cookbook review

Supper with Charlie Bigham by Charlie Bigham – Cookbook Review

Charlie Bigham, the iconic premium food brand, has released its first cookbook Supper with Charlie Bigham. Written by Charlie Bigham himself (yes, there really is a Charlie Bigham, it isn’t a fictional character), the book promises over 100 relaxed fuss-free recipes to suit a host of supper occasions from fun family celebrations to easy midweek meals.

What will I love?
The variety of dishes on offer for flexitarian family food and entertaining. Recipes include starters and canapés, mains for two, four, six or many (with advice on scaling up or down), vegetable sides for sharing and simple puddings (oh, and cocktails too!). Classic favourites like ‘Breton Chicken with Chive Mornay Sauce’, ‘The Ultimate Lasagne’ and ‘Beef Bourguignon’ are all there, but so are a host of more modern ideas such as ‘Slow-cooked Shoulder of Lamb with Marmite’ and ‘Penne with Parmesan, Spinach and Courgette’.

Overall, the book feels very personal. The recipe intros all feel like you are sitting down chatting with Bingham himself as he shares the stories and anecdotes behind each one. The photography is also particularly enticing. Laid back, but not messy, they do an excellent job of ‘selling’ the dishes, while also making them feel approachable.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes. There is an introduction from Bingham where he shares the story of his life through food, followed by an insight into his kitchen and how he likes to cook (all well worth reading). Each recipe also has its own introduction (mentioned above). You could have a very enjoyable evening browsing through the pages finding inspiration for what to cook in the months ahead.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Most of the ingredients are available in larger supermarkets. Anything difficult to find is accompanied by alternatives. For example, you might struggle to get hold of Borettane onions for the ‘Beef Bourguignon’, but pearl onions are suggested instead. Equally, if you wanted to make the ‘Game Ragu’ you have the option of choosing rabbit, wild boar or venison (although you might need to head to the butchers or order online). The ‘Dynamite Broth with Salmon’ does have bonito flakes, but there are recommendations on where you can source them (or you could leave them out). Aside from that, you will have to go to a deli or health food shop to make the ‘Hunza Apricots with Whipped Pistachio Cream’ and a few of the dishes might require a trip to a fishmonger (or a fish counter).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The majority of the recipes are fairly straightforward and all are very well-explained (the ‘Mackerel Pâté does ask you to smoke your own, but there are also instructions using shop bought). Prep and cooking times are included at the start of each recipe with additional ‘Charlie’s tips’ included at the end. There is the odd recipe that requires flicking back and forth to a side mentioned on another page (e.g. the delicious ‘Tomato and Pepper Salsa’ listed with the ‘Griddled Squid’ is also recommended for the (also brilliant) ‘Bashed Chicken with Parmesan Breadcrumbs’). However, that is a small complaint. Quantities are given in both grams and ounces which is ideal for those who still use imperial measurements.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Smoked Haddock Gratin’ is a must-try, while the ‘Leg of Lamb of Lamb with Harissa and Chermoula’ is ideal for an alternative Sunday roast (especially alongside the suggested ‘Couscous with Apricots, Parsley and Red Onion’). The ‘Bashed Chicken with Parmesan Breadcrumbs’ is also now a firm favourite in our house. On the sweet front, the ‘Chocolate Torte with Caramelised Hazelnuts’ is a wonderfully rich and indulgent pud which will delight chocoholics. For something lighter, both the summer and winter ‘Poached Pears’ are delicious.

How often will I cook from this book?
Fairly often. It is one of those books you can rely on for every occasion, whether that be a simple weeknight supper, comforting pud or multi-course easy entertaining menu. There are a myriad of options suitable all-year round – think vibrant and fresh salads in the hazy heat of summer, rich and comforting stews and hotpots for chillier winter evenings.

Any negatives?
If you were expecting this to contain all the recipes for the Charlie Bigham dishes you buy in the shops, you might be a little disappointed. There are some, like the ‘Chicken Tikka Masala’ and ‘Ultimate Lasagne’. However, the much-loved Macaroni Cheese (and it’s even more indulgent cousin the Four Cheese Macaroni) are, sadly, absent.

The only other gripe would be on the (delicious) ‘Penne with Parmesan, Spinach and Courgette’ which is described as a ‘special vegetarian main course’ and a ‘celebration of Parmesan’. While the latter is most definitely true, by definition, Parmesan isn’t vegetarian as it contains animal rennet. While some vegetarians choose to be more relaxed around cheese, it would have been prudent if ‘Charlie’s Tip’ mentioned using a ‘Parmesan-style hard cheese’ to prevent hosts unwittingly serving a non-vegetarian dish to vegetarian friends and family.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is one of those cookbooks that has something for every mood or occasion. Whether you want something special for a dinner party, a cosy and comforting winter supper or a vibrant sharing salad for a summer barbecue, Supper with Charlie Bigham has got you covered.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Hairy Bikers and Mary Berry
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Supper with Charlie Bigham: Favourite food for family & friends
£26.00, Mitchell Beazley

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Comfort Food Recipes for Beginners: A Review of Country Comfort by Hari Beavis

Self-taught cook Hari Beavis has been described as ‘Gen Z’s go-to chef for comforting, cosy meals’ with nearly 300,000 followers on Instagram and over half a million on TikTok.

Growing up in the Warwickshire countryside, Beavis was raised on rich cosy meals which helped nourish the family through short, chilly days and long dark evenings, the kind of recipes she has become famous for on her social media pages. Think French Onion Soup with Cheesy Garlic Bread, Chicken Alfredo Lasagne and Parmesan Chicken Orzo, alongside Golden Syrup Cake and Chunky Monkey Cookies. They have proved so popular it was only a matter of time before publishers came knocking. The result? Her debut cookbook, Country Comfort. Beavis promises 90 recipes designed to show readers how to create crowd-pleasing, wholesome meals full of love and warmth.

