use.

Serve slices of the tart with generous spoonfuls of chilled sabayon and a scattering of toasted hazelnuts.

Book credit: Fruitful by Sarah Johnson. Published by Kyle Books. Photography: Patricia Niven.

Cook more from this book
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums

Read the review: click here
Buy this book:
Fruitful by Sarah Johnson
£30, Kyle Books

North African Lamb with Plums recipe by Sarah Johnson

Plums add brightness and a touch of sweetness to this sticky, spice-scented lamb. Serve with steamed couscous or rice and something green like slow-cooked chard.

SERVES 6–8

Ingredients:
1.2–1.5kg (2lb 10oz–3lb 5oz) lamb shoulder, on the bone, excess fat trimmed
2 teaspoons cumin seeds 2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
3cm (1¼in) piece of ginger, finely chopped
olive oil
2 medium onions, sliced
10 medium plums
1 cinnamon stick salt and pepper

For the chermoula:
1cm (½in) piece of ginger, peeled and diced
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 garlic clove
½ teaspoon toasted cumin seeds
2 slices Lemon Confit in Oil (see page 41) finely chopped, or the zest of 1 lemon
juice of ½ lemon
25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley
50g (1¾oz) fresh coriander

Lightly score the top of the lamb shoulder, then season with salt and pepper. Toast the cumin and coriander seeds until fragrant, then place them in a mortar with the garlic and pound into a paste. Add the red chilli, ginger and a tablespoon or two of olive oil and mix together. Rub the marinade over the lamb shoulder, then cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove from the refrigerator 2 hours before cooking and allow it to come to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3.

Scatter the onions over the base of a roasting tray. Slice four of the plums, removing the stones, then add them to the tray with the cinnamon. Place the lamb on top, skin side up, and add 400ml (14fl oz) of water. Cover loosely with a piece of foil and roast for 2 hours. Flip the lamb and cook, covered for another 2 hours. Remove the foil and turn the lamb once more, so the skin side is facing up. Add a splash of more water if the tray looks dry, then place it back into the oven, uncovered, and increase the temperature to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Continue to cook for 1–1½ hours, basting every 30 minutes or so, until the skin is crisp and the meat is falling from the bone. Remove from the oven, transfer the lamb to a board and allow it to rest in a warm place, loosely covered, for at least 30 minutes.

Increase the temperature to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7 and halve and stone the remaining six plums. Place them into a ceramic casserole. Strain the juices from the roasting tray, then pour enough juice over the plums to come up one-third of the way. Reserve the leftover juices. Roast in the oven for 10–15 minutes until plums are soft and slightly caramelized around the edges.

For the chermoula, place the ginger, red chilli, garlic, cumin and a pinch of salt in a mortar and pound into a paste. Transfer to a bowl and add the confit lemon and lemon juice. Finely chop the parsley and coriander, then fold into the other ingredients and add the oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. To serve, carve the lamb into portions and arrange on a platter. Top with roasted plums, drizzle over any remaining juices, and accompany with a bowl of chermoula.

Book credit: Fruitful by Sarah Johnson. Published by Kyle Books. Photography: Patricia Niven.

Cook more from this book
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake

Read the review: click here
Buy this book:
Fruitful by Sarah Johnson
£30, Kyle Books

Fruitful by Sarah Johnson – Cookbook Review

Who is Sarah Johnson?
Sarah Johnson is an American-born pastry chef who trained under Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, before working at Skye Gyngell’s acclaimed Spring restaurant in London, and Heckfield Place in Hampshire. Johnson is known for her passion for using seasonal, sustainable ingredients, transforming them into innovative desserts and cakes that celebrate the best of what nature has to offer. Followers are treated to a collection of her stunning creations, and an inside glimpse of her farm-to-table approach to cooking, on her social media account @sarahjohnsoncooks. Fruitful is her debut cookbook.

What is Fruitful’s USP?
Described by Darina Allen as ‘a delicious celebration of ripe and seasonal produce’, Fruitful offers over 80 sweet and savoury recipes that showcase fruit in all its glory. Accompanying the recipes are a selection of pairing recommendations, flavour charts, interviews with regenerative farmers from around the world, and expert advice on mastering key techniques to help you make the most out of your produce.

