TV chefs

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain by Tom Kerridge Cookbook Review

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain Cookbook cover.

Tom Kerridge is surely a man who needs no introduction by now? For those of you who haven’t heard of him, he is the proprietor of several bars and restaurants including The Hand and Flowers (the first gastropub to receive 2 Michelin stars back in 2012) and The Coach (which secured its first Michelin star in 2018). His profile soared after appearing on Great British Menu in 2010 and has released cookbooks regularly ever since (including the bestselling Proper Pub Food, Outdoor Cooking and Pub Kitchen as well as more diet-friendly titles Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet and Tom Kerridge’s Fresh Start inspired by his own weight-loss journey).

If you haven’t eaten in one of his establishments or cooked from one of his books, you have probably seen him on television (where he regularly pops up in M&S adverts, stars in his own cookery shows and documentaries, and judges on Great British Menu), tried one of his M&S meals, attended a Pub in the Park food festival, or come across his campaigns championing the hospitality industry or fighting child food poverty (through Full Time Meals).

This time, Kerridge has turned his attention to Britain, or rather, British ingredients, promising 100 recipes that celebrate the best of what this country has to offer.

What will I love?
If you are interested in learning more about British produce, and how to make the most of them in your kitchen, you will find plenty to enjoy here. There are over 100 recipes – divided into chapters of ‘Vegetables’, ‘Fish & Shellfish’, ‘Meat & Poultry’, ‘Dairy’ and ‘Fruit’ – designed to mirror the key areas that make up the backbone of the British farming industry. Options are varied, ranging from lighter dish like ‘Asparagus, Poached Egg and Hollandaise’ to a hearty ‘Family Beef Mince Pie’. The photos are beautiful too.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Yes. The introduction spans several pages, offering an enthusiastic (and very persuasive) argument for the importance of British farming. Each chapter then begins with a short introduction and the recipes also all have their own introductions explaining Kerridge’s inspiration and/or offering helpful hints.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Although some recipes mention specific cheeses, there is nothing too obscure (more readily available alternatives are also given). There is a good balance in terms of affordability; while there are recipes for Tomahawk steak and other more expensive cuts of meat and fish, plenty of less extravagant ingredients are also featured.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
The recipes range in ability, but the instructions are always clear, giving advice on what to look out for and tips on how to make certain processes easier. It would be helpful if recipe timings were included at the top.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Leek and Caerphilly Rarebit’ is wonderfully comforting, while the ‘Chicken Kyiv Dippers’ are a delicious snack (or simply a fun alternative to a classic Kyiv). Don’t miss the ‘Bacon and Mushrooms Eggs Benedict’ for an umami-rich twist on the brunch favourite and even kale avoiders could be converted by the ‘Creamy Kale Pasta with Crispy Parmesan’.

How often will I cook from this book?
There is a range of recipes for every eating occasion throughout the year: ‘Asparagus Pecorino and Lemon Pasta’ in spring, a suitably summer-y ‘Yoghurt and Apricot Parfait with Almond Praline’, a cosy, comforting autumnal ‘Blackberry, Pear and Apple Crumble’, and a warming winter ‘Turnip Gratin with Lincolnshire Poacher’. However, there is a greater emphasis on dishes geared more towards spring/summer cooking and entertaining.

Any negatives?
There are some lovely options for vegetarians (or recipes that could easily be adapted), but not many choices for vegans. The pudding options could also be more diverse, perhaps a result of the emphasis n produce available in the UK.

Should I buy the book?
If you are keen to cook more seasonally with local British ingredients, this book is perfect for you. It also offers helpful inspiration to make everyday recipes a bit more special.

Cuisine: International cuisine using British ingredients
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities.
Great for fans of: Hugh Fearnly-Whittingstall
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain
£25.00, Bloomsbury

Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain aired on ITV in July 2024.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Small Batch Cookies by Ed Kimber – Cookbook Review

Who is Edd Kimber?
A.K.A ‘The Boy Who Bakes’, Edd Kimber is an award-winning baker, food writer and Great British Bake Off (GBBO) winner. He has written several best-selling, critically acclaimed, cookbooks including One Tin Bakes (2020), One Tin Bakes Easy (2021) and Small Batch Bakes (2022). Since achieving culinary fame after GBBO, he has become a familiar fixture on television screens at home and abroad, appearing on Good Morning America, Sunday Brunch and Saturday Kitchen. He can often be found sharing his passion for baking at food festivals, cookery schools and in magazines, including olive. He also regularly shares recipes with his followers via his social media @theboywhobakes and his popular Substack newsletter. Small Batch Cookies is his 7th cookbook.

