4 star books

Pasta Pronto by Mateo Zielonka – Cookbook Review

Who is Mateo Zielonka?
Mateo Zielonka is better known to his 900k+ Instagram followers (@mateo.ziolonka) as The Pasta Man. He is a London-based chef, pasta teacher and creator whose culinary philosophy blends visual artistry with disciplined technique. Originally from Poland, he honed his skills at London institutions such as Padella and Polpo before opening his own pasta studio. His earlier books, The Pasta Man and Pasta Masterclass, established him as the go-to name for anyone serious about homemade pasta. Pasta Pronto marks a shift from the intricate and artisanal to the quick, flavour-packed and effortlessly doable.

What is Pasta Pronto’s USP?
Pasta Pronto celebrates speed without compromise. This isn’t about sculpting elaborate pasta shapes (although there are plenty of those on his social media – this post is extraordinary), it’s about getting brilliant pasta dishes on the table fast, without losing the heart or soul of Italian cooking. The book offers 55 recipes that range from quick midweek miracles (20 minutes or less) to slightly slower weekend indulgences, with every dish offering the option of using fresh or dried pasta. This dual approach (fresh if you have time, dried if you don’t) makes the book genuinely flexible. Zielonka also includes thoughtful primers on essential kitchen tools, store cupboard staples, and the art of cooking pasta perfectly.

What will I love?
If your ideal evening involves a bowl of pasta, a glass of wine and minimal washing up, this is the book for you. The recipes balance speed with sophistication: expect comforting dishes made lively with hits of chilli and lemon and silky sauces that come together in minutes. Zielonka writes with quiet confidence; he is never showy, but his generosity and good taste shine through. The photography and styling are elegant yet relaxed, making the food feel invitingly within reach.

Clear sections guide you through kitchen essentials, pantry staples and a concise but thorough pasta masterclass (with vegan and gluten-free doughs included). Step-by-step photo guides to shaping, rolling and cooking pasta are ideal for beginners.

There are also clever serving suggestions peppered throughout such as a peppery rocket and Parmesan salad or a handful of crispy pangrattato, small flourishes that make a simple dish sing. Vegetarian and vegan adaptations are included too.

Is it good bedtime reading?
This is the sort of book you flick through before dinner, or keep propped open on the worktop. Zielonka doesn’t meander into long travel stories or culinary essays, but his short recipe introductions are warm, personal and engaging. He offers just enough backstory or technique insight to feel companionable, without drifting into waffle.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Zielonka keeps things accessible: olive oil, garlic, pancetta, tinned tomatoes, seasonal vegetables, seafood and herbs you can find in most supermarkets. Occasionally, a recipe calls for a premium cheese or a particular cured meat but they can easily be swapped.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Zielonka’s instructions are clear and efficient. Each recipe offers the fresh or dried pasta route, ideal for afternoons when you want to make a bit more effort, as well as nights when time and/or energy are in short supply. While a few dishes involve multiple components, none require chef-level prep. This is everyday cooking at its most elegant.

Stand-out recipes?
Spaghetti with Creamy Ricotta and Basil is a soft, velvety twist on pesto that’s light, fragrant and indulgent without being heavy. For something brighter, Spaghetti with Poached Cod, Capers and Lemon delivers the perfect balance of sharpness and silkiness, ideal for summer evenings. Meanwhile, Orzo Salad with Cannellini Beans and Cavolo Nero is a nourishing all-rounder, just as satisfying at the kitchen table as it is packed up for lunch or a picnic. And when comfort calls, Pappardelle with Gorgonzola and Speck is gloriously rich and soothing, especially when paired with Zielonka’s Sautéed Garlicky Broccoli, creating the kind of meal that makes you linger at the table a little longer than planned.

How often will I cook from this book?
This is a book for repeat use, not display. The balance between simplicity and creativity means you’ll find yourself returning again and again, whether for a Tuesday-night Rigatoni with ‘No-Vodka Sauce’ or a weekend treat.

Alongside reliable classics like Alfredo and carbonara, you’ll discover inventive combinations such as Spaghetti alla Tapenade, Farfalle with Fig and Chorizo, and Orecchiette with Broccoli and Anchovy that expand your repertoire.

Any negatives?
The pared-back writing style, while refreshing, might feel a little sparse to readers who enjoy travel anecdotes or deep cultural context. And while 55 recipes cover a lot of ground, you might find yourself wishing for a few more. Still, what’s here feels polished, practical and full of personality.

Should I buy the book?
Pasta Pronto isn’t about perfection or pasta purism; it’s about joy, flavour and achievable food that fits real life. You’ll cook from it often, and with pleasure.

Cuisine: Italian with global flourishes
Suitable for: Time-conscious food lovers seeking flavour-forward meals
Great for fans of: Theo Randall and Tim Siadatan
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Pasta Pronto by Mateo Zielonka £18.00, Quadrille

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Speedy Comfort by Jon Watts – Cookbook Review

Who is Jon Watts?
Jon Watts’s journey into food is one of transformation. As a teenager in a young offenders’ institution, he became the first person in custody to complete all three Duke of Edinburgh Awards. He learned to cook in the prison kitchens and officers’ mess, and later trained at one of Jamie Oliver’s restaurants while on day release, a turning point that helped him build a new future. He went on to gain national attention through social media (@jonwatts88) and TV appearances, including regular slots cooking live on ITV’s This Morning.

In 2023, Watts self-published his first cookbook, Watts Cooking, which became a word-of-mouth hit. That success led to his Speedy series, beginning with the bestselling Speedy Weeknight Meals and now followed by Speedy Comfort. His recipes are known for being simple, satisfying and budget-friendly, with ingredients that are easy to find. Beyond the kitchen, he shares his story with schools, prisons and businesses, speaking openly about resilience, second chances, and the power of purpose.

What is Speedy Comfort’s USP?
This is comfort food for real life: meals that soothe and satisfy, but won’t keep you in the kitchen all evening. Every recipe in Speedy Comfort is designed to be on the table in 30 minutes or less without sacrificing flavour or warmth. There’s no gimmickry here, just practical, generous cooking that works when time (and energy) are in short supply.

What will I love?
The photography is bright and appealing, but there’s no gloss for gloss’s sake. Everything looks achievable, like food you might actually cook on a Wednesday night. The tone is equally grounded: there’s no preaching, no performance, just food that makes sense.

Though it isn’t overtly marketed as a “budget” cookbook, there’s a real thoughtfulness around cost. Recipes rely on everyday ingredients so you won’t be sent off looking for obscure pastes or out-of-season veg. The food is affordable without drawing attention to itself.

The layout is clean and intuitive, with recipes easy to scan at a glance. Helpful symbols throughout the book flag up key features such as freezer-friendly, air fryer–adaptable, or ideal for batch cooking making it easy to plan meals around your time, energy and what you have in the fridge. There are also clever hacks scattered throughout including time-savers, swaps, and shortcuts that make the recipes even more flexible.

Is it good bedtime reading?
There’s no literary storytelling, essays or poetic flourishes, but there is a reassuringly companionable tone. Watts writes like someone who knows how it feels to cook when you’re tired, hungry, or simply lacking inspiration and shows you how to create something delicious anyway.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Everything can be found in a standard UK supermarket, and the recipes don’t ask for anything rare or niche. This is a book that respects your time and your local Tesco.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. The instructions are clear and written for real people in real kitchens the kind where time is short, you have family commitments, or simply too tired to fuss. Watts doesn’t overexplain, but neither does he assume knowledge, with the recipes offering structure without straying into the patronising.

There’s cleverness in how he’s reimagined classic comfort dishes. A streamlined Coq au Vin can be made in just 30 minutes, without feeling rushed or compromised. There are also plenty of fakeaway favourites, like the Sweet’n’Spicy Chicken, ready in 15 minutes, full of bold flavour but still entirely doable after a long day.

Stand-out recipes?
The One Pan Butter Chicken is the sort of dish that tastes like it took hours, but doesn’t. Enjoy with rice and/or naan to mop up all the delicious sauce. Popcorn Chicken Katsu is playful and clever, and would make an excellent Friday-night-in option (the tip about swapping panko breadcrumbs for cornflakes is also very helpful). Smoky Paprika Salmon with Lemon Couscous is quick, fragrant, and full of flavour, the perfect choice when you want something a little lighter (we enjoyed it with some roasted peppers on the side). There are also lots of options to satisfy your sweet tooth. Irish Cream and Dark Chocolate Mousse is the ultimate fuss-free festive dessert, while the Panettone Pudding is ideal for making the most of Christmas leftovers.

How often will I cook from this book?
Often. The book is well-structured, with chapters that suit different moods and needs, including Family Feasts, Old School Classics, Lighter Comforts, Easy Dinners, Weekend Treats, Cosy Traybakes, and Puddings. Whether you want to rustle up something familiar or treat yourself at the weekend, there’s a recipe here that’ll fit the moment.