What will I love?
Country Comfort is a hug in a book, full of cosy, comforting recipes accompanied by rustic, relatable photos. , if you will. Lots of the recipes have tips offering advice on simple swaps and substitutions so you don’t feel like you have to dash out with a lengthy shopping list before you start cooking. Each recipe includes a helpful equipment list, plus the chapters are organised by time so you already vaguely know how long they should take.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Not really. The focus is very much on the recipes. They each have short introductions and paragraphs with tips but, aside from the introduction at the beginning, there isn’t much reading to get stuck into.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. The ingredients are decidedly fuss-free. The most obscure is probably truffle mayonnaise in the ‘Chicken Sandwich’.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The dishes themselves are very straightforward. However, the recipes are written in paragraphs, rather than clear steps, to fit with the low-key, relaxed vibe of the book. This works for most of them, since they aren’t too complicated, however, some feel rather rushed. ‘My Loved Ones’ Carbonara’ is one example which would have benefited from a clearer, step-by-step, structure.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Moroccan Chicken Dinner with Tahini Yogurt’ makes for a vibrant, flavoursome meal, while the ‘Cheesy Fish Pie’ sounds like the ultimate comfort food. The ‘Chickpea and Spinach Curry’ is perfect when you want a simple, warming supper.

How often will I cook from this book?
The range of recipes is broad enough for you to cook from the book all year round for a multitude of occasions. From a simple ‘Mediterranean Pasta Salad’ and fruity ‘Raspberry, Nectarine and Mozzarella Salad’ (ideal for summer BBQs) to a hearty ‘Butter Chicken Pie’ and ‘Hug in a Bowl Beef Stroganoff’ (perfect autumn/winter warmers). Chapters are organised by time (Comfort in… 10, 20, 30 or 40 minutes), followed by ‘Bake Everything Better’ full of sweet treats at the end (think ‘Chocolate Croissant and Hazelnut Pudding’, ‘Cinnamon Crunch Cake’ and ‘Raspberry Waffle Pudding’). There is also a useful chapter dedicated to ‘Drinks Pairings’.

Any negatives?
The recipes feel very geared towards an Instagram audience, hardly surprising given Beavis’ large social following. Although there are many good ideas, there isn’t anything particularly innovative or inspiring. Not all of the recipes have photos which is a shame as they really add to the cosy vibe of the book.

Should I buy the book?
If you are looking for low-effort cosy, comforting recipes, this is the book for you. It is ideal for a beginner cook looking to gain confidence in the kitchen (it would be perfect for a student) but the recipes have a distinct ‘influencer’ vibe that might leave more experienced cooks feeling a little uninspired.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Beginner cooks
Great for fans of: Eleanor Wilkinson, Kitty Coles and MOB
Cookbook review rating: Three stars
Buy this book: Country Comfort: Hearty, wholesome meals in minutes
£26.00, Carnival

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

What’s For Christmas Dinner? by Sarah Rossi – Cookbook Review

Sarah Rossi, AKA founder of the immensely popular Taming Twins website, is back with her latest cookbook What’s For Christmas Dinner?. Her previous bestselling books, What’s For Dinner? and What’s For Dinner in One Pot?, secured her spot as one of the ‘go-to’ cookery writers for easy, budget-friendly, family meals. Now she has turned her attention to the season of goodwill and cheer, promising to take the stress out of Christmas and help you become a master of meal planning. A tall order indeed.

What will I love?
If you are feeling overwhelmed by Christmas, Rossi has done all the hard work for you. What’s For Christmas Dinner? is the most comprehensive culinary guide to Christmas I have come across. Alongside recipes accompanied by colourful, enticing photos, there is information on planning, shopping lists, timings for the Big Day, additional equipment, ‘get ahead’ tips, guidance for different numbers, advice on leftovers; you name it, Rossi has thought about it. There’s even a section explaining how to adapt recipes for different diets that will be helpful for anyone expecting vegetarian, vegan, nut-free, gluten-free or dairy-free guests. The book isn’t just for Christmas, much of the advice (and many of the recipes) can be applied to entertaining throughout the year.

The festive favourites are all there including ‘Classic Roast Turkey with Herb Butter’, ‘Stress-free Roast Potatoes’ and ‘Make-ahead Gravy’ as well as more modern ideas such as a retro American-style ‘Hash Brown Breakfast Bake’, moreish ‘Cheese and Chutney Scones’ and indulgent ‘Christmas Brownies’ designed to use up any leftover chocolate from the sharing selections.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes and no. There is plenty to read on the planning front and each chapter includes an introduction and the recipes go into extensive detail with tips, where necessary. Just don’t expect nostalgic literary musings on the beauty of Christmas.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Every recipe features ingredients that are readily available in the supermarkets. Advice on substitutions is also given.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Rossi lives up to her reputation of making her recipes as fuss-free as possible. Think clear instructions, timings and prep-ahead tips.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Croissant Christmas Tree’ is a showstopping breakfast/brunch which can be adapted to use all sorts of spreads and the ‘Mushroom Wellingtons’ are a delicious veggie main course. The ‘Cheese and Tomato Tart’ is also a stand-out winner. On the pudding front, the ‘Chocolate Orange Pudding’ is a must-try, gloriously gooey with a decadent molten chocolate sauce. The ‘Christmas Tiramisu’, which swaps ladyfingers for panettone, is also delicious.