What is Small Batch Cookies’ USP?
We all have moments when we just crave a warm cookie straight from the oven. Moments when you don’t want to whip up a big batch to feed the five thousand and/or hunt out a long list of expensive ingredients. You just want to enjoy a comforting cookie (or two). These were Kimber’s inspiration for Small Batch Cookies. After all, the popularity of the infamous ‘Emergency Cookie’ in his earlier book Small Batch Bakes had proved there was a clear demand for it.

What will I love?
The concept is a clever one. It’s liberating to be able to make such an impressive variety of delicious-sounding cookie recipes (each accompanied by a beautiful photograph) without worrying about leftovers or filling the freezer. Of course, the recipes can always be scaled up so you could make larger batches if you so wish.

Kimber also caters for various diets. Think delicate gluten-free ‘Swedish Lace Cookies’ and rich ‘Chewy Flourless Double Chocolate Cookies’, vegan ‘Tahini Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies’ and ‘Speculoos-Stuffed Dark Chocolate Cookies’, and egg-free ‘Vanilla Kipferl’ and ‘Frosted Banana Bread Cookies’.

Is it good bedtime reading?
In a literary sense, not really. There is an ‘Introduction’ followed by Kimber’s ‘Perfect Cookie Manifesto’, a ‘Boring But Important Bit’ and advice on ‘Equipment’. Plus, each recipe has its own introduction. As long as you aren’t expecting long essays on the origins of the cookie, this is a joyful book to snuggle up with and contemplate your next culinary creations. I would encourage you to take a notebook to jot down a ‘to make’ list.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
There is a helpful list of recommended suppliers at the back of the book, but you should be able to find everything you need in your local supermarket for the vast majority of the recipes. The only exception would be the ‘Panela Brown Butter Shortbread’ which would need a trip to a local health shop or an online order to get your hands on panela. In fairness, Kimber does say you can use regular caster sugar, although it won’t have quite the same flavour. It is also refreshing to see vegan recipes which use regular ingredients and pretty much like-for-like substitutes (Kimber explains at the start that flax or psyllium husk egg replacers are ‘superfluous’ in small-batch baking and can easily be replaced with a splash more plant-based milk).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Kimber has ensured the recipes are as accessible as possible with helpful introductions, clear instructions (as well as explanations like ‘resting like this helps to hydrate the flour, which in turn prevents the cookies from spreading too much, leaving us with beautifully chunky cookies’), handy ‘notes’, where necessary, and storage instructions. Measurements are given for pretty much every ingredient (think 2 tsp lemon juice instead of ‘juice of 1 lemon’) so there is precious little room for error.

Stand-out recipes?
Every recipe I have tried so far has been a success. The ‘Triple Chocolate Skillet Cookie for Two’ makes for a delicious quick and easy pud served warm with a scoop of just-melting vanilla ice cream. The ‘Black Forest Brownie Crinkles’ are a must-try for brownie fans. In fact, you could skip the black forest filling and enjoy the fudgy cookies on their own.

If you ever fancied making your own version of hobnobs, the ‘Knobbly Oat Cookies’ are incredibly simple, easy to adapt for vegans and even more delicious with a layer of chocolate. Speaking of oaty cookies, don’t miss the ‘Anzac Cookies’. They have a wonderfully chewy texture and (notionally) last a long time so are ideal to make ahead. Anyone who has been lucky enough to try Sarah Nelson’s famous Grasmere Gingerbread will be delighted to see Kimber’s own interpretation. The original is a closely guarded secret, but this recipe comes very close.

How often will I cook from this book?
How often do you fancy cookies? Small Batch Cookies could easily become your go-to cookie book with recipes divided into 6 delectably titled chapters — Soft & Sumptuous; Crisp & Crunchy; Ooey Gooey; Sandwich Cookies; Chocolate Heaven; and Chewy — guaranteeing a cookie for every thinkable craving. Although the whole premise is each recipe only makes a few (servings range between 2 and 6), they can all easily be scaled up to make a full batch. You’ll probably cook more recipes from this book than a regular baking book since the smaller batches mean you can try a selection of cookies without worrying about wasting leftovers or filling your freezer to the brim.