Any negatives?
This isn’t a book for long weekends of elaborate cooking, and it’s not trying to reinvent the wheel. It’s not a statement cookbook. It’s a useful one.

Should I buy the book?
If you want flavour, speed, and recipes you’ll actually cook, not just admire, this is a very worthwhile addition to your kitchen shelf.

Cuisine: Global
Suitable for: Busy home cooks, parents, students and anyone seeking good food fast
Great for fans of: Amy Sheppard, MOB Kitchen and Poppy O’Toole
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Speedy Comfort by Jon Watts £22.00, Bloomsbury

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Easy Ten by Amy Sheppard – Cookbook Review

Who is Amy Sheppard?
Amy Sheppard is a food writer, home cook and mum based in Cornwall, with a wonderfully straightforward approach to family cooking. She’s gained a loyal following on social media (@amysheppardfood) by championing recipes that are both budget-friendly and full of flavour; no faff, just good honest food that the whole family can enjoy.

What is the Easy Ten’s USP?
The book’s premise is to focus on the 10 most commonly purchased supermarket staples and how to transform them into 100 quick, affordable dinners. It’s a brilliant idea for anyone who’s ever felt stuck in a cooking rut or just needs some inspiration for busy weeknights.

What will I love?
The fact that the recipes such as Chicken Kyiv Spaghetti and Cheesy Chorizo Rice Cakes, are simple and achievable, but far from boring. Sheppard’s tone is warm and encouraging, and her dishes are clearly written with family life in mind.

There is also a broad range of recipes with comfort food aplenty (think creamy pastas, traybakes, and hearty curries), but also lighter soups and stir fries for busy weekdays. Recipes are divided into chapters focusing on: Rice, Chicken, Pasta, Canned Fish, Potatoes, Sausages, Ready-rolled Pastry, Cheddar, Lentils and Beef Mince. None of the recipes are particularly expensive or challenging to make. It is cooking for real-life busy households who don’t want to spend hours at the stove, but still want to eat well.

Each recipe has an enticing photo alongside helpful freezing instructions and suggested ingredient substitutions. There is also a strong emphasis on reducing food waste, using store-cupboard staples wisely, and making the most of every ingredient.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Perhaps not in a literary sense — this is a practical, straight-talking book — but it is still a pleasure to flick through. The layout is clean, the photography bright, and there’s a comforting sense of order in how everything is arranged. It’s the kind of book you reach for at the end of a long day and feel reassured that tomorrow’s supper won’t be stressful.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Amy writes for real people, and her ingredient lists reflect that. Everything is easy to find in most supermarkets, and there is clever use of store-cupboard staples (tins, packets, frozen bits) throughout. There’s also an awareness of food waste, with plenty of tips for using up leftovers and making ingredients stretch a little further.

Stand out recipes?
There are lots. The Spiced Chicken and Couscous sings with aromatic spices and is perfect for a laid-back summer Sunday roast. For chilly nights, the Potato, Camembert and Bacon Bake is gloriously indulgent, as are the Croque Monsieur Baked Potatoes and Potato, Leek and Three-Cheese Pie. The Mini Salmon en Croutes are a standout — they look impressive but are deceptively simple — and the Whipped Stilton, Red Onion and Walnut Slices are dreamy warm with buttery potatoes or popped into lunchboxes the next day.

How often will I cook from the book?
Often. This is a book that wants to be used. You will find yourself scribbling notes in the margins and slotting recipes into your regular routine. It is built for busy households and everyday cooking. Less about entertaining, more about making weeknights manageable and mealtimes a little more joyful.

Any negatives?
There are no puddings or cakes to satisfy your sweet tooth, which some may miss, and it may not push boundaries for confident or experimental cooks. But for most of us — the ones feeding families, juggling work, and still wanting to eat well — that’s precisely what makes this book so useful. It meets you where you are.

Should I buy the book?
Yes, especially if you find yourself staring blankly into the fridge at suppertime wondering what to cook. Easy Ten offers fuss-free solutions that are both satisfying and sustainable. It is a proper friend-in-the-kitchen sort of cookbook that you will reach for again and again.

Cuisine: everyday British with global flavours
Suitable for: busy home cooks, families, students, and anyone looking to simplify mealtimes
Great for fans of: Jon Watts, Nadiya Hussain and The Batch Lady
Cookbook review rating: 4 stars
Buy the book: Easy 10: 10 Everyday Ingredients, 100 Fuss-free Dinner Recipes: The Sunday Times Bestseller by Amy Sheppard

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Spanish Pantry by José Pizarro

Who is José Pizarro?
José Pizarro is a Spanish chef and restaurateur who has spent over two decades bringing the soul of Spanish cooking to British tables. Born in Extremadura and now firmly rooted in the UK with a string of restaurants, he is known for his ability to translate the warmth and flavour of traditional Spanish food into something approachable, generous, and deeply satisfying. The Spanish Pantry is his ode to the essential ingredients that define the cuisine he grew up with.

What is The Spanish Pantry’s USP?
This is a grounded, ingredient-led cookbook that takes you back to the essentials that sit quietly in Spanish kitchens but carry so much flavour. It’s less about technique-heavy cooking and more about building confidence with essential components, encouraging cooks to build dishes from simple, high-quality basics. The result is a book that feels both accessible and rooted in tradition, quietly showing how much can be done with a well-stocked cupboard and a little care.

What will I love?
The Spanish Pantry is a love letter to the core components of Spanish cooking. Each chapter is built around one iconic pantry ingredient (Onions, Tomatoes, Peppers, Chorizo, Manchego, Almonds, Lemons, Rice, Chickpeas, Beans, Jamón and Saffron), showing how something simple and humble can unlock the bold, sun-drenched flavours of the Mediterranean. It is smart, focused, and deeply rooted in place. A real education in how to cook with heart, by knowing your basics inside out.

Pizarro excels at bringing Spanish cooking alive without making it overcomplicated. A tin of anchovies, a drizzle of good oil, and suddenly you’re on a terrace in Andalucía. Recipes like ‘Braised Black Beans with Spatchcock Chicken and Herb Salsa’, ‘Warm Gigante Beans on Toast’, and ‘Oloroso-braised Lamb Shanks and Chickpeas with Warm Anchovy Salsa’ offer richness and depth with minimal fuss. His food is rustic and hearty, yet still beautiful in its simplicity; exactly the kind of food you want to cook at home.

The helpful ‘menus’ section at the back provides inspiration for Lunch, Dinner, Tapas, Brunch and Summer Lunch party menus and includes time planning instructions so you can prepare ahead like a pro and entertain with ease. The beautiful photographs of Spain will have you hunting out your passport.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes, if you like to dream of distant markets and seaside tavernas. Pizarro writes with warmth, clarity and a palpable sense of place. You get snippets of Spanish life, hints of Extremadura and the Basque coast, and an unmistakable reverence for the people who taught him to cook.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Some specialist items like sobrasada and morcilla might require a good deli or online shop, but many recipes rely on staples already in your cupboard. Think olive oil, paprika, garlic, pulses and tinned seafood. Although the book is about celebrating Spanish culture and cuisine, it is by no means inaccessible to UK cooks. Pizarro’s aim is to make your pantry do the heavy lifting, and he succeeds. There’s no unnecessary showing off, just good, honest cooking.

How often will I cook from the book?
This is very much a weekday-and-weekend sort of book. Although there are dishes which take a bit longer (the ‘Braised Jamón and Pork Knuckle with Olive Oil Mash’ is a succulent slow-cooked winner) or are impressive enough for a dinner party, this isn’t a book full of technical flourishes. It is real, robust food that you will return to time and time again. If you like the idea of elevating simple ingredients into something soul-stirring, this book will become a well-used companion.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Jamón Serrano and Watermelon Salad with Honey and Basil’ is a beautifully simple, and wonderfully refreshing, summer salad. ‘Garlic and Manchego Coca’ is a must-try for garlic bread fans, and the ‘Patatas à la Importancia con Chorizo’ will soon become one of your favourite ways to enjoy potatoes. Don’t miss the ‘Warm Olive Oil and Almond Cake with Preserved Peaches’. It has the most delicious flavour and moist texture, one of those cakes you will find yourself making on repeat.

Any negatives?
Once you get into the recipes, you may find yourself seeking out higher-quality pantry items, which can become expensive. However, the flipside is that it encourages you to cook (and eat) more consciously, with respect for quality and provenance.

Should I buy the book?
If you love Spanish food (not just the kind you eat on holiday, but the kind you dream of recreating in your own kitchen) The Spanish Pantry is a gem. It’s informative, heartfelt, and packed with flavour. You will eat well and learn a lot.

