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Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts recipe by Sarah Johnson

Marsala is a fortified wine from Sicily that was once popular among chefs and wine enthusiasts alike. However, excessive production cheapened its quality over time, leading to a decline in its reputation. Fortunately, a select few winemakers continue to produce marsala in its authentic form, capturing its deep and mellow character with notes of muscovado and sun-dried fruit. If you haven’t any already, now may be the time to add a bottle to your pantry. In this recipe, sweet marsala is used in a sabayon (or zabaglione in Italian). Both creamy and light, this boozy custard is traditionally served with summer fruits. But I have opted to serve it with a chocolate tart and toasted hazelnuts.

SERVES 10–12

Ingredients:
For the chocolate tart shell:
150g (5½oz) unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
90g (3¼oz) icing sugar, sifted
1 egg
½ teaspoon salt
200g (7oz) plain flour
50g (1¾oz) cocoa powder

For the chocolate filling:
530g (1lb 3oz) good-quality chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into pieces
3 egg yolks
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
270ml (9½fl oz) whole milk
1 teaspoon salt

For the marsala sabayon:
190ml (6½fl oz) double cream
7 egg yolks
80g (2¾oz) sugar
150ml (5oz) sweet marsala
150g (5½oz) hazelnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped, to serve

For the chocolate dough, butter the bottom and sides of a 25cm (10in) fluted tart tin, and line the base with baking parchment. Place the butter and icing sugar into a mixing bowl and beat until smooth. Add the egg and salt and continue beating until the egg is absorbed.

Sift in the flour and cocoa powder and mix until everything comes together. The dough may feel dry at this stage, but the crust will have a nicer texture when the dough is cooked.

Using your hands, press the dough as evenly as possible into the prepared tart tin. Place a piece of baking parchment over the dough and use the back of a measuring cup (a small glass will also do) to gently press the dough into a smooth even layer. Press the dough up the sides of the tart tin, then trim the excess dough, reserving it for patching up any cracks that may form during baking. Place in the refrigerator until firm.

Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3.

Prick the bottom of the tart using a fork, then place it into the oven. After 7 minutes, you may notice the sides of the tart shell beginning to slouch. Gently press a flatbottomed measuring cup around the edges where the dough has shrunk and encourage it back up the side of the tart tin. Continue to bake for about 20 minutes until the tart shell is cooked all the way through. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

For the chocolate filling, prepare two large heatproof bowls – add the chocolate to one and the egg yolks to the other. Fill a saucepan with water and bring it to the boil. Remove it from the heat and place the bowl of chocolate on top, ensuring it doesn’t come into contact with the water. Allow the chocolate to melt gradually. Meanwhile, in a separate heavy-based saucepan, combine the double cream, milk and salt. Place it over medium heat. Put your bowl of egg yolks nearby, with a towel underneath to secure it.

When the milk mixture begins to simmer, take it off the heat and slowly ladle it into the yolks, stirring constantly with a whisk. Once you have incorporated all the milk into the yolks, return the mixture to the saucepan and place it over a low heat. Stir constantly until the custard thickens slightly and coats the back of a spoon.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into the chocolate and let it sit over the hot water for 1 minute. Remove from heat and wipe the water from underneath the bowl. Place a clean, dry spatula into the centre of the chocolate and, using small circular motions, begin to emulsify the chocolate. Once the mixture begins to look glossy, continue to bring in more chocolate and custard, all the while using small circular motions to emulsify the chocolate. Gentle stirring will prevent unwanted air bubbles. If the mixture begins to split, your chocolate may be too hot. However, a small splash of cold milk stirred into the chocolate should bring it back to its glossy texture. Scrape the sides and base of the bowl with spatula every so often. Once the chocolate is properly emulsified, pour into the prepared tart shell and shimmy the tart back and forth to evenly spread the filling. Place in a cool part of the kitchen for 2–3 hours until the filling is set.

For the marsala sabayon, take a small mixing bowl and whip the double cream until the whisk leaves tracks in the cream, stopping before soft peaks form. Chill the whipped cream in the refrigerator until needed. Prepare a large bowl with ice-cold water, filling it about one-third of the way up then set aside. Bring a pan of water to the boil and place the egg yolks into another large heatproof bowl. Sit this on top of the pan of boiling water. Whisk the yolks until they are warm to the touch, then add the sugar and whisk vigorously until the yolks turn pale and thick. Add the marsala and continue whisking until the custard is doubled in size. Notice how the sabayon changes; the bubbles will become smaller and the whisk will leave trails as the mixture thickens and becomes glossy. Remove from the heat and place over the bowl of ice-cold water. Continue whisking until completely chilled. Remove the cream from the refrigerator and whisk to soft peaks. Fold one-third of the sabayon into the cream, then fold in the rest. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours until you are ready to use.