How often will I cook from this book?
You could very easily do all your festive cooking exclusively from What’s For Christmas Dinner?. Chapters cover everything from ‘Nibbles and Party Food’ and ‘Cosy Nights In’ to ‘Gorgeous Gifts’ and ‘Festive Feasts’ (not forgetting ‘Leftovers’ and ‘Christmas Breakfast’).

However, it isn’t a book purely reserved for Christmas. Many recipes can easily be enjoyed throughout the year with a few adjustments, especially if you entertain regularly. Who wouldn’t love the ‘Cheese and Pesto Straws’ for a cheesy snack or ‘Smashed Pea Crostini’ as a spring/summer party nibble?

Any negatives?
While this isn’t Nigel Slater’s The Christmas Chronicles with lengthy nostalgic musings on Christmas and the beauty of the festive season, it is hard to find a negative. What’s For Christmas Dinner? does exactly what it sets out to do. A fair few of the sweet treats (e.g. desserts and baking) are chocolatey but then it is Christmas after all and there are other sweet options like zesty ‘Lemon Pots’ and a stunning ‘Wreath Pavlova’ if you aren’t a chocoholic.

Should I buy the book?
If you are entertaining and looking for a book to help you ace the festive period, What’s For Christmas Dinner? is a must-buy. Less confident cooks will get the most out of it (think of it as a festive culinary bible), but Christmas cooking veterans will still find plenty of inspiration within the pages.

Cuisine: British festive with international influences
Suitable for: anyone who wants a helping hand in the kitchen this Christmas.
Great for fans of: Jamie Oliver and The Batch Lady
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: What’s For Christmas Dinner? by Sarah Rossi (@tamingtwins)
£22.00, Harper Collins

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain by Tom Kerridge Cookbook Review

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain Cookbook cover.

Tom Kerridge is surely a man who needs no introduction by now? For those of you who haven’t heard of him, he is the proprietor of several bars and restaurants including The Hand and Flowers (the first gastropub to receive 2 Michelin stars back in 2012) and The Coach (which secured its first Michelin star in 2018). His profile soared after appearing on Great British Menu in 2010 and has released cookbooks regularly ever since (including the bestselling Proper Pub Food, Outdoor Cooking and Pub Kitchen as well as more diet-friendly titles Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet and Tom Kerridge’s Fresh Start inspired by his own weight-loss journey).

If you haven’t eaten in one of his establishments or cooked from one of his books, you have probably seen him on television (where he regularly pops up in M&S adverts, stars in his own cookery shows and documentaries, and judges on Great British Menu), tried one of his M&S meals, attended a Pub in the Park food festival, or come across his campaigns championing the hospitality industry or fighting child food poverty (through Full Time Meals).

This time, Kerridge has turned his attention to Britain, or rather, British ingredients, promising 100 recipes that celebrate the best of what this country has to offer.

What will I love?
If you are interested in learning more about British produce, and how to make the most of them in your kitchen, you will find plenty to enjoy here. There are over 100 recipes – divided into chapters of ‘Vegetables’, ‘Fish & Shellfish’, ‘Meat & Poultry’, ‘Dairy’ and ‘Fruit’ – designed to mirror the key areas that make up the backbone of the British farming industry. Options are varied, ranging from lighter dish like ‘Asparagus, Poached Egg and Hollandaise’ to a hearty ‘Family Beef Mince Pie’. The photos are beautiful too.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes. The introduction spans several pages, offering an enthusiastic (and very persuasive) argument for the importance of British farming. Each chapter then begins with a short introduction and the recipes also all have their own introductions explaining Kerridge’s inspiration and/or offering helpful hints.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Although some recipes mention specific cheeses, there is nothing too obscure (more readily available alternatives are also given). There is a good balance in terms of affordability; while there are recipes for Tomahawk steak and other more expensive cuts of meat and fish, plenty of less extravagant ingredients are also featured.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The recipes range in ability, but the instructions are always clear, giving advice on what to look out for and tips on how to make certain processes easier. It would be helpful if recipe timings were included at the top.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Leek and Caerphilly Rarebit’ is wonderfully comforting, while the ‘Chicken Kyiv Dippers’ are a delicious snack (or simply a fun alternative to a classic Kyiv). Don’t miss the ‘Bacon and Mushrooms Eggs Benedict’ for an umami-rich twist on the brunch favourite and even kale avoiders could be converted by the ‘Creamy Kale Pasta with Crispy Parmesan’.

How often will I cook from this book?
There is a range of recipes for every eating occasion throughout the year: ‘Asparagus Pecorino and Lemon Pasta’ in spring, a suitably summer-y ‘Yoghurt and Apricot Parfait with Almond Praline’, a cosy, comforting autumnal ‘Blackberry, Pear and Apple Crumble’, and a warming winter ‘Turnip Gratin with Lincolnshire Poacher’. However, there is a greater emphasis on dishes geared more towards spring/summer cooking and entertaining.

Any negatives?
There are some lovely options for vegetarians (or recipes that could easily be adapted), but not many choices for vegans. The pudding options could also be more diverse, perhaps a result of the emphasis n produce available in the UK.

Should I buy the book?
If you are keen to cook more seasonally with local British ingredients, this book is perfect for you. It also offers helpful inspiration to make everyday recipes a bit more special.