Cuisine: traditional and regional Spanish
Suitable for: curious foodies and lovers of Mediterranean flavours
Great for fans of: Claudia Roden, Rick Stein and Sam & Sam Clark
Cookbook review rating: 4 stars
Buy the book: The Spanish Pantry: 12 Ingredients, 100 Simple Recipes byJosé Pizarro, Hardie Grant £28.00

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Dessert Course by Benjamin Delwiche – Cookbook Review

Who is Benjamin Delwiche?
You are more likely to know Benjamin Delwiche by his instagram handle @benjaminthebaker. Despite having over 667,000 followers avidly following his baking advice, Delwiche is actually a maths teacher. It might seem an unusual link at first. However, the parallels soon become clear when you see his approach to recipes. Just as he might break down a complicated maths equation to help a puzzled pupil, Delwiche ‘decodes’ the science behind each stage in a recipe, helping explain how and why they work. As he says in his introduction, “Following instructions is one thing, but confidently understanding the concepts that underlie the process is quite another”.

What is Dessert Course’s USP?
Delwiche describes it as ‘a celebration of the art and science of baking: the ingredients, the recipes, and the concepts that make a baked good both technically successful and undeniably delicious.’ Dessert Course is about explaining how a handful of everyday ingredients can be transformed into an irresistible sweet treat without a kitchen full of expensive equipment or ingredients. It goes beyond just providing the recipes, aiming to help readers develop key foundational skills and understand the fundamental science behind each bake, all in a relatable and accessible manner.

What will I love?
Dessert Course is the ideal book for anyone interested in baking. Complete beginners will be able to build their confidence and knowledge, while more experienced bakers can brush up on their theory and discover more about how and why recipes work.

This is all explained in the first section, with pages dedicated to breaking down recipes, the importance of measuring and scaling, and details on various mixing methods (ever wanted to learn the ins and outs of classic creaming vs reverse creaming?). Then comes the recipes, each starting with a flow chart showing how altering a few steps (or ratios) can significantly impact the final result, ideal for anyone who enjoyed Lateral Cooking by Niki Segnit.

That such a treasure trove of information never feels weighty or dull is a testament to Delwiche’s writing and the skill of the book’s design team. The combination of diagrams, charts and side-by-side photos makes Dessert Course a surprisingly engaging read, despite the volume of information.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, there are plenty of recipes that will have you reaching for your apron. This isn’t the kind of book full of unique flavour combinations or ingredients. Instead, you will find a strong selection of classic cookies, pies, cakes and breads.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Delwiche has a talent for making scientific concepts approachable. Add a few handy diagrams, flowcharts and delectable photos into the mix and you could easily find yourself whiling away the hours absorbed in how to transform a Classic Cheesecake into a Cotton (Japanese) Cheesecake, Chewy Sugar Cookies into Snickerdoodles, or the effect of using baking powder vs bicarbonate of soda. With other writers, this could become rather weighty. However, such is the style and structure of the book, all the information feels accessible and highly readable.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Part of Delwiche’s philosophy is that you don’t need speciality ingredients to become a good baker. All the recipes feature affordable ingredients you should easily be able to find in your local supermarket. Having said that, Dessert Course is designed to give you the skills to bake with confidence and understand a recipe, so you could get creative and include more extravagant ingredients once you have mastered the basics.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There is a good mix of basic and more involved recipes. Naturally, Soda Bread is easier than Kouig-amann. However, Delwich ensures each one is clearly explained with flow charts highlighting the similarities and differences with other similar recipes (e.g. highlighting the links between Bagels and Pretzels), alongside highly informative images which clearly show the effects of different glazes, raising agents and/or how to tell if your bake is underbaked, overbaked or just right. Each recipe also includes a prep time, active time and cooking time at the top. Ideal for helping you plan how to fit a baking session into your day.

Stand-out recipes?
Don’t miss the Chewy Browned Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies or Fudgy Brownies (there are also options for ‘Chewy’ and ‘Cakey’ versions, if you prefer). The Cinnamon Coffee Cake was also a hit.

How often will I cook from this book?
As often as you want to bak. There are recipes for every occasion with all sorts of classic cakes, biscuits and breads (not forgetting the delectable desserts and pastries).vWhether you want to make up a batch of simple Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies, or master the art of buttery Brioche.

Any negatives?
It is very geared towards an American audience. Not a problem if you enjoy Snickerdoodles and Pumpkin Pie, but don’t expect to find the secret to the perfect Sticky Toffee Pud.

Should I buy the book?
If you enjoy cookbooks that delve deeper into the whys and hows of recipes, Dessert Course is the book for you. In some ways it is similar to SIFT (Nicola Lamb), although the recipes focus more on popular American crowd pleasing classics (compared to Lamb’s array of more innovative, elevated ideas).

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Matt Adlard, Nicola Lamb and Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: 4 stars
Buy this book: Dessert Course: Lessons in the Whys and Hows of Baking
£27.00, DK.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

The Potato Book by Poppy O’Toole – Cookbook Review

Social media sensation Poppy O’Toole, A.K.A ‘The Potato Queen’ is back with her fourth cookbook. Having previously published best-selling books focusing on simplified cookery and air fryers, O’Toole has returned to the ingredient that made her famous: the humble spud.

What is the USP?
Your ultimate guide to potatoes with a 21st-century twist. Among the book’s 101 recipes, you will find all the classics, plus options to add an extra ‘something’ (like the ultra-indulgent ‘Three Cheese Mash’ loaded with a glorious combination of gooey mozzarella, Cheddar and Red Leicester, or umami-rich ‘Marmite Roast Potatoes’). There are also plenty of potato ideas from around the world, like ‘Latkes’ and ‘Batata Harra’ (a spicy Lebanese cubed potato dish), as well as more modern options like ‘French Onion Fondants’ and ‘Smashed Potato Nachos’. O’Toole’s relaxed, approachable manner make this a fun and celebratory book. Think of it as the potato bible for those who enjoy cooking, but don’t take themselves too seriously.

What will I love?
The photography is modern, eye-catching and enticing. You can almost taste the crispiness of the latkes just by looking at the photo, while the shot of the aligot will send you hurrying to your fridge to see if you have the ingredients.

The variety of O’Toole’s ideas is impressive. Not only does she cover all the classics, she also branches out with creative twists to bring something different. Think ‘Christmas Mash with Crispy Sprouts and Bacon’, ‘Hash Brown Bhajis’ and ‘Caramelised Onion and Cream Cheese Hasselbacks’.

Is it good bedtime reading?
From a literary perspective, no. Each recipe has a very readable and relatable introduction, brimming with O’Toole’s chatty warmth and enthusiasm. However, this isn’t one of those books filled with lengthy essays or musings on potatoes.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Obviously, potatoes are the main ingredient, but the recipes are refreshingly free from expensive or difficult-to-source ingredients. You should be able to find everything you need in your local supermarket.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There is a range of recipes from incredibly fuss-free and straightforward (‘Classic Skin-on Wedges’) to the more time-consuming (‘Pommes Dauphine’). Not forgetting O’Toole’s infamous ‘15-hour Potatoes’ (of which you will find several versions in this book). However, due to O’Toole’s approachable, accessible writing style, even the notionally more complex dishes are achievable for less confident cooks.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Masala Chips’ are dangerously addictive, while the ‘Cheesy Leeky Mashed Potato’ is simply delicious (do try it next time you are making regular mash). The ‘Croquettes’ are another winner; packed full of flavour thanks to the combination of smoky chorizo and salty, tangy goats cheese. Do heed O’Toole’s advice and let them cool slightly before digging in though. Don’t miss the ‘Chimichurri Smashed Potatoes’ which, as O’Toole recommends, make an excellent side for steak.

How often will I cook from this book?
That depends on how often you want to eat potatoes. Given that they are an affordable, popular ingredient and O’Toole has included a wide variety of ideas for every palate and occasion, the answer is ‘regularly’. Whether you want a show-stopping potato side for a special occasion (like the ‘Ultimate Chicken and Truffle Pomme Purée’), crunchy snack (the spiced ‘Extra Crispy Smashed Spuds’ are a must-try) or soul-soothing comforting spud (the rich and indulgent ‘Tartiflette’ ticks every box), the chances are, The Potato Book will have what you need.

Any negatives?
It would be helpful to outline the prep time and cook time for each recipe at the top. It also would be beneficial to specify if dishes are vegetarian and/or vegan or highlight when ingredients need to be adjusted (for example, certain cheeses like Taleggio and, sometimes, Comté, which contain animal rennet).

Should I buy the book?
Yes. The Potato Book is a must-have for anyone who enjoys potatoes and, dare I say it, even those who are yet to understand their versatility. It’s a fun, modern and exciting book that will change how you perceive the humble spud.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities. Especially anyone who is remotely interested in potatoes and wants to learn new ways to enjoy them.
Great for fans of: MOB
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Poppy Cooks: The Potato Book: 101 recipes from the Potato Queen
£22.00, Bloomsbury

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Andre Simon Awards 2024: Lennie Ware interview and reviews of the shortlisted books

The André Simon are the UK’s most prestigious annual awards for food and drink books. This year’s shortlist, comprising seven food and four drink books, sets a new record, with the majority of nominees being female writers (7 out of 11). For the first time, vegetarian books take centre stage, with a record number of three veggie cookbooks. The food category also includes a practical reference guide to the key building blocks of baking, a historical guide to French cheese and a deep-dive into the most controversial original superfood – milk. The drinks books showcase some exceptional, landmark works, from the most extensive history of the Australian wine industry ever written, to the world’s first dedicated guide to perry, pear cider. Here we are focusing on the food book award and shortlist with an interview with this year’s food assessor Lennie Ware and reviews of all the shortlisted food books.