Serve slices of the tart with generous spoonfuls of chilled sabayon and a scattering of toasted hazelnuts.

Book credit: Fruitful by Sarah Johnson. Published by Kyle Books. Photography: Patricia Niven.

Cook more from this book
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums

Read the review: click here
Buy this book:
Fruitful by Sarah Johnson
£30, Kyle Books

Lemon Drizzle Cake recipe by Sarah Johnson

It’s worth having a recipe for a classic lemon drizzle in your baking repertoire. I adore this particular version because it’s reliable, full of lemon flavour, and the addition of buttermilk provides a tender crumb.

SERVES 8–10

Ingredients:
For the cake:
200g (7oz) flour
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
zest of 1 lemon
225g (8oz) caster sugar
135g (4¾oz) butter, room temperature
140g (5oz) eggs (2–3 eggs)
¼ teaspoon salt
175ml (6oz) buttermilk

For the lemon soak:
2 tablespoons lemon juice, strained
1 tablespoon caster sugar

For the lemon icing:
150g (5½oz) icing sugar, sifted
1–1½ tablespoons lemon juice, strained

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3. Grease a loaf tin with butter and lightly dust it with flour. Tap out any excess flour and line the bottom with baking parchment. Sift the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl. Set aside. Zest the lemon directly over the measured sugar then rub it together using the tips of your fingers.

In a separate mixing bowl, beat the butter until smooth and satiny. Add the lemony sugar and continue to cream until the mixture becomes light in colour and fluffy in appearance.

Beat the eggs together and add to the butter and sugar, a third at a time, mixing until fully incorporated before adding the next third. Continue to cream the mixture, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. Once all the eggs have been added, the texture will be fluffy, light and increased in volume (it should resemble whipped cream cheese and the graininess should disappear). If you are using a stand mixture, remove the bowl now and proceed to mix by hand.

Gently fold in one-third of the dry ingredients, followed by half of the buttermilk. Repeat this process, alternating between the dry and wet ingredients. After each addition, scrape the sides of the bowl and continue mixing until the batter is smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf tin, smoothing out the top, and bake for 25–30 minutes. Rotate the cake and bake for another 15–20 minutes until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.

While the cake is baking, make the lemon soak by combining the lemon juice and sugar together until the sugar dissolves. When the cake is done, transfer it to a wire rack (still in the tin) and use a skewer or toothpick to poke holes in the surface. Spoon the lemon soak over the top and allow it to cool in the tin.

When you’re ready to ice the cake, remove it from the tin by running a palette knife or butter knife along the edges. Turn out the cake and remove the parchment from the bottom. Place it back onto the rack while you prepare the icing. Put the sifted icing sugar into a bowl and add the smaller amount of lemon juice. Mix with a small spoon or spatula until all the icing sugar is dissolved. If the icing seems thick, you can thin it out with a bit more juice. Spoon the icing over the cake, covering the top completely and allowing any excess icing to drizzle down the sides. Leave the icing to set before serving.

Book credit: Fruitful by Sarah Johnson. Published by Kyle Books. Photography: Patricia Niven.

Cook more from this book
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
North African Lamb with Plums

Read the review:click here
Buy this book:
Fruitful by Sarah Johnson
£30, Kyle Books

North African Lamb with Plums recipe by Sarah Johnson

Plums add brightness and a touch of sweetness to this sticky, spice-scented lamb. Serve with steamed couscous or rice and something green like slow-cooked chard.

SERVES 6–8

Ingredients:
1.2–1.5kg (2lb 10oz–3lb 5oz) lamb shoulder, on the bone, excess fat trimmed
2 teaspoons cumin seeds 2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
3cm (1¼in) piece of ginger, finely chopped
olive oil
2 medium onions, sliced
10 medium plums
1 cinnamon stick salt and pepper

For the chermoula:
1cm (½in) piece of ginger, peeled and diced
1 fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 garlic clove
½ teaspoon toasted cumin seeds
2 slices Lemon Confit in Oil (see page 41) finely chopped, or the zest of 1 lemon
juice of ½ lemon
25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley
50g (1¾oz) fresh coriander

Lightly score the top of the lamb shoulder, then season with salt and pepper. Toast the cumin and coriander seeds until fragrant, then place them in a mortar with the garlic and pound into a paste. Add the red chilli, ginger and a tablespoon or two of olive oil and mix together. Rub the marinade over the lamb shoulder, then cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove from the refrigerator 2 hours before cooking and allow it to come to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3.

Scatter the onions over the base of a roasting tray. Slice four of the plums, removing the stones, then add them to the tray with the cinnamon. Place the lamb on top, skin side up, and add 400ml (14fl oz) of water. Cover loosely with a piece of foil and roast for 2 hours. Flip the lamb and cook, covered for another 2 hours. Remove the foil and turn the lamb once more, so the skin side is facing up. Add a splash of more water if the tray looks dry, then place it back into the oven, uncovered, and increase the temperature to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Continue to cook for 1–1½ hours, basting every 30 minutes or so, until the skin is crisp and the meat is falling from the bone. Remove from the oven, transfer the lamb to a board and allow it to rest in a warm place, loosely covered, for at least 30 minutes.