Cuisine: International cuisine using British ingredients
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities.
Great for fans of: Hugh Fearnly-Whittingstall
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain
£25.00, Bloomsbury

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain aired on ITV in July 2024.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Small Batch Cookies by Ed Kimber – Cookbook Review

Who is Edd Kimber?
A.K.A ‘The Boy Who Bakes’, Edd Kimber is an award-winning baker, food writer and Great British Bake Off (GBBO) winner. He has written several best-selling, critically acclaimed, cookbooks including One Tin Bakes (2020), One Tin Bakes Easy (2021) and Small Batch Bakes (2022). Since achieving culinary fame after GBBO, he has become a familiar fixture on television screens at home and abroad, appearing on Good Morning America, Sunday Brunch and Saturday Kitchen. He can often be found sharing his passion for baking at food festivals, cookery schools and in magazines, including olive. He also regularly shares recipes with his followers via his social media @theboywhobakes and his popular Substack newsletter. Small Batch Cookies is his 7th cookbook.

What is Small Batch Cookies’ USP?
We all have moments when we just crave a warm cookie straight from the oven. Moments when you don’t want to whip up a big batch to feed the five thousand and/or hunt out a long list of expensive ingredients. You just want to enjoy a comforting cookie (or two). These were Kimber’s inspiration for Small Batch Cookies. After all, the popularity of the infamous ‘Emergency Cookie’ in his earlier book Small Batch Bakes had proved there was a clear demand for it.

What will I love?
The concept is a clever one. It’s liberating to be able to make such an impressive variety of delicious-sounding cookie recipes (each accompanied by a beautiful photograph) without worrying about leftovers or filling the freezer. Of course, the recipes can always be scaled up so you could make larger batches if you so wish.

Kimber also caters for various diets. Think delicate gluten-free ‘Swedish Lace Cookies’ and rich ‘Chewy Flourless Double Chocolate Cookies’, vegan ‘Tahini Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies’ and ‘Speculoos-Stuffed Dark Chocolate Cookies’, and egg-free ‘Vanilla Kipferl’ and ‘Frosted Banana Bread Cookies’.

Is it good bedtime reading?
In a literary sense, not really. There is an ‘Introduction’ followed by Kimber’s ‘Perfect Cookie Manifesto’, a ‘Boring But Important Bit’ and advice on ‘Equipment’. Plus, each recipe has its own introduction. As long as you aren’t expecting long essays on the origins of the cookie, this is a joyful book to snuggle up with and contemplate your next culinary creations. I would encourage you to take a notebook to jot down a ‘to make’ list.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
There is a helpful list of recommended suppliers at the back of the book, but you should be able to find everything you need in your local supermarket for the vast majority of the recipes. The only exception would be the ‘Panela Brown Butter Shortbread’ which would need a trip to a local health shop or an online order to get your hands on panela. In fairness, Kimber does say you can use regular caster sugar, although it won’t have quite the same flavour. It is also refreshing to see vegan recipes which use regular ingredients and pretty much like-for-like substitutes (Kimber explains at the start that flax or psyllium husk egg replacers are ‘superfluous’ in small-batch baking and can easily be replaced with a splash more plant-based milk).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Kimber has ensured the recipes are as accessible as possible with helpful introductions, clear instructions (as well as explanations like ‘resting like this helps to hydrate the flour, which in turn prevents the cookies from spreading too much, leaving us with beautifully chunky cookies’), handy ‘notes’, where necessary, and storage instructions. Measurements are given for pretty much every ingredient (think 2 tsp lemon juice instead of ‘juice of 1 lemon’) so there is precious little room for error.

Stand-out recipes?
Every recipe I have tried so far has been a success. The ‘Triple Chocolate Skillet Cookie for Two’ makes for a delicious quick and easy pud served warm with a scoop of just-melting vanilla ice cream. The ‘Black Forest Brownie Crinkles’ are a must-try for brownie fans. In fact, you could skip the black forest filling and enjoy the fudgy cookies on their own.

If you ever fancied making your own version of hobnobs, the ‘Knobbly Oat Cookies’ are incredibly simple, easy to adapt for vegans and even more delicious with a layer of chocolate. Speaking of oaty cookies, don’t miss the ‘Anzac Cookies’. They have a wonderfully chewy texture and (notionally) last a long time so are ideal to make ahead. Anyone who has been lucky enough to try Sarah Nelson’s famous Grasmere Gingerbread will be delighted to see Kimber’s own interpretation. The original is a closely guarded secret, but this recipe comes very close.

How often will I cook from this book?
How often do you fancy cookies? Small Batch Cookies could easily become your go-to cookie book with recipes divided into 6 delectably titled chapters — Soft & Sumptuous; Crisp & Crunchy; Ooey Gooey; Sandwich Cookies; Chocolate Heaven; and Chewy — guaranteeing a cookie for every thinkable craving. Although the whole premise is each recipe only makes a few (servings range between 2 and 6), they can all easily be scaled up to make a full batch. You’ll probably cook more recipes from this book than a regular baking book since the smaller batches mean you can try a selection of cookies without worrying about wasting leftovers or filling your freezer to the brim.

Any negatives?
While there is something for almost every diet, the labelling of the recipes is a bit peculiar and inconsistent (for example, the Triple Ginger Molasses Cookies are vegan but there is no label to indicate they are – unlike other recipes). Plus many could easily be adapted for vegans, even though it is only mentioned in the odd recipe (think simple swaps like regular butter for plant-based butter or honey for maple syrup). One can’t help but feel Kimber missed a bit of a trick there.