What will I love?
The thought and detail that has gone into putting this book together shines through. Some books feel rather rushed, but this one is almost crafted like a work of art. The recipes are inventive and elegant, with almost all accompanied by stunning photographs which leave you hoping you have the ingredients so you can start cooking straight away.

Johnson is generous with her knowledge, sharing tips and tricks in the gentle manner of a friend leading you on a foodie journey. You can’t help but be inspired by page after page of sweet and savoury ideas that showcase the sheer versatility of fruit. Fruitful feels so much more than a cookbook, it is a joyous celebration of fruit and farming that will deepen your knowledge and broaden your culinary horizons.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Alongside the main introduction which details Johnson’s culinary journey and philosophy, each chapter and recipe also includes its own introduction. There are several pages dedicated to a detailed explanation of the various ‘Techniques for Cooking with Fruit’, breakout boxes on everything from how to curate a seasonal fruit bowl no matter what the time of year, to favourite flavour combinations. Weaved throughout the book are interviews with various producers who share fascinating insights into their work.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not really. Johnson offers variations throughout the book so you can adjust the recipes depending on the season and/or what you already have available. For example, stracciatella features in the ‘Pizza with Peaches, Stracciatella, Rocket and Pesto’, but burrata and mozzarella are suggested alternatives. The odd recipe uses ingredients like coconut flour (‘Coconut Rum Cake with Peaches in Syrup’) and peach leaves (Vin de Pêche’), but the vast majority rely on ingredients that aren’t too tricky to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There are a variety of simple and more complex recipes. Fuss-free ideas like ‘Blackcurrant Jelly’ and ‘Strawberry Sorbet’ sit alongside more involved recipes like the beautiful ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’. All are explained in a detailed yet accessible manner, clearly outlining the steps, with photos offering additional guidance where necessary.

Stand-out recipes?
You could be forgiven for thinking that the stand-out recipes would all be sweet, but the savoury options are equally impressive. The ‘Goats Cheese Soufflés with Spring Herb Salad and Roasted Cherries’ are inspired, while the ‘North African Lamb with Plums’ is a deliciously sweet, sticky and subtly spiced slow-cooked dish that is perfect for impressing loved ones. It is tricky to select just a few ‘stand-out’ sweet options, but the indulgent ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’, zesty ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ and sophisticated ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’ are not to be missed.

How often will I cook from this book?
This isn’t the kind of cookbook you will make something from every day of the week, but there is much to learn from the various charts and tables which will influence your cooking. Recipes cover everything from cakes, ice cream and jam to slow-roast meats, seasonal salads and sustainable fish. There is plenty of variety too, whether you want a teatime treat (‘Polenta Olive Oil Muffins with Blackberries’), a show stopping tart (‘Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts’ or a simple supper (‘Lemony Chicken Piccata’).

Any negatives?
Whilst not prohibitively extravagant, a few of the recipes are quite expensive to make due to the need to purchase certain liqueurs. Some recipes rely on a rather large number of eggs – ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’ uses 8 yolks and ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ calls for 8 whole eggs and 12 yolks. To her credit, Johnson acknowledges that the latter may seem excessive, but assures us they are necessary. Conscious of avoiding waste, she recommends saving the whites for her ‘Lemon Meringue Pie’ or ‘Meringues’ later in the book (as a side note, I would also heartily encourage you to try making your own ricciarelli, a deliciously soft Tuscan treat half-way between a macaron and an amaretti).

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a beautiful book which will inspire you to step outside of your comfort zone and cook more confidently, creatively and sustainably with seasonal fruit.

