Baking

Dessert Course by Benjamin Delwiche – Cookbook Review

Who is Benjamin Delwiche?
You are more likely to know Benjamin Delwiche by his instagram handle @benjaminthebaker. Despite having over 667,000 followers avidly following his baking advice, Delwiche is actually a maths teacher. It might seem an unusual link at first. However, the parallels soon become clear when you see his approach to recipes. Just as he might break down a complicated maths equation to help a puzzled pupil, Delwiche ‘decodes’ the science behind each stage in a recipe, helping explain how and why they work. As he says in his introduction, “Following instructions is one thing, but confidently understanding the concepts that underlie the process is quite another”.

What is Dessert Course’s USP?
Delwiche describes it as ‘a celebration of the art and science of baking: the ingredients, the recipes, and the concepts that make a baked good both technically successful and undeniably delicious.’ Dessert Course is about explaining how a handful of everyday ingredients can be transformed into an irresistible sweet treat without a kitchen full of expensive equipment or ingredients. It goes beyond just providing the recipes, aiming to help readers develop key foundational skills and understand the fundamental science behind each bake, all in a relatable and accessible manner.

What will I love?
Dessert Course is the ideal book for anyone interested in baking. Complete beginners will be able to build their confidence and knowledge, while more experienced bakers can brush up on their theory and discover more about how and why recipes work.

This is all explained in the first section, with pages dedicated to breaking down recipes, the importance of measuring and scaling, and details on various mixing methods (ever wanted to learn the ins and outs of classic creaming vs reverse creaming?). Then comes the recipes, each starting with a flow chart showing how altering a few steps (or ratios) can significantly impact the final result, ideal for anyone who enjoyed Lateral Cooking by Niki Segnit.

That such a treasure trove of information never feels weighty or dull is a testament to Delwiche’s writing and the skill of the book’s design team. The combination of diagrams, charts and side-by-side photos makes Dessert Course a surprisingly engaging read, despite the volume of information.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, there are plenty of recipes that will have you reaching for your apron. This isn’t the kind of book full of unique flavour combinations or ingredients. Instead, you will find a strong selection of classic cookies, pies, cakes and breads.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Delwiche has a talent for making scientific concepts approachable. Add a few handy diagrams, flowcharts and delectable photos into the mix and you could easily find yourself whiling away the hours absorbed in how to transform a Classic Cheesecake into a Cotton (Japanese) Cheesecake, Chewy Sugar Cookies into Snickerdoodles, or the effect of using baking powder vs bicarbonate of soda. With other writers, this could become rather weighty. However, such is the style and structure of the book, all the information feels accessible and highly readable.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Part of Delwiche’s philosophy is that you don’t need speciality ingredients to become a good baker. All the recipes feature affordable ingredients you should easily be able to find in your local supermarket. Having said that, Dessert Course is designed to give you the skills to bake with confidence and understand a recipe, so you could get creative and include more extravagant ingredients once you have mastered the basics.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There is a good mix of basic and more involved recipes. Naturally, Soda Bread is easier than Kouig-amann. However, Delwich ensures each one is clearly explained with flow charts highlighting the similarities and differences with other similar recipes (e.g. highlighting the links between Bagels and Pretzels), alongside highly informative images which clearly show the effects of different glazes, raising agents and/or how to tell if your bake is underbaked, overbaked or just right. Each recipe also includes a prep time, active time and cooking time at the top. Ideal for helping you plan how to fit a baking session into your day.

Stand-out recipes?
Don’t miss the Chewy Browned Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies or Fudgy Brownies (there are also options for ‘Chewy’ and ‘Cakey’ versions, if you prefer). The Cinnamon Coffee Cake was also a hit.

How often will I cook from this book?
As often as you want to bak. There are recipes for every occasion with all sorts of classic cakes, biscuits and breads (not forgetting the delectable desserts and pastries).vWhether you want to make up a batch of simple Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies, or master the art of buttery Brioche.

Any negatives?
It is very geared towards an American audience. Not a problem if you enjoy Snickerdoodles and Pumpkin Pie, but don’t expect to find the secret to the perfect Sticky Toffee Pud.

Should I buy the book?
If you enjoy cookbooks that delve deeper into the whys and hows of recipes, Dessert Course is the book for you. In some ways it is similar to SIFT (Nicola Lamb), although the recipes focus more on popular American crowd pleasing classics (compared to Lamb’s array of more innovative, elevated ideas).