An interview with Andre Simon Awards 2024 Food Book Assessor Lennie Ware

Interview by Stephen Rötzsch Thomas

Lennie Ware is one of Britain’s most atypical food influencers. Where most in the field are brash twenty-somethings making short-form videos for Tiktok and Instagram, Lennie is a London mum who happened to raise a pop star: Jessie Ware. In 2017, the mother-and-daughter team launched a podcast together. On Table Manners, the pair invite celebrity guests to their home for a meal and a conversation. Lennie’s cooking has served as the backdrop for chats with the likes of Keir Starmer, Robert De Niro, Saoirse Ronan and Cher. The podcast’s success led to a popular cookbook and, this year, Lennie joins the team at the Andre Simon food and drink book awards as their food book assessor. We caught up with Lennie to talk about the awards, and her own experiences with cookbooks through the years.

What was the first cookbook you owned?
Oh, god. I don’t know. My mum never used cookbooks when I was growing up – she just did it. I’m Jewish, and Jewish people know how to cook! We’d have chicken soup, matzo balls. Though my matzo balls now are far better than my mum’s. Hers were like little cannonballs!

I remember having a Robert Carrier book, which I think was my first. And then I was given a copy of a Reader’s Digest book called The Cookery Year when I got married. It was wonderful – I still have it. Food wasn’t so much of an art then. It was all about how you made the most of the ingredients.

Do you find that you rely on cookbooks more now – it seems to me that you cook a real variety of things for your guests on Table Manners?
Yes, I do. I subscribe to different online recipe sites – New York Times Cooking, and Feast – and when I know what I want to do I search for it there, or in cookbooks. Sometimes, if I’m being clever, and know an exact dish that I’ve had before, I can recreate it.

I had a culinary disaster at the weekend. I made an Alison Roman recipe – salmon and citrus – and it was absolutely gorgeous. But then I thought ‘I’m really going to show off’, and made chocolate fondant for dessert. I overfilled the pots and it went everywhere.

You released your cookbook with Jessie during the pandemic-
Yes! It was so long ago now. The release was the saddest day. We had a book launch planned, and everything was ready. We had leopard print balloons – my favourite – and Cosmopolitans, but we had to make the call and cancel it on the day. It was right at the end of March, the last minute before lockdown.

When you were writing the book with Jessie, were there any other cookbooks that informed what you were doing?
Oh, no! No, not at all. If I could write any book it’d be Jerusalem (the 2012 book by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, who each grew up on different sides of the city). I love the whole concept, and the coming together of the two authors. If only we could all write Jerusalem. It was such hard work writing the Table Manners cookbook. I think it almost broke my and Jessie’s relationship for good!

How did you approach your work assessing the food books for the Andre Simon awards this year?
I have all these cookbooks in my room now – I look like a hoarder! They started coming in dribs and drabs, and I would look through each of them, making note of the ones I liked so I could go back to them. My longlist was more than thirty books long! I’ve been very interested in how many vegan and vegetarian books there have been. I’m known for being very anti-vegetarian on the podcast sometimes! But it’s something that I – that we all – need to get better at. I’ve really been enjoying going through those.

Some books are harder than others to assess. There are books from specific restaurants – for specific cuisines that I’m not very knowledgeable about. It’s hard to evaluate when you don’t have a reference to the food they’re covering. I love so many of the books, though. I’m going to keep all the ones that made my longlist. All of the books in both the longlist and the shortlist are worthy winners. It’s been so difficult choosing.

You must be very familiar with the shortlist by now.
Ned Palmer’s book, A Cheesemonger’s Tour de France, is so cute. The cover is wonderful. And I was already very familiar with Meera Sodha and Anna Jones. When we were making our cookbook we started taking pictures in Anna’s studio before we decided to move the shoot into our homes for authenticity. Sift is fantastic, too – have you seen it?

We have a few of us covering the different books – I haven’t had a chance to sit down with Sift. I already had Easy Wins by Anna Jones and have just been reading through Sunlight & Breadcrumbs.
Oh, I love Sunlight & Breadcrumbs! It’s absolutely beautiful. We had Brandi Carlile on the podcast recently, and I realised she lives in Seattle, where Renee Erickson has all her restaurants. I need to tell Brandi to go to them.

One final question – if you could keep just one recipe from a cookbook, what would it be? Not one of your own – I’m sure that would be your chicken soup and matzo balls.
Yes, it would. That’s an impossible question! I don’t know. I think it would have to be something from Jerusalem, but I couldn’t tell you which without going through the whole book. There are other great recipes I love – when we had Leigh-Anne from Little Mix on the podcast, I made a chicken shawarma that tasted just like when you buy it, and there’s a spiced chicken dish I made Laura Mvula. I make turkey meatballs with parmesan in the centre, that my grandchildren love. But I think it’d have to be a recipe from Jerusalem.

The Food Award Winning Book

Sift by Nicola Lamb

reviewed by Sophie Knox Richmond

Who is Nicola Lamb? Nicola Lamb is a recipe developer and pastry chef famed for hosting sell-out pastry parties with her pop-bakery, Lark!, and collaborating with the likes of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Soft & Swirly and Toklas Bakery. She honed her skills at some of London and New York’s top bakeries including Happy Endings, Dominique Ansel and Little Bread Pedlar, and has seen her work featured in publications including The Guardian, Vogue and ES Magazine. She is also the author of Kitchen Projects (her weekly substack newsletter with over 50,000 dedicated subscribers) where she delves deep into the world of desserts, baking and pastries, sharing behind-the-scenes glimpses of the recipe development process and explaining the ins and outs of what, how and why a recipe works. From the lowdown on the ultimate chocolate chip cookies to how to craft beautifully buttery brioche (not forgetting more adventurous ideas like wild garlic bagels, pistachio gateau basque and caramelised white chocolate, malt and hazelnut spread), it is little wonder the Observer declared it an ‘incredible resource’. SIFT is her debut cookbook.

What is SIFT’s USP? Described as the ‘essential new baking bible’ SIFT promises to take the ‘fear out of failure’ with its collection of over 100 bakes. The first half of the book is focused on theory, featuring key elements and techniques, accompanied by illustrations and diagrams, designed to explore the hows and whys of baking. The second half is dedicated to the recipes, organised by how long you have available to bake, whether that be an afternoon (‘Bread and Butter Pudding with Caramel Mandarins’), a day (‘Rhubarb and Custard Crumb Cake) or weekend (‘Mocha Passionfruit Opera Cake’). Felicity Cloake summed it up perfectly as: ‘Everything you ever wanted to know about baking but were too afraid to ask.’

What will I love? This is the ultimate book for anyone remotely interested in baking no matter your skill level. It lays the foundations for novices to build on and professionals will find inspiring new ideas to develop their own recipes as well as reference points for substitutions.

The first half offers a fascinating look at the main ingredients at the heart of baking (e.g. flour, sugar, eggs and fat) before exploring the techniques that bring them to life (prepare to learn all about texture, colour and rising). The numerous diagrams and ‘technical overview’ help ensure the information remains clear and accessible. Each recipe highlights the techniques used so you can refer back to the theory chapters, identify links between different recipes, and work your way up to more complex ones as you grow in confidence.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, Lamb’s meticulous testing and flair for flavour means the recipes alone are enough to get you grabbing your apron. Expect original sweet and savoury cakes, tarts, biscuits, pies, breads and desserts. Classics like Victoria Sandwich Cake are transformed into ‘Roasted Strawberry Victoria Sponge’, and ‘Baked Lemon Custard Brûlée’ gives Crème Brûlée a zesty modern twist.

Is it good bedtime reading? Lamb’s highly readable writing, coupled with the handy diagrams is likely to leave you staying up into the early hours learning about the ins and outs of ‘starch gelatinisation in action’ and ‘coagulation of eggs’ (I promise you, it isn’t as weighty as it sounds). You can dip in and out at your leisure, focusing on the elements you wish to learn more about at any given time. All the recipes include a short introduction too.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients? Some fruit purées and pistachio paste might need to be bought online unless you want to make your own (a recipe is included for the latter). Dried hibiscus flowers may also need hunting down but plenty of other sorbet flavours are given instead.

How easy are the recipes to follow? The book is designed for all abilities. Not all the recipes are easy but Lamb has gone to great lengths to ensure they are achievable and the processes are as clear as possible. Each recipe contains a time plan and specifies the equipment and techniques used. There are helpful notes on what to look for at each stage as well as useful tips, shortcuts and instructions on how to prep in advance and/or reheat. It couldn’t be more user-friendly if it tried.