Increase the temperature to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7 and halve and stone the remaining six plums. Place them into a ceramic casserole. Strain the juices from the roasting tray, then pour enough juice over the plums to come up one-third of the way. Reserve the leftover juices. Roast in the oven for 10–15 minutes until plums are soft and slightly caramelized around the edges.

For the chermoula, place the ginger, red chilli, garlic, cumin and a pinch of salt in a mortar and pound into a paste. Transfer to a bowl and add the confit lemon and lemon juice. Finely chop the parsley and coriander, then fold into the other ingredients and add the oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. To serve, carve the lamb into portions and arrange on a platter. Top with roasted plums, drizzle over any remaining juices, and accompany with a bowl of chermoula.

Book credit: Fruitful by Sarah Johnson. Published by Kyle Books. Photography: Patricia Niven.

Cook more from this book
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake

Read the review: click here
Buy this book:
Fruitful by Sarah Johnson
£30, Kyle Books

Fruitful by Sarah Johnson – Cookbook Review

Who is Sarah Johnson?
Sarah Johnson is an American-born pastry chef who trained under Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, before working at Skye Gyngell’s acclaimed Spring restaurant in London, and Heckfield Place in Hampshire. Johnson is known for her passion for using seasonal, sustainable ingredients, transforming them into innovative desserts and cakes that celebrate the best of what nature has to offer. Followers are treated to a collection of her stunning creations, and an inside glimpse of her farm-to-table approach to cooking, on her social media account @sarahjohnsoncooks. Fruitful is her debut cookbook.

What is Fruitful’s USP?
Described by Darina Allen as ‘a delicious celebration of ripe and seasonal produce’, Fruitful offers over 80 sweet and savoury recipes that showcase fruit in all its glory. Accompanying the recipes are a selection of pairing recommendations, flavour charts, interviews with regenerative farmers from around the world, and expert advice on mastering key techniques to help you make the most out of your produce.

What will I love?
The thought and detail that has gone into putting this book together shines through. Some books feel rather rushed, but this one is almost crafted like a work of art. The recipes are inventive and elegant, with almost all accompanied by stunning photographs which leave you hoping you have the ingredients so you can start cooking straight away.

Johnson is generous with her knowledge, sharing tips and tricks in the gentle manner of a friend leading you on a foodie journey. You can’t help but be inspired by page after page of sweet and savoury ideas that showcase the sheer versatility of fruit. Fruitful feels so much more than a cookbook, it is a joyous celebration of fruit and farming that will deepen your knowledge and broaden your culinary horizons.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Alongside the main introduction which details Johnson’s culinary journey and philosophy, each chapter and recipe also includes its own introduction. There are several pages dedicated to a detailed explanation of the various ‘Techniques for Cooking with Fruit’, breakout boxes on everything from how to curate a seasonal fruit bowl no matter what the time of year, to favourite flavour combinations. Weaved throughout the book are interviews with various producers who share fascinating insights into their work.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not really. Johnson offers variations throughout the book so you can adjust the recipes depending on the season and/or what you already have available. For example, stracciatella features in the ‘Pizza with Peaches, Stracciatella, Rocket and Pesto’, but burrata and mozzarella are suggested alternatives. The odd recipe uses ingredients like coconut flour (‘Coconut Rum Cake with Peaches in Syrup’) and peach leaves (Vin de Pêche’), but the vast majority rely on ingredients that aren’t too tricky to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There are a variety of simple and more complex recipes. Fuss-free ideas like ‘Blackcurrant Jelly’ and ‘Strawberry Sorbet’ sit alongside more involved recipes like the beautiful ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’. All are explained in a detailed yet accessible manner, clearly outlining the steps, with photos offering additional guidance where necessary.

Stand-out recipes?
You could be forgiven for thinking that the stand-out recipes would all be sweet, but the savoury options are equally impressive. The ‘Goats Cheese Soufflés with Spring Herb Salad and Roasted Cherries’ are inspired, while the ‘North African Lamb with Plums’ is a deliciously sweet, sticky and subtly spiced slow-cooked dish that is perfect for impressing loved ones. It is tricky to select just a few ‘stand-out’ sweet options, but the indulgent ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’, zesty ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ and sophisticated ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’ are not to be missed.