Cuisine: Seasonal British with Italian and French influences
Suitable for: Foodies and keen cooks who want to be more adventurous, and sustainable, with their cooking
Great for fans of: Alice Walters, Darina Allen and Skye Gygnell
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: Fruitful: Sweet and Savoury Fruit Recipes Inspired by Farms, Orchards and Gardens
£30.00, Kyle Books

Cook the Book:
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Make More with Less by Kitty Coles – Cookbook Review

Who is Kitty Coles?
Kitty Coles is a cook, recipe developer and food stylist with a passion for celebrating seasonal ingredients and fresh produce. Over the last eight years she has worked for publications such as The Telegraph and delicious. and on best-selling cookbooks including The Borough Market Cookbook, Mezcla and Pasta Grannies, earning a reputation for creating stunning recipes that leave you hungry for more. She is currently the food writer at @theglossmag and regularly updates followers with her daily eats on instagram @kittycoles. Make More with Less is her debut cookbook.

What is Make More with Less’ USP?
Right now, everyone is looking for ways to make their food go further and Make More with Less is here to help with versatile low-waste, low-fuss and low-effort recipes. Each chapter begins with a core recipe, followed by a selection of recipes that use it as a base. There are also ideas utilising the main ingredient to help you transform leftovers into flavour-packed dishes. Coles guarantees there’ll be no lengthy lists of unusual and/or expensive ingredients.

What will I love?
In a world of ‘food trends’ and obscure ‘must-have’ ingredients that you fork out a fortune for only to use once, Make More with Less is a refreshingly down-to-earth, practical cookbook. That isn’t to say the recipes are dull or uninspiring. It is clear that much thought has gone into the flavours and textures; imagine cooling honey-infused yoghurt designed to balance out zesty lemon potatoes and garnishes like crispy onions and nutty almond breadcrumbs.

You could be forgiven for assuming a book focused on some of the most-wasted foods might be a bit lacklustre, but the ideas such as ‘Very Oniony Pasta with Parmesan and Black Pepper’ (imagine a love-child of French Onion Soup and Cacio e Pepe) and ‘Salted Sesame Caramelised Breadcrumbs with Ice Cream and Olive Oil’ are innovative and exciting.

Coles promotes creativity and adaptability in the kitchen. She explains how to master basic recipes like meatballs and then encourages readers to explore beyond the classic ‘pasta and tomato sauce’ combination with suggestions for soups or serving them with yoghurt, herbs and flatbread. This championing of flexibility runs throughout the book with recipes like the ‘Any Cake Cake’ including several flavour variations and fruit toppings, as well as advice on how to adjust the recipe for different tin sizes.

It is refreshing to see some recipes that serve two. Often recipes are designed for groups of four and, while they can be halved, it feels more inclusive and is perfect for those who live alone and don’t fancy batch-cooking something to eat four days in a row.

Put simply, this is an empowering book full of delicious recipes, tips for using up odds and ends and striking, achievable, photography, all designed to help you develop confidence in the kitchen.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Sort of. There are no lengthy essays but there is an introduction that runs to several pages and each recipe includes its own paragraph. Coles also goes into detail about some of the ‘main’ ingredients with pages of subjects like ‘How to Roast a Chicken’ and ‘The Perfect Potato’.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. The book is designed to help use up some of the most wasted food items using simple, seasonal and affordable everyday ingredients. Coles also stays true to the promise she makes in the introduction not to send us out hunting for harissa or ‘Nduja. There is a useful ‘Note on Ingredients’ which includes a list of what she always has in the house which is a good base for any cook.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
A couple refer to ‘glugs’ of oil, but then the overall tone of the book is designed to be relaxed and encourage intuitive cooking. The recipes themselves are low on the faff factor with many on the table in under 30 minutes.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Baked Leek and Mustard Mashed Potato’ is a must-try for any mash potato fans while the green sauce from the ‘Roast Chicken with Green Sauce’ will become your new go-to to serve with a host of other dishes. ‘Onion Butter Beans with Crispy Garlic and Pickled Chillies’ is ideal for anyone looking for an alternative to hummus, and don’t miss the ‘Schnitzel with Curry Mayo’. In the sweet corner, the ‘Any Cake Cake’ is a delicious, versatile cake to make all year round, and ‘Brown Sugar Custard with Biscuit Crumb’is a must-make.

How often will I cook from this book?
The recipes are designed to be adjusted to suit your personal taste and what you have available, so you could easily make versions of the dishes regularly. There is a good variety of recipes for every occasion and the wealth of advice on leftovers will help you save money and reduce waste throughout the week.