Any negatives?
While there is something for almost every diet, the labelling of the recipes is a bit peculiar and inconsistent (for example, the Triple Ginger Molasses Cookies are vegan but there is no label to indicate they are – unlike other recipes). Plus many could easily be adapted for vegans, even though it is only mentioned in the odd recipe (think simple swaps like regular butter for plant-based butter or honey for maple syrup). One can’t help but feel Kimber missed a bit of a trick there.

It would also have been helpful to have the estimated time at the top of each recipe. This is particularly important if a recipe requires chilling.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Anyone who remotely enjoys cookies should own a copy of Small Batch Cookies.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Jane Dunn and Nicola Lamb
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Small Batch Cookies: Deliciously easy bakes for one to six people
£22.00, Kyle Books

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

One Bake, Two Ways by Ruby Bhogal – Cookbook Review

Who is Ruby Bhogal?
A former Bake-off finalist who has gone on to become a successful food writer (her work has been featured in publications such as Waitrose magazine, GQ and the Sunday Times) and TV chef. She also has her own substack newsletter, The Last Bite, and regularly keeps her followers up-to-date with her latest baking creations on social media @rubybhogal.

What’s the USP
Each of the 50 recipes is presented twice: first in its traditional form, then with a ‘veganised’ plant-based alternative. It is undoubtedly a clever and inclusive concept, promising to help teach you the skills to cater for everyone’s needs, regardless of dietary preferences.

What will I love?
Bhogal’s energy and enthusiasm for a start. Each recipe exudes her warmth and personality, from the chatty introductions to the friendly hints and tips included in each step. It feels like you are baking with a friend at your side.

There are also plenty of unique recipes that will encourage you to try new flavours and expand your baking repertoire. Sometimes dessert and baking books can feel a bit repetitive when you come across yet another for something like a tiramisu, but Bhogal offers genuinely new and exciting twists on classics (in this case, offering a ‘Malt Milk Tiramisu with Milk Chocolate’), that aren’t too outlandish.

It is a brilliant concept. Even if you have no interest in vegan cooking, you can still enjoy 50 new baking recipes. Yet, if you, or someone in your family, follows a vegan diet or needs to eat dairy-free, One Bake, Two Ways shows that it is perfectly possible to make something that is every bit as achievable and delicious.

Is it good bedtime reading?
While there aren’t any long essays, Bhogal’s friendly writing style makes the introductions a joy to read. You could happily browse through the pages marvelling out the array of bakes on offer, and the nifty tips and tricks to make them vegan-friendly, before drifting off into a sweet slumber.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
For a book which is 50% vegan, there is a distinct lack of unusual ingredients (phew!). Plant-based milk, butter and spread are all widely available, perhaps the trickiest thing to get hold of is vegan white chocolate but it is available online.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Some of the recipes are more faffy than others (e.g. the ‘Chocolate Wagon Wheels with Raspberry Jam and Hazelnut Biscuit’), but there are plenty of simpler options for when you want a quick and easy bake. As mentioned above, Bhogal’s directions are consistently clear and accessible throughout so that even the more complex recipes seem achievable.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Self-saucing Sticky Toffee Pud Tray-Cake with Stem Ginger and Chocolate’ is everything you want in a comforting winter pud, whilst the ‘Victoria Sponge Loaf with Roasted Strawberries and Mint’ is a must-make during the summer months when strawberries are in season. Meanwhile, chocoholics won’t be able to resist a slice of the unbelievably moist ‘Chocolate Fudge Sponge with Milk Chocolate Fudge Frosting’, and don’t miss the beautifully buttery ‘Cranberry, Apricot and Almond Couronne with Apricot Glaze’ which is guaranteed to impress friends and family.

How often will I cook from this book?
There are bakes for every occasion so, if you are a regular baker, there is enough to pique your interest and keep you busy. The only thing to bear in mind is that a few of the recipes call for some more expensive ingredients.