It would also have been helpful to have the estimated time at the top of each recipe. This is particularly important if a recipe requires chilling.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Anyone who remotely enjoys cookies should own a copy of Small Batch Cookies.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Jane Dunn and Nicola Lamb
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Small Batch Cookies: Deliciously easy bakes for one to six people
£22.00, Kyle Books

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Tucking In by Sophie Wyburd – Cookbook Review

Who is Sophie Wyburd?
A cook and recipe writer from South London. Wyburd has enjoyed a varied career in food; working as a restaurant chef, in food styling and heading up the food team at Mob (where she became one of their most popular recipe developers). She has since branched out on her own and is known for sharing simple, comforting home cooking ideas via social media (@sophiewyburd) and her newsletter, Feeder. She also regularly cooks at her sellout London supper clubs and co-hosts the I’ll Have What She’s Having and A Bit of a Mouthful podcasts. Tucking In is her first solo book.

What is Tucking In’s USP?
Described by Ixta Belfrage as: ‘A collection of exciting recipes that are cosy and simple,’ Tucking In is on a mission to show that good food doesn’t have to be fussy or stressful with over 100 recipes for satisfying, unapologetically comforting, meals. There are ideas for every season and occasion, from summer sharing platters to cosy winter weeknight warmers and everyday suppers to relaxed weekend feasts. Put simply, Tucking In wants to help you fall in love with everything about food; the cooking, the sharing and the eating. As Wyburd explains: ‘cooking is not only a fabulous way to show other people that you love them; it’s also a pretty foolproof method of showing yourself some love.’

What will I love?
The approachable, unfussy, nature of the book and the way Wyburd’s personality and passion for food shine through (this is a very personal cookbook, you can’t help but warm to Wyburd through her chatty introductions, it almost feels like you are catching over a cup of coffee).

You would be forgiven for thinking that a book offering ‘comfort food’ might be full of recipes you have seen before, but you would be mistaken. Wyburd has created innovative recipes offering twists on comforting classics; think a Kinder Bueno-inspired ‘Hazelnut Tiramisu’, Chinese-spiced ‘Sticky Sprunion Sausage Rolls’ and the veg-packed ‘Cauliflower Shawarma Bowls’. There is also a knock-out ‘Pasta Party’ chapter featuring dishes which genuinely offer something different (the glorious ‘Piggy Porcini Lasagne’ is a personal favourite). There is just the right balance of meat, fish, vegetarian and vegan options (and none of the latter feel gimmicky). In fact, many of the recipes are flexible and can easily be adapted for various diets.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Not in a lengthy essay sort of way, more in a ‘curl up under the covers and get lost in a world of food’ sort of way. The introductions to each recipe are beautifully written, full of tips and tricks and nostalgic anecdotes that share the stories behind each one. You could argue that Tucking In is part cookbook, part evocative food memoir; you can’t help but reminisce about your own culinary memories as you become immersed in the recipes.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
The majority of the time, no. Some recipes have the odd ingredient which is a bit more expensive, like a whole side of salmon or a joint of lamb, but these are balanced out by my more affordable recipes (especially once you have stocked up your larder with Wyburd’s staples). The Hazelnut Tiramisu does call for hazelnut butter which is likely to require an online order.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very, after all, fuss-free is the theme of the book. There are a few more involved recipes for anyone wishing to challenge themselves, but Wyburd’s directions are clear and easy to understand. Each recipe includes an introduction, information on whether it is gluten-free, dairy-free, vegetarian and/or vegan, as well as the cooking time and helpful tips, where necessary.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Cheeseboard Arancini’ are far too delicious for their own good and ideal for using up the odds and ends of different cheeses (I will definitely be making these with the remnants of the Christmas cheeseboard). The ‘Curried Chicken Legs with Cheesy Polenta’ sounds like an unusual combination, but is utterly delicious (and almost guaranteed to convert any polenta naysayers), while the ‘Life-Saving Garlicky Chicken’ is possibly one of the most comforting dishes you will ever eat. The previously mentioned ‘Hazelnut Tiramisu’ is also outstanding and worth seeking out the hazelnut butter for.

How often will I cook from this book?
Fairly often. Every culinary eventuality is covered, from the ultra-indulgent ‘Cavolo and Taleggio Pasta’, perfect when in need of a bit of comfort, to the vibrant ‘Spiced Blackened Salmon Tacos with Orange Salsa’, ideal for a summer feast.

Chapters include ‘Nibbly Bits’ (ideas for snacks and canapés for when friends come for drinks), ‘Midweek Mood’ (quick and delicious meals ideal for after a long day), ‘Pasta Party’ (self-explanatory), ‘A Bit Fancier’ (perfect for get togethers when you want to make a good impression), ‘Carb City’ (the ultimate comfort food), ‘Veg Me Up’ (when you need to balance out the previous chapter) and ‘Sweet Stuff’ (puds).

Any negatives?
Being really picky, the ‘Cavolo and Taleggio Pasta’ was labelled vegetarian when Taleggio contains animal rennet. Apart from that, there isn’t really much to complain about.

Should I buy the book?
If you like fuss-free, comforting food, then it is a resounding yes. Tucking In is full of delicious, hearty recipes for every mood and occasion.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: MOB and Ixta Belfrage
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Tucking In: A Very Comforting Cookbook
£22.00, Ebury

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Cookbook review: Arepa by Irena Stein

Review written by Nick Dodd

Arepas, everywhere! They’re on the menu of a restaurant I’ve been to many times, they’re being sold at a food market I visited and some guys tucks into one in the background of a Netflix show I’m watching. There’s a name for it, the frequency illusion, where something checks into your consciousness and doesn’t check out. I’d never eaten one before Arepa: Classic and Contemporary Recipes for Venezuela’s Daily Bread and now, arepas everywhere!