Stand-out recipes? ‘Brown Butter Banana Cookies’ are quick, easy and incredibly moreish, ‘Ricotta, Marmalade and Hazelnut Chocolate-chip Cake’ is a must-make for chocolate-orange fans, and ‘Lemon Basque Cheesecake with Sticky Lemons’ is a beautifully balanced pud for any occasion. Banoffee-lovers shouldn’t miss the ‘Banana Pudding Pie’, and the ‘Tiramichoux’ are utterly inspired and worth the effort. On the savoury side, ‘Olive Oil Brie-oche with Roasted Grapes, Honey and Thyme’ sounds particularly delicious.

How often will I cook from this book? There is something for every mood, occasion and season so you could easily find yourself baking from this all year round, whether you are making a birthday cake for a loved one, a teatime treat to curb mid-afternoon cravings, or a show-stopping dessert for a special occasion. There’s a plethora of savoury delights ideal for lunches and suppers too.

Any negatives? None. SIFT is designed to be the ultimate baking and pastry bible and Lamb has well and truly nailed the brief.

Should I buy the book? A resounding yes. Whether you want to delve deep into the science of the Maillard reaction, or simply want to up your baking game, SIFT is an exceptional book and a must-have addition to your cookbook collection.

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book:
SIFT: The Elements of Great Baking
£30.00, Ebury Press

The John Avery Award Winner

A Cheesemonger’s Tour de France – Ned Palmer

The John Avery Award was awarded to Ned Palmer for his book A Cheesemonger’s Tour de France. In his latest book, the former André Simon nominee wends his way around the country’s regions, meeting remarkable cheesemongers and showing how a French cheese board offers genuine insights into La Belle République. Every French cheese carries a trace of the place where it was made – its history, identity and landscape. Sometimes that’s physical, as the hard texture of Comté echoes its mountainous home in the Jura. Other times it’s about power and politics – Brie swelling to royal dimensions due to its proximity to the French court or Camembert gaining national status after being supplied to First World War soldiers.

Food assessor Lennie Ware said “I absolutely adore this book and have bought it for friends who love France and who love cheese. A tour of France and a guide to cheesemaking of some of our favourite cheeses in different regions of France. Ned’s personal touches are present throughout this travelogue and his vast wealth of knowledge really shines through. I love cheese and this book made me want to head off on a tour de France myself.”
(Full review coming soon)
Buy this book
£18.99, Profile Books

The Shortlisted books

Dinner – Meera Sodha

Reviewed by Nick Dodds

The saying may go that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, but we all know it’s dinner. Breakfast is about function; dinner’s about form. Breakfast has rules and regulations; dinner has ease and abundance. Breakfast reminds you to pack your bags, finish that thing you’ve been meaning to do, and be home by dark. Dinner asks how your day’s been, nods intently, and warms you from within.

Meera Sodha knows this, and so she’s dedicated an entire cookbook, Dinner, to the actual most important meal of the day. It’s Sodha’s fourth cookbook, following East, two Indian-focused books, and her regular column in The Guardian.

Dinner, however, became Sodha’s way of reigniting her love of cooking and food after suffering a breakdown. In the introduction, she writes about her struggles with mental health and losing her passion for food. To aid her recovery, she began cooking for pleasure rather than necessity, viewing her ability to put dinner on the table as a superpower to help her navigate “the darkness.”

Dinner is the collection of recipes that followed this difficult period, and it should come as no surprise to anyone familiar with Sodha’s work that it’s brilliant. I thought East was a masterpiece, and the state of my copy is testament to that: pages stuck together with sauce, bindings frayed at the edges after being hauled from the shelf for the umpteenth time, and errant scraps of paper acting as bookmarks scattered throughout. Dinner is beginning to look much the same way.

Recipes are indexed in three ways: by ingredient, by season, and by type of dish or speed of cooking. I often find myself dipping into the book on these terms, choosing recipes based on the time or ingredients available. And with the exception of an agave syrup here or a brown rice miso there, most ingredients are easily available in supermarkets.

Almost every recipe is worthy of mention. Where to begin? The book is packed with the sort of food Sodha has made her hallmark: diverse, creative dishes from across the globe with vegetables at the centre.

To name a few: the Iraqi White Bean Stew drizzled with coriander and lemon oil; Oyster Mushroom Larb with Sticky Rice; the Baked Butter Paneer; the entire curry section; Aubergines Roasted in Satay Sauce; and Butter Beans in Salsa Verde. Nestled among them are more playful interpretations of familiar dishes, like Pineapple Fried Rice, Marmite Risotto with Tomato and Crispy Chilli Butter, and Vodka Gochujang Pasta.

For me, the standout recipe is the Portobello Mushroom Pancakes with Hoisin Sauce, a dish that perfectly captures what’s so special about Sodha’s food and this book. It’s personal, inspired by her dad buying too many mushrooms; it’s inventive, with homemade hoisin sauce and a clever reimagining of a typically meat-based dish; and it’s a joy to eat – communal, messy, and utterly delicious. Dinner is a compelling reminder of the restorative power of cooking, and this, in itself, feels like a superpower.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Beginner home cooks
Cookbook Review Rating: Five stars

Dinner by Meera Sodha
£27, Fig Tree, Penguin Random House
Buy this book

Easy Wins – Anna Jones

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Who is Anna Jones?
Anna Jones is an award-winning cook, food writer and pioneer of modern plant based food. She celebrates the joys of food – with vegetables firmly placed at the centre of the table. In recent years her books have taken a bolder stance on sustainability. In her fourth cookbook One: Pot, Pan, Planet (2021) she dedicated some chapters to educating readers on how to become more eco-friendly. Her recipes take simple, often side-lined, ingredients and transform them into innovative and exciting dishes inspired by cuisines from around the world.

What is Easy Wins’ USP?
Based around 12 hero ingredients (lemons, olive oil, vinegar, mustard, tomatoes, capers, chilli, tahini, garlic, onions, miso and peanuts), Easy Wins promises 125 simple, seasonal, recipes to help you create delicious, veg-centred, dishes all year round.

As Jones explains in the introduction: ‘Simple ingredients, when shown a little bit of love and attention, come together to make more than the sum of their parts. This to me is an Easy Win. A little moment of kitchen alchemy that reassures me. Recipes that are reliable sources of joy in a world that is ever changing.’

What will I love?
A lot. This is a beautiful book full of stunning photography and enticing, ‘cookable’, recipes for every mood and occasion. Jones has made a concerted effort to utilise lesser-known ingredients in several recipes. Instead of asking the reader to buy a whole jar or pot of something only to leave it lingering in the cupboard after one outing, she gives multiple ideas for how to use it up.

Nearly every recipe is accompanied by a photograph which helps give a visual guide for those who like to see what the final dish looks like. Each beautifully shot images manages to be both striking and achievable at the same time.

Flexibility is a running theme of the book; many of the recipes can be adapted for vegans and there are explanations on how to successfully swap ingredients, while still producing a delicious result. Jones includes invaluable advice on how to use flavour and texture to enhance any dish and take your cooking to the next level.

Is it good bedtime reading?
If you are interested in seasonality, eating more sustainably, and learning more about how to make the most out of every meal, then hell yes. There is a personal, heartfelt introduction, followed by ‘Golden Rules for Easy Wins’ and informative guides to ‘Planet-friendly Cooking’ and ‘Salt and Seasoning’. There’s also interesting and useful advice on ‘Vegetarian Flavour Swaps’, ‘How to Cook Flexibly’, ‘Layering Flavour’ and ‘Layering Texture’. The ‘Vegetarian Flavour Swaps’ pages are particularly helpful for those looking to incorporate more meat-free dishes into their diet, with paragraph per recommendation to explain why it works, instead of merely offering a bullet-pointed list.

Each chapter begins with a mini-homage to its hero ingredient, followed by information on different types, complimentary flavours, storage tips and which varieties to buy; useful for experimenting with new recipes even beyond Jones’s book. Sections on ‘Herbs’ and ‘Spices’ provide handy information on flavour profiles, origins, flavour pairings, recommended uses and substitutions.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Some ingredients, like Amalfi lemons, can be tricky (or expensive) to get hold of, but Jones has gone out of her way to offer advice on substitutions as much as possible.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Ingredient quantities are listed in the recipe as well as in the ingredient list so you can keep track as you go along. Admittedly there is the usual ‘juice of a lemon’ instead of a specified quantity, but one of the aims of the book is to encourage you to become a more intuitive cook and taste as you go along. The introductions are also genuinely helpful and full of useful anecdotes about each recipe – as well as advice on how to adjust them with seasonal ingredients.