Any negatives?
The majority of the recipes include a modern twist on a classic, so if you are a staunch traditionalist who is horrified at the idea of adding chai to your custard creams or swapping the classic dark chocolate Viennese whirls for the more tropical ‘Passion Fruit Viennese Fingers with White Chocolate and Coconut Ganache’, then this probably isn’t the book for you.

It would also be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head. This is especially important for baking so you can gauge if it is going to be an ‘all-day’ recipe requiring resting, chilling, proving etc. or one that can be whipped up in an afternoon. Finally, not every recipe has a photo which may bother some more than others.

Should I buy the book?
If you love trying innovative new flavours in your bakes and/or are curious about dabbling in more plant-based baking, this is most certainly the book for you.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill, Phillip Khoury and Max La Manna
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: One Bake, Two Ways
£26.00, Pavillion

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Fruit scones recipe by Ranveet Gill

One of my earliest pastry jobs involved making hundreds of scones each morning for afternoon tea service. The key was never to overmix the dough and to get your hands involved to bring it together, then to rest it before cutting. A scone is best served on the day it is baked with copious amounts of clotted cream and jam on the side.

MAKES 6 SCONES

Equipment
flat baking tray
15g/1 tbsp raisins
just-boiled water, to cover
250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
12g/21/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp fine salt
30g caster sugar
75g cold unsalted butter, cubed
25g (prepped weight) eating apple
(approx. 1/4 small apple), cored and grated
125ml full-fat milk
1 egg, beaten, for the egg wash

Put the raisins in a small, heatproof bowl, cover with just-boiled water and leave to soak for 20 minutes, then drain.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add the butter and use your fingertips to breadcrumb it together. Mix through the apple and strained raisins.

Keeping one hand out of the bowl, make a well in the centre and add the milk. Use your hand (that’s in the bowl) to bring it together initially to a loose dough, but do not overwork it. Tip this onto your workbench and then use both hands to gently bring it together to form a dough. Gently shape into a disc, then wrap tightly in baking paper or clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/gas mark 6. Line the baking tray with baking paper.

Lightly dust your workbench and a 6.5cm (23/4in) round biscuit cutter with flour. Unwrap the chilled dough and gently roll it into a round, about 3cm (11/4in) thick. Position the cutter, then press down in one straight motion (don’t twist the cutter) with your hand to cut out each scone, then gather the trimmings and cut out another scone.

Place the rounds on the lined baking tray, then brush the top of each one with egg wash.

Bake for 18–20 minutes or until risen and lightly golden.

Remove from the oven, transfer the scones to a wire rack and allow to cool fully before serving. Serve split and spread with butter and jam, or clotted cream and jam, or all three!

These scones are best eaten fresh on the day they are made.

Cook more from this book
Fig rolls

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Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Fig Rolls Recipe by Ranveet Gill

I am a snacker and am so at any opportunity, be that flight, road trip, wedding, whatever. I’ll always make time to go to the shops and buy copious amounts of snacks to share. When I was at Uni, I got persuaded to go to a camping festival, so I left my friend in charge of the compulsory snack pilgrimage, only to find out all he bought were packets of fig rolls. Bizarre. He then got really high and shoved two whole packets of fig rolls into his mouth one after the other quickly. We were in stitches. I think he woke up the next day and realized his error. Whenever I make or eat fig rolls, I think of him.

MAKES ABOUT 20

Equipment
large flat baking tray

For the dough
50g unsalted butter, at room temperature
50g caster sugar
1 egg
1 capful (approx. 5ml/1 tsp) of almond extract (optional)
150g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
30g ground almonds
1/4 tsp baking powder
pinch of Maldon or flaky salt

For the fig filling
300ml water
30g soft light brown sugar
200g dried figs, stems removed and chopped
1 cinnamon stick
demerara sugar, for sprinkling

Make the dough. In a large bowl, beat the butter and caster sugar together until pale and fluffy. Mix in the egg, scraping down the sides of the bowl, along with the almond extract, if using.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt together. Add this to the butter mixture and mix until a dough forms. Knead for a minute or two until it’s homogeneous.

Pat the dough into a disc, wrap in clingfilm or baking paper and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the fig filling. In a medium saucepan, stir together the water, brown sugar, figs and cinnamon stick. Bring this to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, then simmer until the water has reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Tip the fig mixture into a heatproof bowl and leave until it is cool to touch, then refrigerate until cold, approx. 20 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick before using. Blitz to form a paste using a food processor.