How often will I cook from this book?
This isn’t the kind of cookbook you will make something from every day of the week, but there is much to learn from the various charts and tables which will influence your cooking. Recipes cover everything from cakes, ice cream and jam to slow-roast meats, seasonal salads and sustainable fish. There is plenty of variety too, whether you want a teatime treat (‘Polenta Olive Oil Muffins with Blackberries’), a show stopping tart (‘Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts’ or a simple supper (‘Lemony Chicken Piccata’).

Any negatives?
Whilst not prohibitively extravagant, a few of the recipes are quite expensive to make due to the need to purchase certain liqueurs. Some recipes rely on a rather large number of eggs – ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’ uses 8 yolks and ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ calls for 8 whole eggs and 12 yolks. To her credit, Johnson acknowledges that the latter may seem excessive, but assures us they are necessary. Conscious of avoiding waste, she recommends saving the whites for her ‘Lemon Meringue Pie’ or ‘Meringues’ later in the book (as a side note, I would also heartily encourage you to try making your own ricciarelli, a deliciously soft Tuscan treat half-way between a macaron and an amaretti).

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a beautiful book which will inspire you to step outside of your comfort zone and cook more confidently, creatively and sustainably with seasonal fruit.

Cuisine: Seasonal British with Italian and French influences
Suitable for: Foodies and keen cooks who want to be more adventurous, and sustainable, with their cooking
Great for fans of: Alice Walters, Darina Allen and Skye Gygnell
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: Fruitful: Sweet and Savoury Fruit Recipes Inspired by Farms, Orchards and Gardens
£30.00, Kyle Books

Cook the Book:
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Make More with Less by Kitty Coles – Cookbook Review

Who is Kitty Coles?
Kitty Coles is a cook, recipe developer and food stylist with a passion for celebrating seasonal ingredients and fresh produce. Over the last eight years she has worked for publications such as The Telegraph and delicious. and on best-selling cookbooks including The Borough Market Cookbook, Mezcla and Pasta Grannies, earning a reputation for creating stunning recipes that leave you hungry for more. She is currently the food writer at @theglossmag and regularly updates followers with her daily eats on instagram @kittycoles. Make More with Less is her debut cookbook.

What is Make More with Less’ USP?
Right now, everyone is looking for ways to make their food go further and Make More with Less is here to help with versatile low-waste, low-fuss and low-effort recipes. Each chapter begins with a core recipe, followed by a selection of recipes that use it as a base. There are also ideas utilising the main ingredient to help you transform leftovers into flavour-packed dishes. Coles guarantees there’ll be no lengthy lists of unusual and/or expensive ingredients.

What will I love?
In a world of ‘food trends’ and obscure ‘must-have’ ingredients that you fork out a fortune for only to use once, Make More with Less is a refreshingly down-to-earth, practical cookbook. That isn’t to say the recipes are dull or uninspiring. It is clear that much thought has gone into the flavours and textures; imagine cooling honey-infused yoghurt designed to balance out zesty lemon potatoes and garnishes like crispy onions and nutty almond breadcrumbs.

You could be forgiven for assuming a book focused on some of the most-wasted foods might be a bit lacklustre, but the ideas such as ‘Very Oniony Pasta with Parmesan and Black Pepper’ (imagine a love-child of French Onion Soup and Cacio e Pepe) and ‘Salted Sesame Caramelised Breadcrumbs with Ice Cream and Olive Oil’ are innovative and exciting.

Coles promotes creativity and adaptability in the kitchen. She explains how to master basic recipes like meatballs and then encourages readers to explore beyond the classic ‘pasta and tomato sauce’ combination with suggestions for soups or serving them with yoghurt, herbs and flatbread. This championing of flexibility runs throughout the book with recipes like the ‘Any Cake Cake’ including several flavour variations and fruit toppings, as well as advice on how to adjust the recipe for different tin sizes.

It is refreshing to see some recipes that serve two. Often recipes are designed for groups of four and, while they can be halved, it feels more inclusive and is perfect for those who live alone and don’t fancy batch-cooking something to eat four days in a row.

Put simply, this is an empowering book full of delicious recipes, tips for using up odds and ends and striking, achievable, photography, all designed to help you develop confidence in the kitchen.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Sort of. There are no lengthy essays but there is an introduction that runs to several pages and each recipe includes its own paragraph. Coles also goes into detail about some of the ‘main’ ingredients with pages of subjects like ‘How to Roast a Chicken’ and ‘The Perfect Potato’.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. The book is designed to help use up some of the most wasted food items using simple, seasonal and affordable everyday ingredients. Coles also stays true to the promise she makes in the introduction not to send us out hunting for harissa or ‘Nduja. There is a useful ‘Note on Ingredients’ which includes a list of what she always has in the house which is a good base for any cook.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
A couple refer to ‘glugs’ of oil, but then the overall tone of the book is designed to be relaxed and encourage intuitive cooking. The recipes themselves are low on the faff factor with many on the table in under 30 minutes.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Baked Leek and Mustard Mashed Potato’ is a must-try for any mash potato fans while the green sauce from the ‘Roast Chicken with Green Sauce’ will become your new go-to to serve with a host of other dishes. ‘Onion Butter Beans with Crispy Garlic and Pickled Chillies’ is ideal for anyone looking for an alternative to hummus, and don’t miss the ‘Schnitzel with Curry Mayo’. In the sweet corner, the ‘Any Cake Cake’ is a delicious, versatile cake to make all year round, and ‘Brown Sugar Custard with Biscuit Crumb’is a must-make.