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Matt Adlard, Nicola Lamb and Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: 4 stars
Buy this book: Dessert Course: Lessons in the Whys and Hows of Baking
£27.00, DK.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

The Potato Book by Poppy O’Toole – Cookbook Review

Social media sensation Poppy O’Toole, A.K.A ‘The Potato Queen’ is back with her fourth cookbook. Having previously published best-selling books focusing on simplified cookery and air fryers, O’Toole has returned to the ingredient that made her famous: the humble spud.

What is the USP?
Your ultimate guide to potatoes with a 21st-century twist. Among the book’s 101 recipes, you will find all the classics, plus options to add an extra ‘something’ (like the ultra-indulgent ‘Three Cheese Mash’ loaded with a glorious combination of gooey mozzarella, Cheddar and Red Leicester, or umami-rich ‘Marmite Roast Potatoes’). There are also plenty of potato ideas from around the world, like ‘Latkes’ and ‘Batata Harra’ (a spicy Lebanese cubed potato dish), as well as more modern options like ‘French Onion Fondants’ and ‘Smashed Potato Nachos’. O’Toole’s relaxed, approachable manner make this a fun and celebratory book. Think of it as the potato bible for those who enjoy cooking, but don’t take themselves too seriously.

What will I love?
The photography is modern, eye-catching and enticing. You can almost taste the crispiness of the latkes just by looking at the photo, while the shot of the aligot will send you hurrying to your fridge to see if you have the ingredients.

The variety of O’Toole’s ideas is impressive. Not only does she cover all the classics, she also branches out with creative twists to bring something different. Think ‘Christmas Mash with Crispy Sprouts and Bacon’, ‘Hash Brown Bhajis’ and ‘Caramelised Onion and Cream Cheese Hasselbacks’.

Is it good bedtime reading?
From a literary perspective, no. Each recipe has a very readable and relatable introduction, brimming with O’Toole’s chatty warmth and enthusiasm. However, this isn’t one of those books filled with lengthy essays or musings on potatoes.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Obviously, potatoes are the main ingredient, but the recipes are refreshingly free from expensive or difficult-to-source ingredients. You should be able to find everything you need in your local supermarket.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There is a range of recipes from incredibly fuss-free and straightforward (‘Classic Skin-on Wedges’) to the more time-consuming (‘Pommes Dauphine’). Not forgetting O’Toole’s infamous ‘15-hour Potatoes’ (of which you will find several versions in this book). However, due to O’Toole’s approachable, accessible writing style, even the notionally more complex dishes are achievable for less confident cooks.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Masala Chips’ are dangerously addictive, while the ‘Cheesy Leeky Mashed Potato’ is simply delicious (do try it next time you are making regular mash). The ‘Croquettes’ are another winner; packed full of flavour thanks to the combination of smoky chorizo and salty, tangy goats cheese. Do heed O’Toole’s advice and let them cool slightly before digging in though. Don’t miss the ‘Chimichurri Smashed Potatoes’ which, as O’Toole recommends, make an excellent side for steak.

How often will I cook from this book?
That depends on how often you want to eat potatoes. Given that they are an affordable, popular ingredient and O’Toole has included a wide variety of ideas for every palate and occasion, the answer is ‘regularly’. Whether you want a show-stopping potato side for a special occasion (like the ‘Ultimate Chicken and Truffle Pomme Purée’), crunchy snack (the spiced ‘Extra Crispy Smashed Spuds’ are a must-try) or soul-soothing comforting spud (the rich and indulgent ‘Tartiflette’ ticks every box), the chances are, The Potato Book will have what you need.

Any negatives?
It would be helpful to outline the prep time and cook time for each recipe at the top. It also would be beneficial to specify if dishes are vegetarian and/or vegan or highlight when ingredients need to be adjusted (for example, certain cheeses like Taleggio and, sometimes, Comté, which contain animal rennet).

Should I buy the book?
Yes. The Potato Book is a must-have for anyone who enjoys potatoes and, dare I say it, even those who are yet to understand their versatility. It’s a fun, modern and exciting book that will change how you perceive the humble spud.