Line a kitchen tray and the baking tray with baking paper and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle 38 x 18cm (15 x 7in). Cut the strip in half lengthways. Place one strip on a large sheet of baking paper – this is going to help you roll it into shape.

Spoon the fig filling into a piping bag fitted with a large plain nozzle, then pipe half of the fig filling along the length, leaving about a 2cm (3/4in) border on one side which will help you to close it. Use a pastry brush to brush water along this border. Use the baking paper to help lift the other side of the pastry over the filling and onto the dampened edge, as you would do when making sausage rolls. Use a fork to press down and seal the edges together. Place this on the lined kitchen tray and transfer to the fridge, then repeat with the second strip of pastry and the rest of the fig filling. Refrigerate for 20 minutes while the oven preheats.

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/gas mark 4.

Use a sharp knife to cut across each long roll and portion the fig rolls – cutting each one to about 3–4cm (11/4–11/2in) in size works nicely. Transfer the fig rolls to the lined baking tray, then brush them with a little water before sprinkling over a little demerara sugar.

Bake for 15–18 minutes or until golden.

Remove from the oven, cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving.

Leftovers will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Cook more from this book
Fruit scones

Read the review

Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Cooking with Anna by Anna Haugh – Cookbook Review

Who is Anna Haugh?
A Dublin-born chef who has spent over 20 years honing her craft working for some of the most highly regarded names in the industry including Shane Osborne (Pied a Terre), Philip Howard (The Square) and the Gordon Ramsay Group. In 2019, she opened her own restaurant, Myrtle, named after the iconic Irish chef and founder of Ballymaloe House, Myrtle Allen, and soon became famous for her modern Irish cuisine inspired by classic Irish recipes and culture. Haugh’s obvious talent, combined with her natural, open manner, has seen her become a firm favourite on TV and radio. She appears regularly on Saturday Kitchen and the Morning Live breakfast show. In 2022, she also stood in for Monica Galetti as a judge on Masterchef: The Professionals. Cooking with Anna is her debut cookbook.

What is Cooking with Anna’s USP?
Understanding the complexities of juggling work alongside a busy family life, Haugh has created 85 recipes designed to show that delicious food need not be complicated. Full of recipes inspired from around the world including modern twists on hearty Irish classics alongside curries, tacos and gazpacho, Cooking with Anna promises to help you cook with confidence for every occasion, from easy weeknight suppers to celebration family roasts. Haugh also draws on her stellar culinary career to share top tips and tricks on how to level up the flavour and add a touch of casual elegance to simple home cooking.

What will I love?
Haugh’s warmth resonates throughout, from the introduction to the anecdotes and recipes. It feels like a very personal book filled with recipes that you could imagine Haugh cooks at home. The recipes are simple to prepare, use affordable ingredients and don’t leave you with mountains of washing up, while also including elements of finesse that make them feel that bit more special.

The selection of beautifully shot recipes is well thought out with a variety of meat, fish and plant-based dishes. The ‘Veggies’ chapter is full of innovative, affordable ideas that brim with flavour without breaking the bank; think ‘Kidney Bean Meatballs with Pomodoro Sauce’, ‘No Waste Vegan Pulled Pork with Slaw’ and ‘Pea & Cheddar Burgers’. While Haugh doesn’t claim that Parmesan (which she uses liberally) is vegetarian, it is worth remembering that Parmesan contains animal rennet and should be swapped for a vegetarian-friendly hard cheese if cooking for vegetarians.