Any negatives?
If you haven’t read the introduction, the structure and chapter breakdown might seem a bit confusing at first and does make the book a bit tricky to navigate. The ‘Meat and Fish’ chapter is mostly focused on chicken (although there are other fish recipes in different chapters). It would also be good to see a broader range of puds.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This book will give you the confidence and knowledge to transform everyday ingredients into delicious meals, with minimal effort.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities looking for fuss-free culinary inspiration.
Great for fans of: MOB and Claire Thomson
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Make More With Less: Foolproof Recipes to Make Your Food Go Further
£22.00, Hardie Grant

Cook the Book:
Baked Leek and Mustard Mashed Potato
Brown Sugar Custard with Biscuit Crumb
Leftover Chicken Tacos

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

One Pan Chicken by Claire Thomson – Cookbook Review

Who is Claire Thomson?
If you haven’t already heard of her, Claire Thomson is a chef and food writer behind the immensely popular @5oclockapron where she shares (almost) daily reels of the food she cooks for her family of 5. She is famed for her enthusiasm for fuss-free food, encouraging followers to skip the stress and embrace joy in their cooking, all while celebrating seasonal, sustainable ingredients. She is the author of 9 cookbooks — including the award-winning Tomato: 70 Recipes Celebrating the Extraordinary Tomato and immensely popular Home Cookery Year: Four Seasons, Over 200 Recipes for All Possible Occasions — and has written for the Guardian, Telegraph, Good Food and many others. She also recently launched the ‘5 o’clock apron podcast’ where she ‘chops and chats’ with guests from a host of professions as they share what they cook every day in their real-life kitchens.

What is One Pan Chicken’s USP?
Jumping on the popularity of ‘One Pot’ and ‘One Tin’ cookbooks, One Pan Chicken promises 70 simple, delicious and inventive recipes using various popular cuts of chicken and one casserole dish, roasting pan, baking tray, frying pan or stockpot.

What will I love?
Chicken is a regular in most people’s shopping baskets, but it is easy to get stuck in a rut when it comes to recipes. Thomson provides the solution with a plethora of adventurous ideas inspired by cuisines across the world, from ‘Miso Butter Chicken’ to ‘Hungarian Chicken Paprikash’. For a book confined to one ‘hero’ ingredient, there is an impressive variety, from something light like a ‘Caesar Salad’ or warming like a ‘Chicken with Borlotti Beans, Cavolo Nero and Rosemary’. There’s recipes for both oven and hob and that utilise breasts, thighs, wings or a whole chicken to delicious effect. The recipes (all accompanied by a beautifully shot photo) genuinely feel ‘new’ and will inject a little excitement into your mealtimes.

Is it good bedtime reading?
The focus of the book is on flavoursome recipes for busy people. If you are expecting essays on free-range chicken, sustainable poultry farming and/or the origins of various chicken dishes (akin to the beautifully written seasonal introductions found in Thomson’s Home Cookery Year) you will be disappointed. In fairness, the one page introduction touches on these points, and each recipe includes an introduction which shares advice and the inspiration behind the dish.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
One of Thomson’s many strong points is that she always ensures her recipes are accessible and includes alternative suggestions if an ingredient is remotely tricky to find. For example, the ‘Chicken Braciole’ uses pecorino in the filling instead of the harder-to-source, but traditional, provolone (although the option is included for those able to find it). Likewise, the ‘Elote-style Chicken with Corn’ suggests using feta while mentioning that Cotija and Chihuahua are authentic choices. You may struggle to source the fried maize (kikos) used in the recipe, but you could always make your own. There is the odd mention of more unusual ingredients like rosewater, dried sour cherries, Japanese seven spice (togarashi), truffle oil, truffle paste and dried porcini mushrooms, but nowadays they aren’t too difficult to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Like all her books (and recipe videos on her 5 o’clock apron instagram), Thomson’s instructions are clear and detailed enough to guide even the most nervous cooks. The only slight criticism is that it would be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Sticky Sesame Marmalade Chicken Wings’ are dangerously addictive (be sure to make extra), while the ‘Fried Chicken with Kimchi’ is a must-try for fans of sweet and sour dishes. Meanwhile, the ‘Chicken Dauphinoise with Dijon and Cream’ is the ultimate comfort food on a cold and chilly day, while the ‘Za’atar Chicken served with Hummus, Pine Nuts and Pomegranate’ is a jewelled, flavour-packed dish that will transport your taste buds straight to the Middle East. Don’t miss the ‘Chicken with Tortilla Chips, Black Beans and Feta’ in the ‘Leftovers’ chapter – in fact, I would recommend cooking extra chicken just to give it a go…