How often will I cook from this book?
The recipes are designed to be adjusted to suit your personal taste and what you have available, so you could easily make versions of the dishes regularly. There is a good variety of recipes for every occasion and the wealth of advice on leftovers will help you save money and reduce waste throughout the week.

Any negatives?
If you haven’t read the introduction, the structure and chapter breakdown might seem a bit confusing at first and does make the book a bit tricky to navigate. The ‘Meat and Fish’ chapter is mostly focused on chicken (although there are other fish recipes in different chapters). It would also be good to see a broader range of puds.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This book will give you the confidence and knowledge to transform everyday ingredients into delicious meals, with minimal effort.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities looking for fuss-free culinary inspiration.
Great for fans of: MOB and Claire Thomson
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Make More With Less: Foolproof Recipes to Make Your Food Go Further
£22.00, Hardie Grant

Cook the Book:
Baked Leek and Mustard Mashed Potato
Brown Sugar Custard with Biscuit Crumb
Leftover Chicken Tacos

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

One Pan Chicken by Claire Thomson – Cookbook Review

Who is Claire Thomson?
If you haven’t already heard of her, Claire Thomson is a chef and food writer behind the immensely popular @5oclockapron where she shares (almost) daily reels of the food she cooks for her family of 5. She is famed for her enthusiasm for fuss-free food, encouraging followers to skip the stress and embrace joy in their cooking, all while celebrating seasonal, sustainable ingredients. She is the author of 9 cookbooks — including the award-winning Tomato: 70 Recipes Celebrating the Extraordinary Tomato and immensely popular Home Cookery Year: Four Seasons, Over 200 Recipes for All Possible Occasions — and has written for the Guardian, Telegraph, Good Food and many others. She also recently launched the ‘5 o’clock apron podcast’ where she ‘chops and chats’ with guests from a host of professions as they share what they cook every day in their real-life kitchens.

What is One Pan Chicken’s USP?
Jumping on the popularity of ‘One Pot’ and ‘One Tin’ cookbooks, One Pan Chicken promises 70 simple, delicious and inventive recipes using various popular cuts of chicken and one casserole dish, roasting pan, baking tray, frying pan or stockpot.

What will I love?
Chicken is a regular in most people’s shopping baskets, but it is easy to get stuck in a rut when it comes to recipes. Thomson provides the solution with a plethora of adventurous ideas inspired by cuisines across the world, from ‘Miso Butter Chicken’ to ‘Hungarian Chicken Paprikash’. For a book confined to one ‘hero’ ingredient, there is an impressive variety, from something light like a ‘Caesar Salad’ or warming like a ‘Chicken with Borlotti Beans, Cavolo Nero and Rosemary’. There’s recipes for both oven and hob and that utilise breasts, thighs, wings or a whole chicken to delicious effect. The recipes (all accompanied by a beautifully shot photo) genuinely feel ‘new’ and will inject a little excitement into your mealtimes.

Is it good bedtime reading?
The focus of the book is on flavoursome recipes for busy people. If you are expecting essays on free-range chicken, sustainable poultry farming and/or the origins of various chicken dishes (akin to the beautifully written seasonal introductions found in Thomson’s Home Cookery Year) you will be disappointed. In fairness, the one page introduction touches on these points, and each recipe includes an introduction which shares advice and the inspiration behind the dish.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
One of Thomson’s many strong points is that she always ensures her recipes are accessible and includes alternative suggestions if an ingredient is remotely tricky to find. For example, the ‘Chicken Braciole’ uses pecorino in the filling instead of the harder-to-source, but traditional, provolone (although the option is included for those able to find it). Likewise, the ‘Elote-style Chicken with Corn’ suggests using feta while mentioning that Cotija and Chihuahua are authentic choices. You may struggle to source the fried maize (kikos) used in the recipe, but you could always make your own. There is the odd mention of more unusual ingredients like rosewater, dried sour cherries, Japanese seven spice (togarashi), truffle oil, truffle paste and dried porcini mushrooms, but nowadays they aren’t too difficult to source.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Like all her books (and recipe videos on her 5 o’clock apron instagram), Thomson’s instructions are clear and detailed enough to guide even the most nervous cooks. The only slight criticism is that it would be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Sticky Sesame Marmalade Chicken Wings’ are dangerously addictive (be sure to make extra), while the ‘Fried Chicken with Kimchi’ is a must-try for fans of sweet and sour dishes. Meanwhile, the ‘Chicken Dauphinoise with Dijon and Cream’ is the ultimate comfort food on a cold and chilly day, while the ‘Za’atar Chicken served with Hummus, Pine Nuts and Pomegranate’ is a jewelled, flavour-packed dish that will transport your taste buds straight to the Middle East. Don’t miss the ‘Chicken with Tortilla Chips, Black Beans and Feta’ in the ‘Leftovers’ chapter – in fact, I would recommend cooking extra chicken just to give it a go…