Cuisine: International
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities. Especially anyone who is remotely interested in potatoes and wants to learn new ways to enjoy them.
Great for fans of: MOB
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Poppy Cooks: The Potato Book: 101 recipes from the Potato Queen
£22.00, Bloomsbury

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Small Batch Cookies by Ed Kimber – Cookbook Review

Who is Edd Kimber?
A.K.A ‘The Boy Who Bakes’, Edd Kimber is an award-winning baker, food writer and Great British Bake Off (GBBO) winner. He has written several best-selling, critically acclaimed, cookbooks including One Tin Bakes (2020), One Tin Bakes Easy (2021) and Small Batch Bakes (2022). Since achieving culinary fame after GBBO, he has become a familiar fixture on television screens at home and abroad, appearing on Good Morning America, Sunday Brunch and Saturday Kitchen. He can often be found sharing his passion for baking at food festivals, cookery schools and in magazines, including olive. He also regularly shares recipes with his followers via his social media @theboywhobakes and his popular Substack newsletter. Small Batch Cookies is his 7th cookbook.

What is Small Batch Cookies’ USP?
We all have moments when we just crave a warm cookie straight from the oven. Moments when you don’t want to whip up a big batch to feed the five thousand and/or hunt out a long list of expensive ingredients. You just want to enjoy a comforting cookie (or two). These were Kimber’s inspiration for Small Batch Cookies. After all, the popularity of the infamous ‘Emergency Cookie’ in his earlier book Small Batch Bakes had proved there was a clear demand for it.

What will I love?
The concept is a clever one. It’s liberating to be able to make such an impressive variety of delicious-sounding cookie recipes (each accompanied by a beautiful photograph) without worrying about leftovers or filling the freezer. Of course, the recipes can always be scaled up so you could make larger batches if you so wish.

Kimber also caters for various diets. Think delicate gluten-free ‘Swedish Lace Cookies’ and rich ‘Chewy Flourless Double Chocolate Cookies’, vegan ‘Tahini Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies’ and ‘Speculoos-Stuffed Dark Chocolate Cookies’, and egg-free ‘Vanilla Kipferl’ and ‘Frosted Banana Bread Cookies’.

Is it good bedtime reading?
In a literary sense, not really. There is an ‘Introduction’ followed by Kimber’s ‘Perfect Cookie Manifesto’, a ‘Boring But Important Bit’ and advice on ‘Equipment’. Plus, each recipe has its own introduction. As long as you aren’t expecting long essays on the origins of the cookie, this is a joyful book to snuggle up with and contemplate your next culinary creations. I would encourage you to take a notebook to jot down a ‘to make’ list.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
There is a helpful list of recommended suppliers at the back of the book, but you should be able to find everything you need in your local supermarket for the vast majority of the recipes. The only exception would be the ‘Panela Brown Butter Shortbread’ which would need a trip to a local health shop or an online order to get your hands on panela. In fairness, Kimber does say you can use regular caster sugar, although it won’t have quite the same flavour. It is also refreshing to see vegan recipes which use regular ingredients and pretty much like-for-like substitutes (Kimber explains at the start that flax or psyllium husk egg replacers are ‘superfluous’ in small-batch baking and can easily be replaced with a splash more plant-based milk).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Kimber has ensured the recipes are as accessible as possible with helpful introductions, clear instructions (as well as explanations like ‘resting like this helps to hydrate the flour, which in turn prevents the cookies from spreading too much, leaving us with beautifully chunky cookies’), handy ‘notes’, where necessary, and storage instructions. Measurements are given for pretty much every ingredient (think 2 tsp lemon juice instead of ‘juice of 1 lemon’) so there is precious little room for error.

Stand-out recipes?
Every recipe I have tried so far has been a success. The ‘Triple Chocolate Skillet Cookie for Two’ makes for a delicious quick and easy pud served warm with a scoop of just-melting vanilla ice cream. The ‘Black Forest Brownie Crinkles’ are a must-try for brownie fans. In fact, you could skip the black forest filling and enjoy the fudgy cookies on their own.

If you ever fancied making your own version of hobnobs, the ‘Knobbly Oat Cookies’ are incredibly simple, easy to adapt for vegans and even more delicious with a layer of chocolate. Speaking of oaty cookies, don’t miss the ‘Anzac Cookies’. They have a wonderfully chewy texture and (notionally) last a long time so are ideal to make ahead. Anyone who has been lucky enough to try Sarah Nelson’s famous Grasmere Gingerbread will be delighted to see Kimber’s own interpretation. The original is a closely guarded secret, but this recipe comes very close.