How often will I cook from this book?
This could easily become a go-to cookbook when you want something simple and stress-free, that still delivers on flavour. The variety of recipes is what makes this book such a winner. From a classic ‘Chicken and Leek Pot Pie’ to a vibrant ‘Chimichurri Chicken with Roast Squash’ — not to mention the Greek-inspired ‘Chicken Soup with Egg and Lemon’ and the ‘Chicken Baguette with Tarragon, Gherkin and Mustard Butter’ — there genuinely is something for every mood, season, taste and occasion.

Any negatives?
Despite being part of the ‘One Pan’ cookbook cohort, not all recipes are ‘complete meals’ and would typically call for rice, pasta, potatoes etc alongside (thus requiring an extra pan).

Should I buy the book?
A definite ‘yes’. Thomson has, once again, excelled at creating yet another cookbook full of enticing, accessible recipes that leave you counting down until suppertime. One Pan Chicken is a must-have for anyone looking to enhance their culinary repertoire with flavour-packed fuss-free chicken recipes that will delight the whole family.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Anyone looking for inspiring, faff-free ways to celebrate the humble chicken.
Great for fans of: Rukmini Ayer
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: One Pan Chicken: 70 All-in-One Chicken Recipes For Simple Meals, Every Day
£20.00, Quadrille

Cook the Book
Chicken Pilaf
Chicken Tagine with Chickpeas, Dates and Apricots
Fried Chicken with Kimchi

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

It Starts with Veg by Ceri Jones – Cookbook Review

Who is Ceri Jones?
Ceri Jones trained as a Natural Chef in Berkeley, California before embarking on a career cooking food for yoga and well-being retreats around the world. She currently works part-time as a Food Educator at the Garden Museum in London, where she pioneered one of the first museum food learning programmes in the country. She is also a freelance writer and content creator and regularly shares seasonal recipes and cooking tips with her followers on social media. It Starts with Veg is her first cookbook.

What is It Starts with Veg’s USP?
Looking for ways to include more vegetables in your diet? It Starts with Veg promises 100 easy and delicious seasonal recipes for every occasion. Focusing on 40 vegetables, from potato to celeriac, Jones takes us through the best ways to prepare them and the tastiest flavour pairings. Vegetables are the stars of the show, but recipes also include seasonal fruits, herbs, whole grains, beans and pulses, as well as a little meat, dairy, fish and seafood, all designed to help you enjoy eating more veg.

What will I love?
If you want to include more veg in your diet, this is a good place to start, with chapters based around vegetable families including brassicas, fungi, pods and leaves. There’s plenty of advice on substituting vegetables which means you can be flexible with what you have already to hand and you won’t necessarily need to buy more ingredients or adjust recipes to suit your tastes, ideal if there are certain veg you really cannot stand.

It’s refreshing to see a flexitarian book that celebrates seasonality and plant-based produce, while including meat and fish. As Jones explains in her introduction, she views them as the ‘seasoning’ to add flavour although vegetarian alternatives are given, where possible. It feels more approachable, in contrast to some fully vegetarian and vegan books that can come across as a bit ‘preachy’.

Most of the recipes are for two people, which is perfect for couples or those living on their own who don’t want to be left with lots of leftovers. However, they are all easy to scale up if cooking for family and friends. The UK-US conversion chart and UK-US culinary terms list are both very useful, as is the ‘further reading’ list of resources. It feels like a great deal of thought and care has gone into making It Starts with Veg as inspiring and comprehensive as possible. It is more of a ‘vegetable bible’ than a cookbook.