As well as options for every diet, there is something for every occasion too. Alongside the aforementioned ‘20-minute Dinners’ and ‘Veggies’ chapters, there are also ones dedicated to ‘Lunch & Brunch’, ‘Fish’, ‘Meat’, ‘Weekend Projects’ and ‘Sweets’. Some recipes are perfect for entertaining, others more suited for more low-key affairs (plenty serve 2 which is ideal for couples or those living on their own, obviously they can be scaled up). The ‘Tools of the Trade’ section is also worth a mention, helpfully dividing equipment into ‘Essential’, ‘Useful’ and ‘Next Level’ so you can decide what you need depending on your culinary aims.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Fairly good. There are no lengthy essays, but Haugh’s introduction, taking you through her culinary history and philosophy, spans several pages. It is followed by the ‘Tools of the Trade’ section (mentioned above), plus each recipe includes its own introduction with interesting anecdotes and tips.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. The hardest ingredient to find would probably be the vegetarian Worcestershire sauce mentioned in the ‘Lentil Ragu’. Apart from that, all the other ingredients are widely available.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Haugh has nailed her brief, proving that you can make very good food with very little fuss. Even the most hesitant cooks will feel inspired by the opening ‘20 Minute Dinners’ chapter which features dishes such as ‘Balsamic Prawns with Cherry Tomatoes & Creamy Polenta’ and ‘Coconut Cod Curry’, that are not as daunting as they sound thanks to Haugh’s clear recipes. The ‘Weekend Projects’ chapter includes more complex recipes but once again, Haugh effortlessly guides you through the steps without making them overcomplicated. A fair few recipes also include ‘Tricks of the Trade’ to help explain some of the culinary theory.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Ultimate Cheese & Ham Double Decker Toastie’ is perfect comfort food while the ‘Potato Cakes with Rashers and Mushrooms’ is a delicious way to use up leftover mash (the vegetarian alternative with asparagus is a must-try during asparagus season). The ‘Stuffed & Roast Chicken Breast with Potato Rosti’ is worth making for the moreish rosti alone, and ‘Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Lightly Poached Strawberries & Ripped Basil’ is a beautiful summer pud.

How often will I cook from this book?
Fairly often. As mentioned above, every culinary occasion is covered. Dishes like the ‘Wednesday Night Curry’ are ideal for a flavoursome, mid-week meal, while ‘The Big Celebration Roast’ and ‘Black Forest Gateau’ are perfect for when you want to push the boat out and impress. The fact that Haugh keeps to her promise in the introduction that ‘you don’t need to spend a fortune or be left with mountains of mess’ is another reason why this could easily become a firm favourite.

Any negatives?
It would be helpful if the recipes had an estimated cooking time at the top so you could loosely gauge how long it will take.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Cooking with Anna is full of modern, uncomplicated recipes, alongside useful tips and tricks, that will help you expand your culinary repertoire, improve your skills, and increase your confidence in the kitchen.

Cuisine: Modern Irish
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Marcus Wareing and Rachel Allen
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Cooking with Anna: Modern home cooking with Irish heart
£26.00, Bloomsbury

Cook the Book
Wednesday Night Curry
Pea and Cheddar Burgers
Lemon, Lemongrass and Cardamom Posset

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

One-pot meatballs with tomato sauce and orzo by Rick Stein

I tried making these meatballs with minced pork but they were too dry, so I think they are much better made with good-quality sausage meat, by which I mean at least 90 per cent pork. A lot of the brands of tomato passata with flavourings are not to my taste, but the Napolina soffritto is just tomato, garlic, onion and celery.

SERVES 4
400g premium pork sausages, skins removed and discarded
¾ tsp fennel seeds, coarsely ground
¼ tsp chilli flakes
4 tbsp olive oil
250g orzo
3 garlic cloves, chopped
60ml white wine
400ml soffritto passata (I like Napolina)
1 rosemary sprig
Salt and black pepper

To serve
Parmesan, grated
Basil leaves, torn

Mix the sausage meat, fennel seeds and chilli flakes in a bowl and shape into balls about the size of cherry tomatoes.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a shallow casserole dish or a large pan with a lid and fry the meatballs until lightly browned all over. Transfer them to a plate and set aside.

Add the remaining oil to the pan, add the orzo and fry for a couple of minutes. Add the garlic and fry for a minute, then pour in the wine and bring to the boil. Add the passata and 650ml of water, season and bring to the boil again. Turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for 2–3 minutes.

Add the meatballs and rosemary, season with salt and pepper, then cover the pan with a lid and leave to simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove the lid and cook for a final couple of minutes until the pasta is done and the sauce is thickened.

Serve with plenty of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and torn basil leaves.