How often will I cook from this book?
How often do you fancy cookies? Small Batch Cookies could easily become your go-to cookie book with recipes divided into 6 delectably titled chapters — Soft & Sumptuous; Crisp & Crunchy; Ooey Gooey; Sandwich Cookies; Chocolate Heaven; and Chewy — guaranteeing a cookie for every thinkable craving. Although the whole premise is each recipe only makes a few (servings range between 2 and 6), they can all easily be scaled up to make a full batch. You’ll probably cook more recipes from this book than a regular baking book since the smaller batches mean you can try a selection of cookies without worrying about wasting leftovers or filling your freezer to the brim.

Any negatives?
While there is something for almost every diet, the labelling of the recipes is a bit peculiar and inconsistent (for example, the Triple Ginger Molasses Cookies are vegan but there is no label to indicate they are – unlike other recipes). Plus many could easily be adapted for vegans, even though it is only mentioned in the odd recipe (think simple swaps like regular butter for plant-based butter or honey for maple syrup). One can’t help but feel Kimber missed a bit of a trick there.

It would also have been helpful to have the estimated time at the top of each recipe. This is particularly important if a recipe requires chilling.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Anyone who remotely enjoys cookies should own a copy of Small Batch Cookies.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Jane Dunn and Nicola Lamb
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Small Batch Cookies: Deliciously easy bakes for one to six people
£22.00, Kyle Books

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Lemon Drizzle Cake recipe by Sarah Johnson

It’s worth having a recipe for a classic lemon drizzle in your baking repertoire. I adore this particular version because it’s reliable, full of lemon flavour, and the addition of buttermilk provides a tender crumb.

SERVES 8–10

Ingredients:
For the cake:
200g (7oz) flour
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
zest of 1 lemon
225g (8oz) caster sugar
135g (4¾oz) butter, room temperature
140g (5oz) eggs (2–3 eggs)
¼ teaspoon salt
175ml (6oz) buttermilk

For the lemon soak:
2 tablespoons lemon juice, strained
1 tablespoon caster sugar

For the lemon icing:
150g (5½oz) icing sugar, sifted
1–1½ tablespoons lemon juice, strained

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3. Grease a loaf tin with butter and lightly dust it with flour. Tap out any excess flour and line the bottom with baking parchment. Sift the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl. Set aside. Zest the lemon directly over the measured sugar then rub it together using the tips of your fingers.

In a separate mixing bowl, beat the butter until smooth and satiny. Add the lemony sugar and continue to cream until the mixture becomes light in colour and fluffy in appearance.

Beat the eggs together and add to the butter and sugar, a third at a time, mixing until fully incorporated before adding the next third. Continue to cream the mixture, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. Once all the eggs have been added, the texture will be fluffy, light and increased in volume (it should resemble whipped cream cheese and the graininess should disappear). If you are using a stand mixture, remove the bowl now and proceed to mix by hand.

Gently fold in one-third of the dry ingredients, followed by half of the buttermilk. Repeat this process, alternating between the dry and wet ingredients. After each addition, scrape the sides of the bowl and continue mixing until the batter is smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf tin, smoothing out the top, and bake for 25–30 minutes. Rotate the cake and bake for another 15–20 minutes until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.

While the cake is baking, make the lemon soak by combining the lemon juice and sugar together until the sugar dissolves. When the cake is done, transfer it to a wire rack (still in the tin) and use a skewer or toothpick to poke holes in the surface. Spoon the lemon soak over the top and allow it to cool in the tin.

When you’re ready to ice the cake, remove it from the tin by running a palette knife or butter knife along the edges. Turn out the cake and remove the parchment from the bottom. Place it back onto the rack while you prepare the icing. Put the sifted icing sugar into a bowl and add the smaller amount of lemon juice. Mix with a small spoon or spatula until all the icing sugar is dissolved. If the icing seems thick, you can thin it out with a bit more juice. Spoon the icing over the cake, covering the top completely and allowing any excess icing to drizzle down the sides. Leave the icing to set before serving.

Book credit: Fruitful by Sarah Johnson. Published by Kyle Books. Photography: Patricia Niven.

Cook more from this book
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
North African Lamb with Plums

Read the review:click here
Buy this book:
Fruitful by Sarah Johnson
£30, Kyle Books

Fruit scones recipe by Ranveet Gill

One of my earliest pastry jobs involved making hundreds of scones each morning for afternoon tea service. The key was never to overmix the dough and to get your hands involved to bring it together, then to rest it before cutting. A scone is best served on the day it is baked with copious amounts of clotted cream and jam on the side.