Is it good bedtime reading?
This is a book to be read as much as it is to be cooked from. Jones is generous with her wisdom and the book is brimming with highly readable advice on how to cook more sustainably; from seasonal eating and minimising food waste to how to reduce food costs. Each chapter and recipe has an introduction and there is also a list of ‘cooking terms’ which is helpful for less confident cooks.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
You shouldn’t do if you are cooking in season, although there is plenty of advice on how to substitute if you struggle to source a particular veg. Jones includes ingredients like ‘Nduja and pul biber to pack in plenty of flavour, but these are widely available nowadays.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Each recipe includes the number of servings and the time it should take (and yes, the latter is accurate for a fairly competent home cook as opposed to a Michelin-starred chef with everything good-to-go), followed by a clearly set out list of ingredients and well-explained recipe.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Leftover Roasties, Herb and Gruyère Frittata’ will become a Monday staple for those of you who enjoy a Sunday roast, while the ‘Leek, Roasted Pepper and Cheese Toasties’ are delicious for a quick lunch. The ‘Purple Sprouting Broccoli Puff Pastry Tarts with Ricotta and Olive Tapenade’ is a great base recipe to adjust throughout the seasons with different veg, while the ‘Griddled Leeks and Spring Onions with ‘Nduja Butter Sauce’ simply must be served with cous cous or warm bread to mop up every last morsel of the flavour-packed sauce.

How often will I cook from this book?
There is every chance that this book could be cooked from regularly. The recipes are affordable, and accessible and include a wide variety of flavours to suit all tastes. There are options for a myriad of occasions, from simple summer lunches (‘Roasted Radishes with Whipped Feta on Toast’) to comforting winter warmers (‘Cavolo Nero, ‘Nduja and Butter Bean Stew’), not to mention a host of starters and sides which can be easily be transformed into mains.

Any negatives?
There aren’t any photos which may disappoint those who like to see what a dish will look like before deciding whether to make it. However, some lovely illustrations complement the tone of the book.

Should I buy the book?
If you are a fan of vegetables or looking to include more plant foods in your diet, yes. This book will revolutionise your approach to veg and leave you feeling excited and inspired.

Cuisine: Flexitarian
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities who want to broaden their veg-centred recipe repertoire.
Great for fans of: Joe Woodhouse and Anna Jones
Cookbook review rating: 4 stars
Buy this book: It Starts with Veg: 100 Seasonal Suppers and Sides
£20.00, Pavilion Books

Cook the Book
Roasted New Potato and Green Bean Salad

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

The Food Substitutions Bible by David Joachim

The Food Substitutions Bible is a hefty reference volume offering over 8000 ideas for smart replacements useful on those occasions when you’ve misjudged the contents of your cupboards. Need something to sit in for those fennel seeds you forgot to pick up in the weekend shop? Simply flick through to ‘F’ and discover that while anise seeds are your ideal swap, dill seeds will work in a pinch to offer a slightly milder flavour, or caraway seeds, if you’re happy to forgo some sweetness.

This is the third edition of David Joachim’s book, which first came out in 2005, before being revised in 2010. The way we eat has changed significantly in the past decade, and the new additions here reflect that. From freekeh to katsuobushi, Joachim acknowledges the ongoing global shift in the industry.

But the focus isn’t strictly on base-level ingredients – there are recommendations for tools that might stand in for a blowtorch, a steamer, or various specialist pots and pans. Folks with cookbooks that are more ambitious than their local supermarket shelves will find plenty of use in the suggestions of more readily accessible equivalents to elk, squirrel and crocodile.

There’s still room for improvements in future editions, though: having been diagnosed as coeliac last year, I’m still trying to get my head around substitutions for a long list of ingredients I have been surprised to have robbed from my kitchen (Marmite! Soy sauce! English mustard!) While each of these are addressed in some way in the book, none of them face the gluten question head on. This feels like a waste when the very concept of the book offers so much promise to those suffering from any number of dietary restrictions; those with nut allergies will be among those who might also feel a little underserved in some areas.