Stand-out recipes?
Where to start? One Pot Pasta al Limone (an ingenious dish which relies on the starchy pasta cooking water to make a creamy, zesty pasta sauce), Double Lemon Pilaf with Buttery Almonds (a sublime combination of taste and texture – worth making for the buttery almonds alone), Double Lemon Cake with Streusel Topping (deliciously moist and refreshing – perfect for pudding or with coffee), Cheese and Pickle Roast Potatoes with Chilli-dressed Leaves (a must-try recipe for anyone who likes big flavours), Chipotle Aubergine Parmigiana (wonderfully smoky and cheesy – can also be made vegan-friendly), Confit Garlic Cauliflower Cheese (a decadent side dish for a special occasion), Lemongrass Dal with Garlic and Curry Leaves (subtly spiced, aromatic and soothing – comfort in a bowl), Miso Rarebit with Asian Herbs (an umami-packed twist on the classic – sure to become a firm favourite) and Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies (gooey, chocolatey and simply one of the best cookie recipes I have ever made).

How often will I cook from this book?
Keen cooks will find themselves reaching for the book on a regular basis due to the variety of recipes suitable for every occasion. Think mezze sharing dishes like Smoky Aubergines with Tahini and Spiced Tomatoes, easy lunches like Sesame and Chilli Oil Noodles, flavour-packed sides including Corn on the Cob with Caper and Herb Crumbs, simple suppers like Traybake Lemon Dal with Pickled Green Chillies, quick desserts like Miso Banana Caramel Whip (ready in 15 minutes!), comforting cakes like the Double Ginger Cake with Lemon Crème Fraiche, and beautiful breads like Olia’s Pampushky (a garlic and parsley Ukrainian bread traditionally served with borscht).

Any negatives?
This is a plant-based book so a passionate meat eater may feel it’s not for them. However, it’s a testament to Jones’ skill and creativity that none of the recipes feel incomplete due to the lack of meat. In fact, many work as side dishes that could be served alongside meat.

Should I buy the book?
A resounding ‘yes’. Easy Wins is one of those cookbooks that you will find yourself returning to again and again – not just for the recipes, but for the culinary advice. Jones writes with genuine passion and this book feels very personal. Her style is considered, almost conversational; encouraging, never dictatorial. Sustainability-focused cookbooks can be a bit too unattainable, but Easy Wins feels realistic and achievable. This is a guide to Jones’ approach to cooking and one that aims to provide you with the tools to build on the recipes, make them your own and become a more confident, sustainable, cook.

Cuisine: Plant based
Suitable for: Confident cooks and those who enjoy exploring different tastes, textures and cuisines – and have an interest in broadening their plant based recipe repertoire
Great for fans of: Claire Thomson (5 o’clock apron) and Meera Sodha
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: Easy Wins by Anna Jones
£28, Fourth Estate

Milk – Matthew Evans

A powerful, entertaining and, at times, eviscerating commentary on the most controversial of original superfoods.

Milk. It’s in our coffee, on our cereal. We see it in processed form–yoghurt, butter, cheese, skimmed and lactose free. It’s there in almond form, or made from oats or soy, and is as lauded as the ‘perfect’ food or lambasted as not fit for human consumption and a toxic planet killer, depending on who you trust. Which type you drink, whether you were raised on breastmilk, what you think of it, is affected by culture, biology and fashion. How you view it is driven by your gender and your politics, as well as your geography.

The miracle liquid has suffered an image problem. It has been used to keep people poor, to keep women subjugated, and to build corporate and medical careers. It’s been blamed for climate change, the breakdown of human health, and an enabler of the industrial revolution. From perfect food to pariah, milk’s role in life has often been debased.

Milk celebrates the majesty of this noble liquid, and delves into the pretenders to its throne, from formula to Mylk. It looks at the transformation of what a milk-producer eats into one of the most nutrient dense foods available, and how that can be transformed again into the butter, cheese and clotted cream that we know and love today. It’s an exploration of the science, history and politics of what makes mammals different from every other life form on earth.
(Taken from the book’s back cover. Full review coming soon)
Buy this book
£16.99, Murdoch Books

Sunlight & Breadcrumbs – Renee Erickson & Sara Dickerman

Reviewed by Stephen Rötzsch Thomas

What’s the USP? You’ve tried cooking at home. You’ve tried finding fulfillment through creative hobbies like crochet and watercolours. But have you tried exercising your creative muscles in the kitchen? That’s (sort of) the idea behind Renee Erickson’s third cookbook, Sunlight & Breadcrumbs.

Who wrote it? Erickson is a tremendously successful chef who oversees no less than six restaurants (each with distinctly nautical names) in the city of Seattle. But her arrival in the gastronomical world was less than conventional, and Erickson spent her academic years studying art in the city. She began working in a restaurant named Boat Street only as a means to fund her studies. At 25, she was offered the chance to buy the place. That initial dalliance with the art world continues to inform the approach Erickson takes to her food.

Is it good bedtime reading? Short essays scattered throughout the book attempt to tie together the idea of food and art. In one, Erickson contemplates the age-old question of how one can tell when a piece of art, or a dish is ‘done’. The cynics among us might think it’s very easy to tell when a meal is done – the empty plate is usually a good sign. Erickson, of course, is making the case for the perfect composition of the meal, arguing for simplicity. The recipes that follow immediately after include spaghetti with clams, creme fraiche and herbs (surely one of the most over-used combos in cookbooks right now), and very stripped back instructions for a pork loin sandwich that amounts more or less to: put some pork loin in a sandwich with a little mustard, a little onion, and a smidge of garlic. I don’t begrudge the instruction – her ideas make a good combo, and some folks just don’t have it in them to make a good sandwich without being told how to zhuzh it up. The question, though, is will those people be buying a book the purports to celebrate creativity in cooking? If you are incapable of looking at a pork sandwich and thinking ‘what if I add a little mayo’, what hope do you have for a spirited attempt at innovative meal prep?

Here, I think, lies the great fallacy at the heart of this book. Erickson states that ‘at it’s heart, cooking… is a highly personal interpretation of the world around us’, and then offers very specific recipes that represent specifically her view of that world. This might work better if there were clearer lessons in creativity to take away: techniques that open up new possibilities, ideas on how to create unexpected flavour pairings, or simply insights into how one asks what their personal experience of food is and how best to capture it in a dish of their own making. Instead, we have chapters fronted by titles like ‘vegetables are remarkable’ and ‘everything tastes better outdoors’. These ideas, so broad and so well suited to little tin signs for might buy in your local garden centre, simply don’t live up to the premise of the book. If Erickson backed up the chapters with ways to harness our ideas around these foods, there would very possibly be room for a very good cookbook here. Instead, it feels as though the authors (Sara Dickerman is credited as a co-writer) have a concept and a collection of recipes, but no way to connect the two coherently.

How often will I cook from the book? For all its faults in offering a meaningful path to creativity, there are plenty of delicious dishes waiting for those who are happy to let Erickson provide the innovation. Many of the recipes will be accessible for those looking for a quick weeknight dinner, from the ‘puffy casserole’ of the Sweet Corn Flan with Spinach, Beecher’s Cheddar, and Marjoram to the 1970s Mom’s Mayo-Slathered Salmon.

It’s also a simple book to work from – clear and crisp in design and instruction. Occasional tips at the bottom of recipes offer hints of the book’s premise, offering ideas on how to extend the concept of a dish beyond the recipe provided – though these are too few to make a real impact on how one cooks.

Killer recipes: Mushroom Duxelles on Olive Oil-Soaked, Garlic-Rubbed Toast, Grilled Lamb with Aleppo Pepper, Whipped Tahini, and Nectarines

Should I buy it? The case for buying Erickson’s book is actually pretty strong: there are plenty of interesting recipes in here that feel genuinely unique – the Roasted Castelfranco with Soft Scrambled Eggs, Parmigiano and Balsamic Vinegar is a gorgeous example, bringing unexpected life to radicchio. But the book does itself a disservice by trying to present itself as a more innovative title than it has the means to deliver. Take the subtitle, Making Food with Creativity and Curiosity with a pinch of salt, and understand that while there is plenty of sunlight in the recipes, the breadcrumbs are the few scattered moments of genuine insight.

Cuisine: American
Suitable for: Beginner and confident home cooks
Cookbook Review Rating: Three stars

Sunlight & Breadcrumbs by Renee Erickson & Sara Dickerman
£26.99, Abrams
Buy this book

Tenderheart – Hetty Lui McKinnon

Who is Hetty Lui McKinnon?
Hetty Lui McKinnon is a Chinese Australian cook, food writer and podcast host famed for her love of vegetables. She regularly contributes to The New York Times, Bon Appetit and Epicurious.com, and has also been featured in Food52 and The Guardian. She stays in touch with fans via her social media @hettymckinnon and enormously successful Substack newsletter To Vegetables with Love. Tenderheart is her fifth cookbook and follows To Asia, With Love (2021), the award-winning Family: New Vegetarian Comfort Food to Nourish Every Day (2019), Neighbourhood: Hearty Salads and Plant-Based Recipes from Home and Abroad (2017), and Community: Salad Recipes from Arthur Street Kitchen (2014).