How often will I cook from this book?
This could easily become a go-to cookbook when you want something simple and stress-free, that still delivers on flavour. The variety of recipes is what makes this book such a winner. From a classic ‘Chicken and Leek Pot Pie’ to a vibrant ‘Chimichurri Chicken with Roast Squash’ — not to mention the Greek-inspired ‘Chicken Soup with Egg and Lemon’ and the ‘Chicken Baguette with Tarragon, Gherkin and Mustard Butter’ — there genuinely is something for every mood, season, taste and occasion.

Any negatives?
Despite being part of the ‘One Pan’ cookbook cohort, not all recipes are ‘complete meals’ and would typically call for rice, pasta, potatoes etc alongside (thus requiring an extra pan).

Should I buy the book?
A definite ‘yes’. Thomson has, once again, excelled at creating yet another cookbook full of enticing, accessible recipes that leave you counting down until suppertime. One Pan Chicken is a must-have for anyone looking to enhance their culinary repertoire with flavour-packed fuss-free chicken recipes that will delight the whole family.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Anyone looking for inspiring, faff-free ways to celebrate the humble chicken.
Great for fans of: Rukmini Ayer
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: One Pan Chicken: 70 All-in-One Chicken Recipes For Simple Meals, Every Day
£20.00, Quadrille

Cook the Book
Chicken Pilaf
Chicken Tagine with Chickpeas, Dates and Apricots
Fried Chicken with Kimchi

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Roasted New Potato and Green Bean Salad with Mint recipe by Ceri Jones

No summer BBQ is complete without a potato salad, and this is my go-to. I know, I know, waxy new potatoes are meant to be served boiled, but I don’t love the papery skins so prefer to roast until the skins are crispy yet the insides remain soft. I sometimes use thinly sliced shallots instead of spring onions, swap the mint for watercress or the green beans for asparagus.

SERVES 2 AS A SIDE | TIME TO PREPARE – 40 MINUTES

400g/14oz baby or new potatoes, scrubbed clean and left whole if small enough or chopped into bite-sized pieces
1 tbsp olive oil
150g/5½oz green beans, end trimmed and cut in half or into 3 x 2.5cm/1 inch pieces
2 spring onions, very thinly sliced on an angle
zest of 1 lemon
large handful of mint leaves (approx. 5g/1/8oz )
salt and pepper

FOR THE DRESSING
½ tsp wholegrain mustard
½ tsp honey
juice of half a lemon (approx. 1 tbsp)
3 tbsp olive oil

Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/450°F/gas mark 7. On a baking tray, toss the potatoes with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt. Roast for 20 minutes. Reduce to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6 and cook for another 15 minutes, until crispy on the outside and cooked through on the inside. Remove from the oven and cool off for a short time, around 5 minutes. Meanwhile, make the dressing. In a small bowl stir together the mustard, honey, and lemon juice until combined. Whisk in the oil until emulsified.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside for the flavours to mingle.

Bring a small saucepan of salted water to the boil, then blanch the beans for 2–3 minutes, until just al dente. Drain and rinse immediately under cold water until cold to the touch. Shake off any excess water then leave to dry on kitchen paper. To put the salad together, toss the cooked potatoes in a medium-sized bowl with the beans, chopped spring onions, and enough dressing to just coat. Season with lemon zest, then tear your mint leaves and add to the bowl (they will go black more quickly if sliced). Transfer to a serving platter or bowl to serve.

Buy this book: It Starts with Veg: 100 Seasonal Suppers and Sides
£20.00, Pavilion Books

Read the review

Fruit scones recipe by Ranveet Gill

One of my earliest pastry jobs involved making hundreds of scones each morning for afternoon tea service. The key was never to overmix the dough and to get your hands involved to bring it together, then to rest it before cutting. A scone is best served on the day it is baked with copious amounts of clotted cream and jam on the side.

MAKES 6 SCONES

Equipment
flat baking tray
15g/1 tbsp raisins
just-boiled water, to cover
250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
12g/21/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp fine salt
30g caster sugar
75g cold unsalted butter, cubed
25g (prepped weight) eating apple
(approx. 1/4 small apple), cored and grated
125ml full-fat milk
1 egg, beaten, for the egg wash

Put the raisins in a small, heatproof bowl, cover with just-boiled water and leave to soak for 20 minutes, then drain.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add the butter and use your fingertips to breadcrumb it together. Mix through the apple and strained raisins.