You should buy The Food Substitutions Bible for a handy point of reference while cooking. Yes, Google exists, but when you’re deep into a recipe and juggling several pans at once it can be a real faff to discern which citation-thirsty suggestion will actually work in practice. Even in the first week in my house, Joachim came to my rescue on two different occasions, suggesting simple replacements that saved dinner. For that alone, this is a purchase worth making.

Cuisine: Global
Suitable for: Beginner and confident home cooks as well as curious foodies and professional chefs
Cookbook Review Rating: Four stars

Buy this book: The Food Substitutions Bible

Review written by Stephen Rötzsch Thomas a Nottingham-based writer. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @srotzschthomas

The Wok by J. Kenji López-Alt

A friend does a great impression of a former housemate. It’s at exactly the moment they realise it’s much quicker to make mashed potatoes by chopping it into smaller bits first, rather than boiling one giant potato and mashing it whole. We’ve all been there. A fizzle and a crack as old neurons make new connections, a deluge of endorphins, a brief moment of shame and eureka: a higher plane of consciousness.

Get used to this feeling reading The Wok, a book of such astonishing detail and craft that comparisons to other weighty tomes like encyclopaedias seem somehow derogatory. J. Kenji López-Alt has built his reputation on this meticulous, science-oriented approach to cooking and has seen him garner a huge online following with over a million subscribers to his excellent YouTube channel as well as regular contributions to major publications and a growing collection of cookbooks.

His latest is substantial in both size and scope. Physically, it’s the sort of thing that used to be compared to the Yellow Pages but now is probably more like a stack of iPads. Though the heft is a reward for the sheer breadth of information found on its pages, ranging from the basics of stir-frying and chopping all the way to Scoville units and the glutamic acid content of certain foods.

Woks are versatile creatures and the chapters reflect this, being summarised by either ways of cooking with a wok, like Stir-Frying, Braising or Deep Frying or cooking with wok-centric ingredients like Rice or Noodles. Each chapter mingles technique, scientific explanations and applicable recipes like in the section dedicated to stir-frying chicken for instance, you will find an explanation for velveting, the scientific reasoning behind it and then a recipe for Sweet and Sour Chicken.

If you’ve ever enjoyed something cooked with a wok whether from China, Japan, Thailand or even at your local takeaway, it’s likely to be here. There’s recipes for ramen, tempura, dumplings, curries, all types of noodles, classic takeaway meals, traditional dishes, oils, and condiments. The recipes are written with such exacting measurements and instructions it’s almost impossible to get wrong and are so precise, you’re often told exactly where to place the ingredients into the wok (swirl your sauce around the side!). Trust in the process and it’ll deliver probably the best homemade version of that particular dish you could hope for.

The book has elevated every part of my cooking with a wok. Dishes like Fried Rice, Dan Dan Noodles, Pad See Ew and Lo Mein that benefit from the turbocharged gas burners in restaurants were as good of an approximation I could have wished to achieve at home (I’ve yet to try the suggestion of using a blow torch to achieve more authentic results). Recipes less demanding of high heat like Kung Pao Chicken, Khai Jiao (Thai-Style Omelette), Mapo Tofu and Soy Glazed Mushrooms were all exceptional. Better still, The Wok has improved my cooking even when not following the book. Using the lessons learned like the specific size of the vegetables, the order of cooking the ingredients or how you heat the oil has meant the quick Tuesday night stir-fry is as good as it’s ever been.

There’s no avoiding The Wok is theory heavy, more a Cook’s Book than a cookbook. Scientific explanations are almost always lurking over the next page and how much you engage with these will depend on your appetite for it. They are tiny marvels in themselves, using a data and process driven approach to justify any conclusions though personally, I find overly academic accounts of kitchen alchemy can leave me a little cold, like gazing at a rainbow and being told it’s just water drops and light dispersion, actually.