Arepas are most notably hallmarks of Venezuelan and Colombian cuisine and as author Irena Stein writes in the introduction, they’re rapidly growing in global popularity and prevalence because, to paraphrase somewhat, they’re an absolute delight to eat. This book is a comprehensive exploration of the arepa in print and, as a restauranter, advocate of Venezuelan cuisine and arepa superfan, Stein is an authoritative companion if this is your first meeting with one.

And oh my, they’re lovely little things. A kind of cornbread patty that lives at the intersection of the pitta/taco Venn diagram. Crisp, chewy and rounded to fit snugly between your palms. They’re also a breeze to make with Stein’s painless dough recipe, a simple quartet of maize flour, water, salt and oil. Like most bread-adjacent commodities there’s a rainbow of versatility in the recipes. You can stuff, dunk, eat with meat, fish, vegetables, cheese, on its own, pair with sweet things, savoury things, have for breakfast, lunch, dinner, late night snack and everything in between.

It is an unflashy book. Sincere, thoughtful and comprehensive as if written by your favourite university professor with a doctorate in the chemistry of maize flour. Fittingly, Stein has a Master’s Degree in Cultural Anthropology and historical context is woven throughout the book. Chapters are occasionally prefaced with introductions such as ‘A Brief History of Meat in Venezuela’ which may sound formal but let’s face it, is the sort of thing we’re all here for. The accompanying recipes are extremely simple with precise measurements and alternative suggestions for ingredients depending on taste and availability. The only ingredient I struggled to find was aji dulce paste, a sweet red pepper mixture, for which I made a rough approximation without too much trouble.

Most recipes rely on stuffing the arepa with an unholy amount of slowly roasted animal or vegetables slathered with dressing, cheese or both. The standout recipes were the most effortless like the arepa stuffed with eggs, manchego, marinated vegetables and the kind of sharp, spicy dressing that makes your gums recede. Equally undemanding was a recipe of spiced carrots sizzled in citrus butter, harissa paste, sweetened with honey then paired with a red pepper cream. It’s at this point I wish I could tell you about how I spent a day, as Stein recommends, roasting beef over a wood fire returning only to gently baste it as I, too, baste in the doting rays of the late evening sunshine. Instead, I chucked it in the oven, probably procrastinated for four hours then ate this utterly magnificent thing with the curtains drawn.

There’s lots of recipes with a bit more pzazz. The brunch crowd will cheer the inclusion of an omelette arepa with grilled asparagus and a butter made from artichoke and truffle. I really loved the huevos rancheros arepa, a mingling of eggs, sloppy red tomato sauce and a spicy green mojo. It will require napkins and it is entirely worth the mess. And my arteries tighten as I tell you there are two pages dedicated to making different kinds of butter.

In Stein’s estimation arepas are universally loved because they’re so user-friendly. This is absolutely true and you can go from zero to sauce down your chin within the hour. It’s a great book, to the point, varied and entirely accessible to an arepa newbie. If I’m now destined to a life of seeing arepas everywhere, I can think of much less delicious things to be trailed by.

Cuisine: Venezuelan
Suitable for: Beginner, confident home cooks
Cookbook Review Rating: Five stars

Click this affiliate link to buy the book and support cookbookreview.blog:
Arepa by Irena Stein
£20, Ryland Peters and Small

One Bake, Two Ways by Ruby Bhogal – Cookbook Review

Who is Ruby Bhogal?
A former Bake-off finalist who has gone on to become a successful food writer (her work has been featured in publications such as Waitrose magazine, GQ and the Sunday Times) and TV chef. She also has her own substack newsletter, The Last Bite, and regularly keeps her followers up-to-date with her latest baking creations on social media @rubybhogal.

What’s the USP
Each of the 50 recipes is presented twice: first in its traditional form, then with a ‘veganised’ plant-based alternative. It is undoubtedly a clever and inclusive concept, promising to help teach you the skills to cater for everyone’s needs, regardless of dietary preferences.

What will I love?
Bhogal’s energy and enthusiasm for a start. Each recipe exudes her warmth and personality, from the chatty introductions to the friendly hints and tips included in each step. It feels like you are baking with a friend at your side.

There are also plenty of unique recipes that will encourage you to try new flavours and expand your baking repertoire. Sometimes dessert and baking books can feel a bit repetitive when you come across yet another for something like a tiramisu, but Bhogal offers genuinely new and exciting twists on classics (in this case, offering a ‘Malt Milk Tiramisu with Milk Chocolate’), that aren’t too outlandish.

It is a brilliant concept. Even if you have no interest in vegan cooking, you can still enjoy 50 new baking recipes. Yet, if you, or someone in your family, follows a vegan diet or needs to eat dairy-free, One Bake, Two Ways shows that it is perfectly possible to make something that is every bit as achievable and delicious.

Is it good bedtime reading?
While there aren’t any long essays, Bhogal’s friendly writing style makes the introductions a joy to read. You could happily browse through the pages marvelling out the array of bakes on offer, and the nifty tips and tricks to make them vegan-friendly, before drifting off into a sweet slumber.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
For a book which is 50% vegan, there is a distinct lack of unusual ingredients (phew!). Plant-based milk, butter and spread are all widely available, perhaps the trickiest thing to get hold of is vegan white chocolate but it is available online.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Some of the recipes are more faffy than others (e.g. the ‘Chocolate Wagon Wheels with Raspberry Jam and Hazelnut Biscuit’), but there are plenty of simpler options for when you want a quick and easy bake. As mentioned above, Bhogal’s directions are consistently clear and accessible throughout so that even the more complex recipes seem achievable.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Self-saucing Sticky Toffee Pud Tray-Cake with Stem Ginger and Chocolate’ is everything you want in a comforting winter pud, whilst the ‘Victoria Sponge Loaf with Roasted Strawberries and Mint’ is a must-make during the summer months when strawberries are in season. Meanwhile, chocoholics won’t be able to resist a slice of the unbelievably moist ‘Chocolate Fudge Sponge with Milk Chocolate Fudge Frosting’, and don’t miss the beautifully buttery ‘Cranberry, Apricot and Almond Couronne with Apricot Glaze’ which is guaranteed to impress friends and family.