MAKES 6 SCONES

Equipment
flat baking tray
15g/1 tbsp raisins
just-boiled water, to cover
250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
12g/21/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp fine salt
30g caster sugar
75g cold unsalted butter, cubed
25g (prepped weight) eating apple
(approx. 1/4 small apple), cored and grated
125ml full-fat milk
1 egg, beaten, for the egg wash

Put the raisins in a small, heatproof bowl, cover with just-boiled water and leave to soak for 20 minutes, then drain.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add the butter and use your fingertips to breadcrumb it together. Mix through the apple and strained raisins.

Keeping one hand out of the bowl, make a well in the centre and add the milk. Use your hand (that’s in the bowl) to bring it together initially to a loose dough, but do not overwork it. Tip this onto your workbench and then use both hands to gently bring it together to form a dough. Gently shape into a disc, then wrap tightly in baking paper or clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/gas mark 6. Line the baking tray with baking paper.

Lightly dust your workbench and a 6.5cm (23/4in) round biscuit cutter with flour. Unwrap the chilled dough and gently roll it into a round, about 3cm (11/4in) thick. Position the cutter, then press down in one straight motion (don’t twist the cutter) with your hand to cut out each scone, then gather the trimmings and cut out another scone.

Place the rounds on the lined baking tray, then brush the top of each one with egg wash.

Bake for 18–20 minutes or until risen and lightly golden.

Remove from the oven, transfer the scones to a wire rack and allow to cool fully before serving. Serve split and spread with butter and jam, or clotted cream and jam, or all three!

These scones are best eaten fresh on the day they are made.

Cook more from this book
Fig rolls

Read the review

Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Fig Rolls Recipe by Ranveet Gill

I am a snacker and am so at any opportunity, be that flight, road trip, wedding, whatever. I’ll always make time to go to the shops and buy copious amounts of snacks to share. When I was at Uni, I got persuaded to go to a camping festival, so I left my friend in charge of the compulsory snack pilgrimage, only to find out all he bought were packets of fig rolls. Bizarre. He then got really high and shoved two whole packets of fig rolls into his mouth one after the other quickly. We were in stitches. I think he woke up the next day and realized his error. Whenever I make or eat fig rolls, I think of him.

MAKES ABOUT 20

Equipment
large flat baking tray

For the dough
50g unsalted butter, at room temperature
50g caster sugar
1 egg
1 capful (approx. 5ml/1 tsp) of almond extract (optional)
150g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
30g ground almonds
1/4 tsp baking powder
pinch of Maldon or flaky salt

For the fig filling
300ml water
30g soft light brown sugar
200g dried figs, stems removed and chopped
1 cinnamon stick
demerara sugar, for sprinkling

Make the dough. In a large bowl, beat the butter and caster sugar together until pale and fluffy. Mix in the egg, scraping down the sides of the bowl, along with the almond extract, if using.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt together. Add this to the butter mixture and mix until a dough forms. Knead for a minute or two until it’s homogeneous.

Pat the dough into a disc, wrap in clingfilm or baking paper and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the fig filling. In a medium saucepan, stir together the water, brown sugar, figs and cinnamon stick. Bring this to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, then simmer until the water has reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Tip the fig mixture into a heatproof bowl and leave until it is cool to touch, then refrigerate until cold, approx. 20 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick before using. Blitz to form a paste using a food processor.

Line a kitchen tray and the baking tray with baking paper and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle 38 x 18cm (15 x 7in). Cut the strip in half lengthways. Place one strip on a large sheet of baking paper – this is going to help you roll it into shape.

Spoon the fig filling into a piping bag fitted with a large plain nozzle, then pipe half of the fig filling along the length, leaving about a 2cm (3/4in) border on one side which will help you to close it. Use a pastry brush to brush water along this border. Use the baking paper to help lift the other side of the pastry over the filling and onto the dampened edge, as you would do when making sausage rolls. Use a fork to press down and seal the edges together. Place this on the lined kitchen tray and transfer to the fridge, then repeat with the second strip of pastry and the rest of the fig filling. Refrigerate for 20 minutes while the oven preheats.

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/gas mark 4.