This however, is a pocket-sized gripe. Much like López-Alt’s The Food Lab, Samin Nosrat’s Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat and Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking, The Wok is a book that isn’t content with showing you how, it wants to show you why. Sure, you can teach a man to fish but you could also show him how salt interacts with protein on a molecular level until he makes the best Kung Pao Prawns this side of the river. For a little time and energy, this is a book that will change how you cook for a lifetime.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Confident home cooks/Professional chefs
Cookbook Review Rating: Five stars

Buy this book: The Wok by J. Kenji López-Alt
£36, WW Norton & Co

Review written by Nick Dodd a Leeds-based pianist, teacher and writer. Contact him at www.yorkshirepiano.co.uk

Baking with Fortitude by Dee Rettali

What’s the USP? Just because we’re not in lockdown any more doesn’t mean we’ve abandoned our national sourdough habit, does it? Either way, here’s a collection of sourdough cakes and bakes (and non-fermented recipes too) from cult London bakery Fortitude to keep your (sourdough) mother happy. The book is the winner of the Andre Simon Food Book Award 2021.

Who wrote it? Irish-born baker Dee Rettali was something of an organic food pioneer, opening Patisserie Organic in London in 1988. She is the former head chef of the London-based cafe chain Fernandez and Wells and opened Fortitude bakery in Bloomsbury in 2018. This is her first book.

Is it good bedtime reading? There’s a six page introduction plus one or two page introductions to each of the seven chapters but that’s your lot.

Will I have trouble finding ingredients? You’ll need an online specialist supplier for dried meadowsweet to make the first recipe in the book, a butter loaf cake flavoured with honey and meadowsweet (one of eight butter loaf cakes recipes – the book is organised around base recipes and their variations).

Go anywhere but your local supermarket for the ‘fresh ripe’ fruit Rettali specifies for things like Lavender and Pear Butter Loaf Cake because, well, when was the last time you bought fruit from Asda et al that was fresh and ripe? If you need overpriced stuff that is rock hard, tasteless and goes bad before it approaches ripeness then you’d be laughing.

You’ll need to buy organic flour of course, including buckwheat flour to make orange, yoghurt and polenta cake, but you should have few issues obtaining the vast majority of ingredients specified in the book.

What’s the faff factor? Although the book is billed as a collection of sourdough bakes which might sound complicated, in fact most of the recipes don’t use a starter but can be fermented if you wish to deepen the resultant flavour which Rettali claims is an innovation in cake baking. This process takes no additional effort, you just need to plan ahead. The base recipes, that include the aforementioned butter loaf cake as well as olive oil cake, yoghurt cake and sour milk soda bread are often just a matter of combining the ingredients in a bowl although the brioche and sourdough butter cake mixes are a little more complex.

The complete recipes range from the simple and straightforward Blueberry and Lime Little Buns to the slightly more involved Sticky Cinnamon Buns with Molasses Sugar, but there is nothing off-puttingly complex or too fiddly here. This is good old fashioned baking rather than fancy detailed patisserie work.

What will I love? Rettali has a very clear culinary vision and distinct style so that the recipes never feel over-familiar. There are some classics like Eccles cakes and hot cross buns (albeit a sourdough-based version mad with candied orange) but also creations you may not have come across before like turmeric custard and roast pear brioche buns or chocolate and chilli sugar olive oil loaf cake.

What won’t I like so much? Using the base-recipe-and-variations format means there is cross over and similarity among the groups of recipes (there are an awful lot of loaf cakes for example) in what, at 192 pages, is a relatively short book. You will need a food mixer for some of the recipes as alternative methods are not provided.

How often will I cook from the book? If you are a keen baker, there is enough variety, from tahini, za’tar and sesame seed biscuits to tomato, garlic and oregano soda bread to keep you busy for many weeks.

Should I buy it? If you are an experienced baker looking to create something that little but different, this is definitely the book for you. Newbies will also appreciate Rettali’s encouraging attitude, ‘By sharing my recipes and approach to baking, I want to take away the fear. Use your hands, get your fingers right into the bottom of the bowl and feel the dough.’

Cuisine: British baking
Suitable for: Confident home cooks/beginners/professional chefs
Cookbook Review Rating: Four stars

Buy this book
Baking with Fortitude by Dee Rettali
£22, Bloomsbury

Cook from this book
Rose and Pistachio Little Buns by Dee Rettali

Winner of the Andre Simon Food Book Award 2021. Click the image below to find out more.