How often will I cook from this book?
There are bakes for every occasion so, if you are a regular baker, there is enough to pique your interest and keep you busy. The only thing to bear in mind is that a few of the recipes call for some more expensive ingredients.

Any negatives?
The majority of the recipes include a modern twist on a classic, so if you are a staunch traditionalist who is horrified at the idea of adding chai to your custard creams or swapping the classic dark chocolate Viennese whirls for the more tropical ‘Passion Fruit Viennese Fingers with White Chocolate and Coconut Ganache’, then this probably isn’t the book for you.

It would also be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head. This is especially important for baking so you can gauge if it is going to be an ‘all-day’ recipe requiring resting, chilling, proving etc. or one that can be whipped up in an afternoon. Finally, not every recipe has a photo which may bother some more than others.

Should I buy the book?
If you love trying innovative new flavours in your bakes and/or are curious about dabbling in more plant-based baking, this is most certainly the book for you.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill, Phillip Khoury and Max La Manna
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: One Bake, Two Ways
£26.00, Pavillion

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Gohan: Everyday Japanese Cooking: Memories and stories from my family’s kitchen by Emiko Davies – Cookbook Review

Who is Emiko Davies?
Emiko Davies is an award-winning Australian-Japanese food writer, photographer and author of five cookbooks. Based in Italy, her first four cookbooks included stories and recipes celebrating authentic Italian cuisine. She continues to write and develop recipes and travel guides for national and international publications including Food52, Conde Nast Traveler, The Sunday Times, The Guardian, The Kitchn and delicious. magazine.

What is Gohan’s USP?
In Gohan, Davies eschews the more complex dishes of Japanese restaurant food such as sashimi, and instead shares the simple, satisfying meals like like yakisoba, tamago no gohan (stir fried egg and rice) and soba noodle soup that she grew up with and now makes for her own children. As she explains: “Gohan to me means the everyday home-cooked meal. Nothing fussy. It’s quick and easy, but nourishing. A meal made with love.”

What will I love?
Davies’ evocative writing about her Japanese heritage shows how powerful food is in keeping memories alive. You almost feel you have joined her on a journey delving into her culinary history. It is fascinating to learn about lesser-known ‘everyday’ Japanese cuisine and how it is so much more than sushi, tempura and bento boxes.

The variety of recipes is impressive with most accompanied by beautifully shot home-style photos. There is something to suit every season and taste. The ‘Winter Hotpot’ is perfect for chilly days; ‘Cold Somen Noodles with Cucumber and Ginger’ is ideal for humid summers. It is also good to see several recipes include suggestions for ‘variations’ to help you ring the changes. Prepare to be inspired.

Is it good bedtime reading?
This isn’t just a recipe book to cook from, it is one to curl up and read from cover to cover. You will become immersed in Davies’ moving tributes to her family and food memories with pages discussing everything from ‘Making Tofu in the Mountains of Nagano’ to ‘The Perfect Bowl of Japanese Rice’. Each recipe also features deeply personal introductions which feature childhood memories and additional tips passed down from mother (or grandmother) to daughter.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Gohan is all about home-cooking and Davies makes a concerted effort to encourage readers to use ingredients they already have to hand. Having said that, there are still a fair few ingredients that will take a little effort to get hold of such as plum vinegar, dried bonito flakes, kirimochi (dried mochi blocks), natto and Japanese taro to name just a few. Once you familiarise yourself with suppliers, and/or become more confident with substitutions, it shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
One of Gohan’s main aims is to dispel the myth that Japanese food is complicated. There are dishes which require time, skill and effort but there are plenty that can be ready in under 15 minutes. Those that require a certain level of technique, like the ‘Filled Rice Balls’, are accompanied by helpful step-by-step photos. Some ingredient lists are a little vague (e.g. the ‘Fried Rice’ suggests ‘a handful of green beans’), but then that is the nature of the style of cooking that is central to the book (especially with a recipe designed to use up leftovers). Overall, the recipe instructions are clear, easy-to-follow and thanks to the introductions and tips, feel like Davies is guiding you through each step.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Curry Croquettes’ are dangerously addictive and the ‘Fried Pork Cutlet with Miso Sauce’ is packed full of flavour. The ‘Seafood Rice Gratin’ is wonderfully rich and creamy; the epitome of comfort food.

How often will I cook from this book?
It depends on how much you want to eat authentic Japanese food. Recipes range from mastering the basics like how to cook rice, make panko breadcrumbs and pickled ginger, to breakfasts, mains and sweet treats so there is enough variety for you to cook regularly from the book. Classics like ‘Scrambled Eggs with Garlic Chives’, ‘Egg and Rice’ and ‘Fried Noodles’ can easily become weekly staples, while recipes like the ‘Red Bean Buns’ are great for a weekend baking project.

Any negatives?
If you don’t already have a larder stocked up with staple Japanese ingredients, the initial outlay cost will be expensive. However, once you have the essentials, you will find many are used time and again. Some recipes (like the ‘Prawn Balls’) require specialist equipment although Davies does include alternative options (like getting creative with a waffle maker).