Extracted from Rick Stein’s Simple Suppers (BBC Books, £28). Photography by James Murphy
Cook more from this book

Read the review
Coming soon

Buy this book
Rick Steins Simple Suppers

Michel Roux at Home by Michel Roux Jr

What’s the USP? A Michelin-starred chef eschews the involved methods and techniques of the professional kitchen and shares his favourite (but not always) simple recipes from home that he cooks for family and friends.

Who’s the author? Michel Roux Jr is restaurant royalty, son of the legendary Albert Roux, father of Emily (who runs the acclaimed London restaurant Caractère). At the time of writing, he is chef/patron of legendary two Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant Le Gavroche which is due to close in January 2024. He remains head of food and beverage at The Langham hotel in London. He is a regular on TV shows like Saturday Kitchen and has written eight previous cookbooks including The French Revolution.

Is it good bedtime reading? A five page intro and succinct recipe introductions and that’s your lot. Best keep the latest Richard Osman handy.

How much difficulty will I have getting hold of ingredients? You will need a decent butcher to mince some pork fat for you if you’re going to make the delicious sounding venison turnovers (and you could buy the venison leg or shoulder you’ll need while you are there, although you can get it from some supermarkets too), lamb merguez sausages to serve with red rice and herb pesto, pigs trotters and ears to serve with boned and rolled pork shoulder, and the various meaty elements of a game pate or a terrine made with rabbit and green ham hock.

A good cheesemonger or online supplier will probably be required for the Fleur de Maquis or Berkswell cheese for an omelette with mushrooms, parsley and sheep cheese or the Mimolette required for a chicory tart recipe. Your local greengrocer might have dandelion leaves for a salad made with potatoes, bacon and quince vinegar (good luck finding that, although you can substitute the good old cider variety) but you will have to get your wellies on and go foraging for the nettles for a chilled soup with radish tops. If you are in the UK, you can get cod cheeks from The Fish Society to roast and serve with a watercress salad, a whole sea bass to roast with vegetables or a whole sea bream to bake in a salt crust. What they won’t sell you is the smoked eel required for a canape with beetroot and horseradish cream as it’s now considered a critically endangered species.

Although that might seem like a long list, the book is mainly full of recipes with easily accessible ingredients, as demonstrated by the following list of killer recipes.

Killer recipes? Cauliflower and broccoli gratin with Comte cheese; courgette gratin; sausage, pea and potato casserole; barbecued chicken with summer salad; potato and sweetcorn waffles with bacon crumb; prawn French toast with walnut and coriander pesto; linguine with olives, artichokes, sundried tomatoes and herbs; blackberry and apple mille-feuiiles.

How annoyingly vague are the recipes? For the most part, the recipes are specific when you want them to be. For example, the lovely cauliflower and broccoli gratin recipe gives weight indications for both the main ingredients which is extremely helpful given that cauliflowers range from golf ball to beach ball in size (I’m exaggerating for effect, but not much). Elsewhere, however, things are more hazy, with a ‘bunch of asparagus and a ‘bunch’ of spring onions for a barbecued lamb steak recipe. Both of course as sold in bunches, but the number (and weight) of asparagus spears and spring onions in any given bunch can vary wildly. This is a minor niggle, as cooking from the book has been a pleasure, with clear, easy to follow methods and delicious results.

What will I love? With chapters including Breakfast and brunch, quick lunches, simple suppers for two, meals for family and friends, sweet finish, family celebrations at home and kitchen basics, it’s quick and easy to choose a recipe appropriate to your needs on any given occasion. There’s a huge variety of dishes, from simple sweetcorn soup to the more challenging game pate as well as dishes such as pork steaks with summer vegetables that would make a great mid-week meal.

Should I buy it? There’s still a fair amount of Michel Roux the two-star chef in the book with some fairly time consuming preparations and ingredients that are everyday to the French but more challenging for us Brits to get our hands on. That said, there is much to inspire keen home cooks into the kitchen and dishes that you won’t find in your average TV chef’s cookbook, so it’s a hearty ‘Oui chef’ from us.