What is Tenderheart’s USP?
Described by Nigella Lawson as ‘A love letter to vegetables… Almost a memoir through recipes, this truly special book speaks to the soul as much as to the stomach,’ Tenderheart is as much about the stories as it is about the recipes. So often, vegetable and plant-focused books can be overly preachy, yet Tenderheart focuses on nourishment, nurture and the unbreakable bonds formed through food. The 180 innovative recipes focus on 22 fruits and vegetables with unique flavour combinations and ideas designed to change how you approach not only fruit and vegetables, but the role food and cooking play in life and relationships.

What will I love?
Firstly, the writing. McKinnon writes beautifully with genuine emotion and passion. You can easily get lost in her stories about her father, childhood mealtimes or love for a particular ingredient.

The creativity is also particularly impressive. Recipes like the ‘Broccoli Forest Loaf’ and ‘Chocolate Aubergine Brownie’ sound unusual, but are utterly delicious. It is also a very reader-friendly book. Chapters are organised by the main vegetable so it is easy to find inspiration for a certain ingredient. Recipes contain detailed notes on how to make them vegan and/or gluten-free, if possible, alongside vegetable swaps so you can adjust according to your own taste and enjoy them year round.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Tenderheart is part cookbook, part food memoir. You can’t help but become immersed in McKinnon’s evocative stories as she shares the history behind each recipe. Each chapter features an introduction focusing on the particular vegetable and each recipe has a highly readable and engaging introduction so you could easily while away a few hours browsing through the book.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Yes and no. As long as you have a reasonably well stocked larder, and access to a larger supermarket you should be ok. Asian ingredients feature heavily, so you need to have the basics. There is the odd mention of things like Sichuan peppercorns, gochugaru and square wonton wrappers, but they aren’t too difficult to find in larger supermarkets or online. Plus, McKinnon is generous with her advice on substitutions so you can easily adapt recipes to suit what you already have at home.

Having said that, one of the chapters is dedicated to taro which is tricky to find in the UK. However, many of the recipes can be made with a different vegetable, as the recipes are designed to help you understand how flavours and textures work. Thus, you can experiment with different ingredients and make them your own.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The recipes range in complexity. Some have instructions on how to make your own noodles (but you could easily use shop-bought) and ‘Broccoli Wontons with Umami Crisp’ involves making your own wontons, making it more of a ‘project’ recipe. In contrast, ‘Stir-fried Lettuce’ and ‘Soy Butter Bok Choy Pasta’ can be whipped up in minutes.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Carrot, Peanut Satay Ramen’ is a must-try. A wonderfully warming dish that is ideal for soothing the soul on cold and chilly evenings. Meanwhile, if you are a kale-sceptic, do try the ‘Cauliflower and Kale Pesto Pasta Salad with Burrata’, it might just change your mind. The ‘Crispy Potato Wedges with Lentils and Guasacaca Sauce’ (homemade wedges with a creamy avocado sauce) is another winner, full of fresh flavours.

On the sweet front, the previously mentioned ‘Chocolate Aubergine Brownie’ is a revelation – irresistibly nutty, fudgy and chocolatey all at once (and has the added bonus of being vegan-friendly without using any expensive egg replacers).

How often will I cook from this book?
This is a huge cookbook with plenty of recipes to choose from for almost every mood and occasion. ‘Pea, Egg-Drop Macaroni Soup’ is ideal when you want a nourishing meal using affordable ingredients you are likely to have at home, while the ‘Cheesy Kale and Rice Cake Bake’ is perfect comfort food (I highly recommend trying it with gnocchi if you can’t find rice cake sticks). Quick and easy meals are covered by the likes of ‘Cabbage and Kimchi Okonomiyaki’, while the ‘Cabbage and Kimchi Rolls’ take a bit more effort. There are also several baking recipes using vegetables if you are looking for new ways to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Any negatives?
The cover is an acquired taste and doesn’t really do justice to the recipes inside. If you aren’t keen on Asian flavours, you may feel that the majority of the recipes aren’t for you and die-hard meat fans might not be overly enthusiastic about the book either.

On first reading, some of the flavour combinations might feel a bit too ‘out there’ for more conservative cooks, but have faith, give a few a go and you might just be pleasantly surprised.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Tenderheart is a beautifully written cookbook full of warmth, love and nurture. The kind of book that nourishes the soul as well as the stomach. McKinnon has gone the extra mile to ensure the recipes are innovative and exciting yet still accessible. Put simply, Tenderheart will revolutionise how you approach fruit and vegetables. It’s the ideal book for anyone looking to expand their plant-based food repertoire.

Cuisine: Plant-based (most with an Asian twist)
Suitable for: Open-minded cooks keen to explore new ideas
Great for fans of: Anna Jones and Nigel Slater
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Tenderheart: A Book About Vegetables and Unbreakable Family Bonds
£35, Bluebird

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Supper with Charlie Bigham by Charlie Bigham – Cookbook Review

Charlie Bigham, the iconic premium food brand, has released its first cookbook Supper with Charlie Bigham. Written by Charlie Bigham himself (yes, there really is a Charlie Bigham, it isn’t a fictional character), the book promises over 100 relaxed fuss-free recipes to suit a host of supper occasions from fun family celebrations to easy midweek meals.

What will I love?
The variety of dishes on offer for flexitarian family food and entertaining. Recipes include starters and canapés, mains for two, four, six or many (with advice on scaling up or down), vegetable sides for sharing and simple puddings (oh, and cocktails too!). Classic favourites like ‘Breton Chicken with Chive Mornay Sauce’, ‘The Ultimate Lasagne’ and ‘Beef Bourguignon’ are all there, but so are a host of more modern ideas such as ‘Slow-cooked Shoulder of Lamb with Marmite’ and ‘Penne with Parmesan, Spinach and Courgette’.

Overall, the book feels very personal. The recipe intros all feel like you are sitting down chatting with Bingham himself as he shares the stories and anecdotes behind each one. The photography is also particularly enticing. Laid back, but not messy, they do an excellent job of ‘selling’ the dishes, while also making them feel approachable.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes. There is an introduction from Bingham where he shares the story of his life through food, followed by an insight into his kitchen and how he likes to cook (all well worth reading). Each recipe also has its own introduction (mentioned above). You could have a very enjoyable evening browsing through the pages finding inspiration for what to cook in the months ahead.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Most of the ingredients are available in larger supermarkets. Anything difficult to find is accompanied by alternatives. For example, you might struggle to get hold of Borettane onions for the ‘Beef Bourguignon’, but pearl onions are suggested instead. Equally, if you wanted to make the ‘Game Ragu’ you have the option of choosing rabbit, wild boar or venison (although you might need to head to the butchers or order online). The ‘Dynamite Broth with Salmon’ does have bonito flakes, but there are recommendations on where you can source them (or you could leave them out). Aside from that, you will have to go to a deli or health food shop to make the ‘Hunza Apricots with Whipped Pistachio Cream’ and a few of the dishes might require a trip to a fishmonger (or a fish counter).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The majority of the recipes are fairly straightforward and all are very well-explained (the ‘Mackerel Pâté does ask you to smoke your own, but there are also instructions using shop bought). Prep and cooking times are included at the start of each recipe with additional ‘Charlie’s tips’ included at the end. There is the odd recipe that requires flicking back and forth to a side mentioned on another page (e.g. the delicious ‘Tomato and Pepper Salsa’ listed with the ‘Griddled Squid’ is also recommended for the (also brilliant) ‘Bashed Chicken with Parmesan Breadcrumbs’). However, that is a small complaint. Quantities are given in both grams and ounces which is ideal for those who still use imperial measurements.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Smoked Haddock Gratin’ is a must-try, while the ‘Leg of Lamb of Lamb with Harissa and Chermoula’ is ideal for an alternative Sunday roast (especially alongside the suggested ‘Couscous with Apricots, Parsley and Red Onion’). The ‘Bashed Chicken with Parmesan Breadcrumbs’ is also now a firm favourite in our house. On the sweet front, the ‘Chocolate Torte with Caramelised Hazelnuts’ is a wonderfully rich and indulgent pud which will delight chocoholics. For something lighter, both the summer and winter ‘Poached Pears’ are delicious.

How often will I cook from this book?
Fairly often. It is one of those books you can rely on for every occasion, whether that be a simple weeknight supper, comforting pud or multi-course easy entertaining menu. There are a myriad of options suitable all-year round – think vibrant and fresh salads in the hazy heat of summer, rich and comforting stews and hotpots for chillier winter evenings.

Any negatives?
If you were expecting this to contain all the recipes for the Charlie Bigham dishes you buy in the shops, you might be a little disappointed. There are some, like the ‘Chicken Tikka Masala’ and ‘Ultimate Lasagne’. However, the much-loved Macaroni Cheese (and it’s even more indulgent cousin the Four Cheese Macaroni) are, sadly, absent.