Should I buy the book?
If you are even the slightest bit interested in learning more about Japanese cuisine, then yes. This is a beautifully written, heartfelt book full of passion and warmth that offers readers a glimpse inside the kitchens of Japanese mothers and grandmothers. It is a privilege to have the opportunity to try nourishing, soulful recipes that have been passed down the generations.

Cuisine: Home-style Japanese
Suitable for: Keen cooks who want to deepen their knowledge on Japanese culture and cuisine.
Great for fans of: Tim Anderson
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: Gohan: Everyday Japanese Cooking: Memories and stories from my family’s kitchen
£26, Thames & Hudson

Cook the Book:
Fried Pork Cutlet with Miso Sauce
Fried Noodles

Fruitful by Sarah Johnson – Cookbook Review

Who is Sarah Johnson?
Sarah Johnson is an American-born pastry chef who trained under Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, before working at Skye Gyngell’s acclaimed Spring restaurant in London, and Heckfield Place in Hampshire. Johnson is known for her passion for using seasonal, sustainable ingredients, transforming them into innovative desserts and cakes that celebrate the best of what nature has to offer. Followers are treated to a collection of her stunning creations, and an inside glimpse of her farm-to-table approach to cooking, on her social media account @sarahjohnsoncooks. Fruitful is her debut cookbook.

What is Fruitful’s USP?
Described by Darina Allen as ‘a delicious celebration of ripe and seasonal produce’, Fruitful offers over 80 sweet and savoury recipes that showcase fruit in all its glory. Accompanying the recipes are a selection of pairing recommendations, flavour charts, interviews with regenerative farmers from around the world, and expert advice on mastering key techniques to help you make the most out of your produce.

What will I love?
The thought and detail that has gone into putting this book together shines through. Some books feel rather rushed, but this one is almost crafted like a work of art. The recipes are inventive and elegant, with almost all accompanied by stunning photographs which leave you hoping you have the ingredients so you can start cooking straight away.

Johnson is generous with her knowledge, sharing tips and tricks in the gentle manner of a friend leading you on a foodie journey. You can’t help but be inspired by page after page of sweet and savoury ideas that showcase the sheer versatility of fruit. Fruitful feels so much more than a cookbook, it is a joyous celebration of fruit and farming that will deepen your knowledge and broaden your culinary horizons.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Alongside the main introduction which details Johnson’s culinary journey and philosophy, each chapter and recipe also includes its own introduction. There are several pages dedicated to a detailed explanation of the various ‘Techniques for Cooking with Fruit’, breakout boxes on everything from how to curate a seasonal fruit bowl no matter what the time of year, to favourite flavour combinations. Weaved throughout the book are interviews with various producers who share fascinating insights into their work.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not really. Johnson offers variations throughout the book so you can adjust the recipes depending on the season and/or what you already have available. For example, stracciatella features in the ‘Pizza with Peaches, Stracciatella, Rocket and Pesto’, but burrata and mozzarella are suggested alternatives. The odd recipe uses ingredients like coconut flour (‘Coconut Rum Cake with Peaches in Syrup’) and peach leaves (Vin de Pêche’), but the vast majority rely on ingredients that aren’t too tricky to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There are a variety of simple and more complex recipes. Fuss-free ideas like ‘Blackcurrant Jelly’ and ‘Strawberry Sorbet’ sit alongside more involved recipes like the beautiful ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’. All are explained in a detailed yet accessible manner, clearly outlining the steps, with photos offering additional guidance where necessary.

Stand-out recipes?
You could be forgiven for thinking that the stand-out recipes would all be sweet, but the savoury options are equally impressive. The ‘Goats Cheese Soufflés with Spring Herb Salad and Roasted Cherries’ are inspired, while the ‘North African Lamb with Plums’ is a deliciously sweet, sticky and subtly spiced slow-cooked dish that is perfect for impressing loved ones. It is tricky to select just a few ‘stand-out’ sweet options, but the indulgent ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’, zesty ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ and sophisticated ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’ are not to be missed.

How often will I cook from this book?
This isn’t the kind of cookbook you will make something from every day of the week, but there is much to learn from the various charts and tables which will influence your cooking. Recipes cover everything from cakes, ice cream and jam to slow-roast meats, seasonal salads and sustainable fish. There is plenty of variety too, whether you want a teatime treat (‘Polenta Olive Oil Muffins with Blackberries’), a show stopping tart (‘Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts’ or a simple supper (‘Lemony Chicken Piccata’).

Any negatives?
Whilst not prohibitively extravagant, a few of the recipes are quite expensive to make due to the need to purchase certain liqueurs. Some recipes rely on a rather large number of eggs – ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’ uses 8 yolks and ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ calls for 8 whole eggs and 12 yolks. To her credit, Johnson acknowledges that the latter may seem excessive, but assures us they are necessary. Conscious of avoiding waste, she recommends saving the whites for her ‘Lemon Meringue Pie’ or ‘Meringues’ later in the book (as a side note, I would also heartily encourage you to try making your own ricciarelli, a deliciously soft Tuscan treat half-way between a macaron and an amaretti).

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a beautiful book which will inspire you to step outside of your comfort zone and cook more confidently, creatively and sustainably with seasonal fruit.

Cuisine: Seasonal British with Italian and French influences
Suitable for: Foodies and keen cooks who want to be more adventurous, and sustainable, with their cooking
Great for fans of: Alice Walters, Darina Allen and Skye Gygnell
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: Fruitful: Sweet and Savoury Fruit Recipes Inspired by Farms, Orchards and Gardens
£30.00, Kyle Books

Cook the Book:
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.