Keeping one hand out of the bowl, make a well in the centre and add the milk. Use your hand (that’s in the bowl) to bring it together initially to a loose dough, but do not overwork it. Tip this onto your workbench and then use both hands to gently bring it together to form a dough. Gently shape into a disc, then wrap tightly in baking paper or clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/gas mark 6. Line the baking tray with baking paper.

Lightly dust your workbench and a 6.5cm (23/4in) round biscuit cutter with flour. Unwrap the chilled dough and gently roll it into a round, about 3cm (11/4in) thick. Position the cutter, then press down in one straight motion (don’t twist the cutter) with your hand to cut out each scone, then gather the trimmings and cut out another scone.

Place the rounds on the lined baking tray, then brush the top of each one with egg wash.

Bake for 18–20 minutes or until risen and lightly golden.

Remove from the oven, transfer the scones to a wire rack and allow to cool fully before serving. Serve split and spread with butter and jam, or clotted cream and jam, or all three!

These scones are best eaten fresh on the day they are made.

Cook more from this book
Fig rolls

Read the review

Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Fig Rolls Recipe by Ranveet Gill

I am a snacker and am so at any opportunity, be that flight, road trip, wedding, whatever. I’ll always make time to go to the shops and buy copious amounts of snacks to share. When I was at Uni, I got persuaded to go to a camping festival, so I left my friend in charge of the compulsory snack pilgrimage, only to find out all he bought were packets of fig rolls. Bizarre. He then got really high and shoved two whole packets of fig rolls into his mouth one after the other quickly. We were in stitches. I think he woke up the next day and realized his error. Whenever I make or eat fig rolls, I think of him.

MAKES ABOUT 20

Equipment
large flat baking tray

For the dough
50g unsalted butter, at room temperature
50g caster sugar
1 egg
1 capful (approx. 5ml/1 tsp) of almond extract (optional)
150g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
30g ground almonds
1/4 tsp baking powder
pinch of Maldon or flaky salt

For the fig filling
300ml water
30g soft light brown sugar
200g dried figs, stems removed and chopped
1 cinnamon stick
demerara sugar, for sprinkling

Make the dough. In a large bowl, beat the butter and caster sugar together until pale and fluffy. Mix in the egg, scraping down the sides of the bowl, along with the almond extract, if using.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt together. Add this to the butter mixture and mix until a dough forms. Knead for a minute or two until it’s homogeneous.

Pat the dough into a disc, wrap in clingfilm or baking paper and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the fig filling. In a medium saucepan, stir together the water, brown sugar, figs and cinnamon stick. Bring this to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, then simmer until the water has reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Tip the fig mixture into a heatproof bowl and leave until it is cool to touch, then refrigerate until cold, approx. 20 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick before using. Blitz to form a paste using a food processor.

Line a kitchen tray and the baking tray with baking paper and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle 38 x 18cm (15 x 7in). Cut the strip in half lengthways. Place one strip on a large sheet of baking paper – this is going to help you roll it into shape.

Spoon the fig filling into a piping bag fitted with a large plain nozzle, then pipe half of the fig filling along the length, leaving about a 2cm (3/4in) border on one side which will help you to close it. Use a pastry brush to brush water along this border. Use the baking paper to help lift the other side of the pastry over the filling and onto the dampened edge, as you would do when making sausage rolls. Use a fork to press down and seal the edges together. Place this on the lined kitchen tray and transfer to the fridge, then repeat with the second strip of pastry and the rest of the fig filling. Refrigerate for 20 minutes while the oven preheats.

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/gas mark 4.

Use a sharp knife to cut across each long roll and portion the fig rolls – cutting each one to about 3–4cm (11/4–11/2in) in size works nicely. Transfer the fig rolls to the lined baking tray, then brush them with a little water before sprinkling over a little demerara sugar.

Bake for 15–18 minutes or until golden.

Remove from the oven, cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving.

Leftovers will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Cook more from this book
Fruit scones

Read the review

Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Cooking with Anna by Anna Haugh – Cookbook Review

Who is Anna Haugh?
A Dublin-born chef who has spent over 20 years honing her craft working for some of the most highly regarded names in the industry including Shane Osborne (Pied a Terre), Philip Howard (The Square) and the Gordon Ramsay Group. In 2019, she opened her own restaurant, Myrtle, named after the iconic Irish chef and founder of Ballymaloe House, Myrtle Allen, and soon became famous for her modern Irish cuisine inspired by classic Irish recipes and culture. Haugh’s obvious talent, combined with her natural, open manner, has seen her become a firm favourite on TV and radio. She appears regularly on Saturday Kitchen and the Morning Live breakfast show. In 2022, she also stood in for Monica Galetti as a judge on Masterchef: The Professionals. Cooking with Anna is her debut cookbook.