Cuisine: French
Suitable for: confident home cooks
Cookbook Review Rating: Four stars

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Michel Roux at Home by Michel Roux Jr
£26, Seven Dials

Cook from this book
Prawn French toast with walnut & coriander pesto by Michel Roux Jr
Root Vegetable Tart Tatin by Michel Roux Jr
Souffled Crepes by Michel Roux Jr

Prawn French toast with walnut & coriander pesto by Michel Roux Jr

Croque aux crevettes

A really special brunch dish, this is my French take on Chinese prawn toast. These are hearty sandwiches, so if you’re serving them as part of a brunch buffet, just a half will be enough – unless you’re not planning to eat again until the evening! The walnut and coriander pesto makes a nice change from the usual basil version. The recipe makes more than you need for the sandwiches, but the pesto keeps well in the fridge for a week and is delicious with pasta.

Makes four sandwiches

450g peeled raw prawns
3 tbsp vegetable oil
3 free-range egg whites
3 free-range eggs
3 tbsp whole milk
Grating of nutmeg
8 slices of sourdough bread
Vegetable oil, for frying
1 tsp red chilli flakes,
to serve (optional)
Salt and black pepper

Walnut & coriander pesto
60g walnuts
Big bunch of coriander
(about 120g),
roughly chopped
1 garlic clove,
roughly chopped
1 tbsp grated Parmesan
1 green chilli roughly
chopped, seeds removed
6 tbsp olive oil
Salt

First, make the pesto. Put the walnuts, chopped coriander, garlic, Parmesan, chilli and olive oil into a blender and blitz to make a smooth mixture. Season with salt.

Put the prawns in a food processor with the oil and egg whites and season with salt and pepper. Blitz until smooth.

Beat the whole eggs with the milk in a bowl and season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg, then set aside.

Divide the prawn mixture between 4 of the slices of bread, spreading it evenly, then top with the remaining slices. Cut the sandwiches in half, then dip each half into the egg mixture.

Pour some oil into a frying pan to a depth of about 1cm and heat. Shallow-fry the sandwiches, a few halves at a time, turning them until golden on all sides – this will take about 4 minutes in total. Drain the sandwiches on kitchen paper, then keep them warm in a low oven while you cook the rest.

Cut the sandwiches in half or into bite-sized pieces. Serve warm with the pesto and sprinkle a few chilli flakes on top if you want your sandwich to have a bit of a kick.

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Souffled Crepes by Michel Roux Jr

Crêpes soufflées à l’orange et Grand Marnier

Serves four
4 oranges
250g crème pâtissière
(see p.238)
6 free-range egg whites
Pinch of sugar
50ml Grand Marnier
20g icing sugar,
for dusting

Pancakes
1 free-range egg
75g plain flour
1 tbsp caster sugar
Pinch of salt
210ml milk
1 tbsp clarified butter
This show-stopping dessert was one of my Uncle Michel’s favourites.

First make the pancake batter. Beat the egg in a bowl, then whisk in the flour a little at a time. Add the sugar and salt and mix well with a whisk. Stir in the milk to make a smooth batter, then leave it to rest in a cool place for at least an hour. To cook, brush a frying pan or crêpe pan with a little of the clarified butter and heat. Ladle in less than a quarter of the batter and cook the pancake for 1 or 2 minutes on each side, turning it with a palette knife. You should get 4 or 5 pancakes.

Segment 2 of the oranges (see page 86) and squeeze all the membranes into a pan to extract any juice. Add the juice of the other 2 oranges to the pan. Place over a low heat and reduce by half, then strain into a bowl and set aside at room temperature.

Put the crème pâtissière in a bowl, place it over a pan of simmering water and heat gently. Meanwhile, beat the egg whites with a pinch of sugar until they form soft peaks. Take the crème pâtissière off the heat, whisk in the Grand Marnier and beat briefly, then add one-third of the egg whites. Mix well,
then carefully fold in the rest of the egg whites with a spatula.

Preheat the oven to 240°C/Fan 220°C/Gas 9. Lay a pancake on a board and spoon a quarter of the crème pâtissière mix over one half. Add a few orange segments, then fold the pancake over and press down gently to seal the edges. Repeat with the remaining pancakes, crème pâtissière mix and orange segments. Put the filled pancakes on a lightly greased baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 2–5 minutes. Remove and dust them generously with icing sugar, then place under a hot grill for 4–5 minutes, so that the sugar melts and becomes partly caramelised. To serve, slide each pancake on to a plate. Pour some of the reduced orange juice around each one and add a few orange segments. Serve at once.

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Buy this book: Michel Roux at Home
£26, Seven Dials