The only other gripe would be on the (delicious) ‘Penne with Parmesan, Spinach and Courgette’ which is described as a ‘special vegetarian main course’ and a ‘celebration of Parmesan’. While the latter is most definitely true, by definition, Parmesan isn’t vegetarian as it contains animal rennet. While some vegetarians choose to be more relaxed around cheese, it would have been prudent if ‘Charlie’s Tip’ mentioned using a ‘Parmesan-style hard cheese’ to prevent hosts unwittingly serving a non-vegetarian dish to vegetarian friends and family.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is one of those cookbooks that has something for every mood or occasion. Whether you want something special for a dinner party, a cosy and comforting winter supper or a vibrant sharing salad for a summer barbecue, Supper with Charlie Bigham has got you covered.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Hairy Bikers and Mary Berry
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Supper with Charlie Bigham: Favourite food for family & friends
£26.00, Mitchell Beazley

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

What’s For Christmas Dinner? by Sarah Rossi – Cookbook Review

Sarah Rossi, AKA founder of the immensely popular Taming Twins website, is back with her latest cookbook What’s For Christmas Dinner?. Her previous bestselling books, What’s For Dinner? and What’s For Dinner in One Pot?, secured her spot as one of the ‘go-to’ cookery writers for easy, budget-friendly, family meals. Now she has turned her attention to the season of goodwill and cheer, promising to take the stress out of Christmas and help you become a master of meal planning. A tall order indeed.

What will I love?
If you are feeling overwhelmed by Christmas, Rossi has done all the hard work for you. What’s For Christmas Dinner? is the most comprehensive culinary guide to Christmas I have come across. Alongside recipes accompanied by colourful, enticing photos, there is information on planning, shopping lists, timings for the Big Day, additional equipment, ‘get ahead’ tips, guidance for different numbers, advice on leftovers; you name it, Rossi has thought about it. There’s even a section explaining how to adapt recipes for different diets that will be helpful for anyone expecting vegetarian, vegan, nut-free, gluten-free or dairy-free guests. The book isn’t just for Christmas, much of the advice (and many of the recipes) can be applied to entertaining throughout the year.

The festive favourites are all there including ‘Classic Roast Turkey with Herb Butter’, ‘Stress-free Roast Potatoes’ and ‘Make-ahead Gravy’ as well as more modern ideas such as a retro American-style ‘Hash Brown Breakfast Bake’, moreish ‘Cheese and Chutney Scones’ and indulgent ‘Christmas Brownies’ designed to use up any leftover chocolate from the sharing selections.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes and no. There is plenty to read on the planning front and each chapter includes an introduction and the recipes go into extensive detail with tips, where necessary. Just don’t expect nostalgic literary musings on the beauty of Christmas.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Every recipe features ingredients that are readily available in the supermarkets. Advice on substitutions is also given.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Rossi lives up to her reputation of making her recipes as fuss-free as possible. Think clear instructions, timings and prep-ahead tips.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Croissant Christmas Tree’ is a showstopping breakfast/brunch which can be adapted to use all sorts of spreads and the ‘Mushroom Wellingtons’ are a delicious veggie main course. The ‘Cheese and Tomato Tart’ is also a stand-out winner. On the pudding front, the ‘Chocolate Orange Pudding’ is a must-try, gloriously gooey with a decadent molten chocolate sauce. The ‘Christmas Tiramisu’, which swaps ladyfingers for panettone, is also delicious.

How often will I cook from this book?
You could very easily do all your festive cooking exclusively from What’s For Christmas Dinner?. Chapters cover everything from ‘Nibbles and Party Food’ and ‘Cosy Nights In’ to ‘Gorgeous Gifts’ and ‘Festive Feasts’ (not forgetting ‘Leftovers’ and ‘Christmas Breakfast’).

However, it isn’t a book purely reserved for Christmas. Many recipes can easily be enjoyed throughout the year with a few adjustments, especially if you entertain regularly. Who wouldn’t love the ‘Cheese and Pesto Straws’ for a cheesy snack or ‘Smashed Pea Crostini’ as a spring/summer party nibble?

Any negatives?
While this isn’t Nigel Slater’s The Christmas Chronicles with lengthy nostalgic musings on Christmas and the beauty of the festive season, it is hard to find a negative. What’s For Christmas Dinner? does exactly what it sets out to do. A fair few of the sweet treats (e.g. desserts and baking) are chocolatey but then it is Christmas after all and there are other sweet options like zesty ‘Lemon Pots’ and a stunning ‘Wreath Pavlova’ if you aren’t a chocoholic.

Should I buy the book?
If you are entertaining and looking for a book to help you ace the festive period, What’s For Christmas Dinner? is a must-buy. Less confident cooks will get the most out of it (think of it as a festive culinary bible), but Christmas cooking veterans will still find plenty of inspiration within the pages.

Cuisine: British festive with international influences
Suitable for: anyone who wants a helping hand in the kitchen this Christmas.
Great for fans of: Jamie Oliver and The Batch Lady
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: What’s For Christmas Dinner? by Sarah Rossi (@tamingtwins)
£22.00, Harper Collins

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain by Tom Kerridge Cookbook Review

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain Cookbook cover.

Tom Kerridge is surely a man who needs no introduction by now? For those of you who haven’t heard of him, he is the proprietor of several bars and restaurants including The Hand and Flowers (the first gastropub to receive 2 Michelin stars back in 2012) and The Coach (which secured its first Michelin star in 2018). His profile soared after appearing on Great British Menu in 2010 and has released cookbooks regularly ever since (including the bestselling Proper Pub Food, Outdoor Cooking and Pub Kitchen as well as more diet-friendly titles Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet and Tom Kerridge’s Fresh Start inspired by his own weight-loss journey).

If you haven’t eaten in one of his establishments or cooked from one of his books, you have probably seen him on television (where he regularly pops up in M&S adverts, stars in his own cookery shows and documentaries, and judges on Great British Menu), tried one of his M&S meals, attended a Pub in the Park food festival, or come across his campaigns championing the hospitality industry or fighting child food poverty (through Full Time Meals).

This time, Kerridge has turned his attention to Britain, or rather, British ingredients, promising 100 recipes that celebrate the best of what this country has to offer.

What will I love?
If you are interested in learning more about British produce, and how to make the most of them in your kitchen, you will find plenty to enjoy here. There are over 100 recipes – divided into chapters of ‘Vegetables’, ‘Fish & Shellfish’, ‘Meat & Poultry’, ‘Dairy’ and ‘Fruit’ – designed to mirror the key areas that make up the backbone of the British farming industry. Options are varied, ranging from lighter dish like ‘Asparagus, Poached Egg and Hollandaise’ to a hearty ‘Family Beef Mince Pie’. The photos are beautiful too.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes. The introduction spans several pages, offering an enthusiastic (and very persuasive) argument for the importance of British farming. Each chapter then begins with a short introduction and the recipes also all have their own introductions explaining Kerridge’s inspiration and/or offering helpful hints.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Although some recipes mention specific cheeses, there is nothing too obscure (more readily available alternatives are also given). There is a good balance in terms of affordability; while there are recipes for Tomahawk steak and other more expensive cuts of meat and fish, plenty of less extravagant ingredients are also featured.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The recipes range in ability, but the instructions are always clear, giving advice on what to look out for and tips on how to make certain processes easier. It would be helpful if recipe timings were included at the top.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Leek and Caerphilly Rarebit’ is wonderfully comforting, while the ‘Chicken Kyiv Dippers’ are a delicious snack (or simply a fun alternative to a classic Kyiv). Don’t miss the ‘Bacon and Mushrooms Eggs Benedict’ for an umami-rich twist on the brunch favourite and even kale avoiders could be converted by the ‘Creamy Kale Pasta with Crispy Parmesan’.

How often will I cook from this book?
There is a range of recipes for every eating occasion throughout the year: ‘Asparagus Pecorino and Lemon Pasta’ in spring, a suitably summer-y ‘Yoghurt and Apricot Parfait with Almond Praline’, a cosy, comforting autumnal ‘Blackberry, Pear and Apple Crumble’, and a warming winter ‘Turnip Gratin with Lincolnshire Poacher’. However, there is a greater emphasis on dishes geared more towards spring/summer cooking and entertaining.

Any negatives?
There are some lovely options for vegetarians (or recipes that could easily be adapted), but not many choices for vegans. The pudding options could also be more diverse, perhaps a result of the emphasis n produce available in the UK.

Should I buy the book?
If you are keen to cook more seasonally with local British ingredients, this book is perfect for you. It also offers helpful inspiration to make everyday recipes a bit more special.

Cuisine: International cuisine using British ingredients
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities.
Great for fans of: Hugh Fearnly-Whittingstall
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain
£25.00, Bloomsbury

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain aired on ITV in July 2024.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.