What is Cooking with Anna’s USP?
Understanding the complexities of juggling work alongside a busy family life, Haugh has created 85 recipes designed to show that delicious food need not be complicated. Full of recipes inspired from around the world including modern twists on hearty Irish classics alongside curries, tacos and gazpacho, Cooking with Anna promises to help you cook with confidence for every occasion, from easy weeknight suppers to celebration family roasts. Haugh also draws on her stellar culinary career to share top tips and tricks on how to level up the flavour and add a touch of casual elegance to simple home cooking.

What will I love?
Haugh’s warmth resonates throughout, from the introduction to the anecdotes and recipes. It feels like a very personal book filled with recipes that you could imagine Haugh cooks at home. The recipes are simple to prepare, use affordable ingredients and don’t leave you with mountains of washing up, while also including elements of finesse that make them feel that bit more special.

The selection of beautifully shot recipes is well thought out with a variety of meat, fish and plant-based dishes. The ‘Veggies’ chapter is full of innovative, affordable ideas that brim with flavour without breaking the bank; think ‘Kidney Bean Meatballs with Pomodoro Sauce’, ‘No Waste Vegan Pulled Pork with Slaw’ and ‘Pea & Cheddar Burgers’. While Haugh doesn’t claim that Parmesan (which she uses liberally) is vegetarian, it is worth remembering that Parmesan contains animal rennet and should be swapped for a vegetarian-friendly hard cheese if cooking for vegetarians.

As well as options for every diet, there is something for every occasion too. Alongside the aforementioned ‘20-minute Dinners’ and ‘Veggies’ chapters, there are also ones dedicated to ‘Lunch & Brunch’, ‘Fish’, ‘Meat’, ‘Weekend Projects’ and ‘Sweets’. Some recipes are perfect for entertaining, others more suited for more low-key affairs (plenty serve 2 which is ideal for couples or those living on their own, obviously they can be scaled up). The ‘Tools of the Trade’ section is also worth a mention, helpfully dividing equipment into ‘Essential’, ‘Useful’ and ‘Next Level’ so you can decide what you need depending on your culinary aims.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Fairly good. There are no lengthy essays, but Haugh’s introduction, taking you through her culinary history and philosophy, spans several pages. It is followed by the ‘Tools of the Trade’ section (mentioned above), plus each recipe includes its own introduction with interesting anecdotes and tips.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. The hardest ingredient to find would probably be the vegetarian Worcestershire sauce mentioned in the ‘Lentil Ragu’. Apart from that, all the other ingredients are widely available.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Haugh has nailed her brief, proving that you can make very good food with very little fuss. Even the most hesitant cooks will feel inspired by the opening ‘20 Minute Dinners’ chapter which features dishes such as ‘Balsamic Prawns with Cherry Tomatoes & Creamy Polenta’ and ‘Coconut Cod Curry’, that are not as daunting as they sound thanks to Haugh’s clear recipes. The ‘Weekend Projects’ chapter includes more complex recipes but once again, Haugh effortlessly guides you through the steps without making them overcomplicated. A fair few recipes also include ‘Tricks of the Trade’ to help explain some of the culinary theory.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Ultimate Cheese & Ham Double Decker Toastie’ is perfect comfort food while the ‘Potato Cakes with Rashers and Mushrooms’ is a delicious way to use up leftover mash (the vegetarian alternative with asparagus is a must-try during asparagus season). The ‘Stuffed & Roast Chicken Breast with Potato Rosti’ is worth making for the moreish rosti alone, and ‘Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Lightly Poached Strawberries & Ripped Basil’ is a beautiful summer pud.

How often will I cook from this book?
Fairly often. As mentioned above, every culinary occasion is covered. Dishes like the ‘Wednesday Night Curry’ are ideal for a flavoursome, mid-week meal, while ‘The Big Celebration Roast’ and ‘Black Forest Gateau’ are perfect for when you want to push the boat out and impress. The fact that Haugh keeps to her promise in the introduction that ‘you don’t need to spend a fortune or be left with mountains of mess’ is another reason why this could easily become a firm favourite.

Any negatives?
It would be helpful if the recipes had an estimated cooking time at the top so you could loosely gauge how long it will take.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Cooking with Anna is full of modern, uncomplicated recipes, alongside useful tips and tricks, that will help you expand your culinary repertoire, improve your skills, and increase your confidence in the kitchen.

Cuisine: Modern Irish
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Marcus Wareing and Rachel Allen
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Cooking with Anna: Modern home cooking with Irish heart
£26.00, Bloomsbury

Cook the Book
Wednesday Night Curry
Pea and Cheddar Burgers
Lemon, Lemongrass and Cardamom Posset

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.