Use a sharp knife to cut across each long roll and portion the fig rolls – cutting each one to about 3–4cm (11/4–11/2in) in size works nicely. Transfer the fig rolls to the lined baking tray, then brush them with a little water before sprinkling over a little demerara sugar.

Bake for 15–18 minutes or until golden.

Remove from the oven, cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving.

Leftovers will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Cook more from this book
Fruit scones

Read the review

Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Baking for Pleasure by Ravneet Gill – Cookbook Review

Who is Ravneet Gill?
Ravneet Gill is a bestselling author, pastry chef and judge on Channel 4’s Junior Bake Off. She started her culinary career studying at Le Cordon Bleu before taking over the pastry sections at St John, Llewelyn’s and Wild by Tart. In 2018, she set up the trailblazing industry networking platform Countertalk to support hospitality businesses and promote healthy work environments. Now a freelance chef, she writes regularly for the Telegraph and Guardian Feast and often appears on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen. Baking for Pleasure is her third book.

What is Baking for Pleasure’s USP?
Gill’s first book, The Pastry Chef’s Guide, was designed to break down the fundamentals of pastry and provide reliable base recipes so that budding pastry chefs could eventually create their own desserts in a professional kitchen. Her second, Sugar, I Love You, went a step further with elaborate plated puds, intricate entremets and decadent cheesecakes bursting with colour, flavour and ‘wow’ factor. Baking for Pleasure adopts a different approach; imploring you to embrace the enjoyment found in creating delicious dishes for yourself and loved ones. Yes, there are plenty of impressive dinner-party desserts, but there are also crowd-pleasing classics, quick batch-bakes and wholesome weekend treats designed to show how home-baking can be simple, satisfying and full of joy.

What will I love?
Where to begin? Gill’s passion and pleasure for her craft is infectious, radiating through the recipes, personal introductions and encouraging advice. Prepare for page after page of beautifully photographed bakes including favourites like ‘Carrot Cake’, ‘Tiramisu’ and ‘Chocolate and Cream Profiteroles’, alongside more modern interpretations like ‘Millionaire’s Shortbread with Pistachio and Cardamom’ and ‘Mango Crème Brûlée’. It is great to see a wonderful selection of breads and savoury bakes too, including a show-stopping ‘Caramelised Onion Tatin’, ‘Jalapeño Popper Gougères’ and ‘Japanese Milk Loaf’.

Gill successfully manages to strike the balance between explaining each step in detail, without coming across as waffly or patronising (I guarantee you will finish this book with a greater understanding of baking). What’s more, while you could be forgiven for thinking recipes like these would require a lengthy list of culinary utensils, Gill has been mindful of domestic kitchens and washing up (always a bonus!) so you won’t find yourself hunting down obscure equipment or be left with a sink full of dirty dishes.

Is it good bedtime reading?
The eye-catching colours and striking photography make this a great book to flick through and is sure to bring about sweet dreams. However, aside from the introduction and Gill’s thoughts on ‘Finding Joy in the Kitchen’, there isn’t a lot to read… at least not in the sense of the essays in Sugar, I Love You. The recipes do all have introductions and a fair few include tips.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Gill wanted this to be a book for the home-cook so you won’t have much trouble finding the ingredients.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Yes. The equipment is listed next to the servings and the ingredients are separated into sections (e.g. for the pastry, for the filling, to finish). There is a good mix of recipes depending on whether you want to whip up a simple ‘Blueberry Muffin Cake’ or spend a little longer making the deliciously summery ‘Strawberry and Clotted Cream Paris-Brest’.

The only minor criticism is it would be helpful to have the cooking time by the ingredients so you can easily see how long a recipe will take, rather than skimming the recipe and calculating it in your head.

Stand-out recipes?
This book is so full of mouthwatering recipes that it is tricky to narrow it down to just a few… The ‘Double Cream and Frangipane Bakewell’ is the best I have ever tasted, the ‘Chocolate and Hazelnut Cookies’ are dangerously addictive and the ‘Coffee Choux’ are simply divine. The ‘Chocolate and Hazelnut Caramel Tart’ is great fun to make, delicious to eat, and guaranteed to impress anyone you care to share it with.

How often will I cook from this book?
This could easily become your most-used book when in search of a sweet treat (not forgetting the savoury chapter, of course). Every occasion is covered with chapters including: ‘Bakes for Friends’, ‘Crowd Pleasers’, ‘Dinner Parties’, ‘Weekend Bakes’ and ‘Savoury Bakes’. Whether you want a classic ‘Chocolate Mousse’ or something more unusual like the ‘Brown Butter and Honey Baked Tart’, this book has you covered. Some, like the ‘Pantry Raid Flapjacks’, need less than 15 minutes prep and a handful of store-cupboard ingredients, whilst others, like the ‘Light-As-Air Chocolate, Cherry and Pistachio Roulade’, require a bit more effort.

Any negatives?
Nothing major… If you want to be really picky, it would have been nice to see a few more savoury recipes given they are mentioned in the description. However, the sweet options are so tempting you shouldn’t feel hard done by.

Should I buy the book?
A resounding ‘yes’. This is a brilliant book brimming with joy, enthusiasm and delicious recipes that genuinely work. A must-by for any baker.

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking fans of all abilities.
Great for fans of: Nicola Lamb and Liberty Mendez
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: Baking for Pleasure: The new sweet and savoury cookbook with recipes
£26.00, Pavilion Books

Cook the Book
Fruit Scones
Fig Rolls

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Recipe: Flakey cheese and pickle scones by Nicola Lamb

The humble cheese scone is given the flaky treatment. The addition of rye flour
and pickle chunks in the layers gives these scones a deli sandwich energy that
would be welcome at any picnic. Working fast and having a light touch here is key
for the flakiest scones possible

Equipment
6.5cm cutter

Ingredients
210g plain flour
30g dark rye flour
10g baking powder (about 2½ tsp)
4g flaky sea salt (about 1⅛ tsp)
2g black pepper (about 1 tsp)
100g mature Cheddar cheese, grated
110g butter, very cold
75g pickled gherkins, drained and chopped
120g buttermilk (see Note)
Egg wash (see page 343 of Sift)

Get everything cold. And I mean cold. If you have time, put your dry ingredients in
the freezer for 20 minutes before mixing. Your butter must be fridge-cold and firm
to the touch.
Add all the dry ingredients into a bowl, plus half the grated Cheddar cheese.
Cut the butter into 2cm cubes. Using the paddle attachment or your fingertips, work the cold butter into the dry ingredients, along with the chopped gherkins for about 30 seconds. Only go so far that the butter is in irregular-sized pieces. You need some larger bits of butter to get the layers later.
Now, add the buttermilk in a steady stream and mix until it is looking just hydrated – there can still be dry bits.
Tip onto a clean surface and push together, scraping all the dry bits into the middle.
Roll to approximately 40cm long, sprinkle over half of the leftover cheese and perform a single fold – that’s when you bring the top down two-thirds and then the bottom over the middle third, like a business letter!
Turn 90 degrees and roll to 40cm long, then sprinkle over the rest of the cheese and perform another single fold. Use a knife or a bench scraper to cut the folded edge –this will give you the best layers possible.
Pat the dough into a rectangle around 2.5–3cm high. Trim the edges (you can bake these as snack scraps!) and pat down slightly to get the dough back into proportion. Cut into six large squares. Place on a baking tray lined with baking paper and put into the freezer for 15 minutes or the fridge for 45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan.
Gently brush the tops of the scones with egg wash, if desired. Bake for 12–15 minutes (watch the colour), then turn the oven down to 190°C/170°C fan and continue cooking for 5–10 minutes until the scones are golden and well baked. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool, then serve warm.

Note: If you don’t have buttermilk, mix 115g whole milk with 5g white wine vinegar and then leave in the fridge to curdle for about 5 minutes. It will appear thickened but a bit split.

Cook more from this book
Miso Walnut Cookies
Secret Chooclate Cake

Click the link to buy this book:
SIFT: The Elements of Great Baking
£30.00, Ebury Press

Click here to read the review

Sift by Nicola Lamb

Credit: Lin Pei Pei

reviewed by Sophie Knox Richmond

Who is Nicola Lamb? Nicola Lamb is a recipe developer and pastry chef famed for hosting sell-out pastry parties with her pop-bakery, Lark!, and collaborating with the likes of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Soft & Swirly and Toklas Bakery. She honed her skills at some of London and New York’s top bakeries including Happy Endings, Dominique Ansel and Little Bread Pedlar, and has seen her work featured in publications including The Guardian, Vogue and ES Magazine. She is also the author of Kitchen Projects (her weekly substack newsletter with over 50,000 dedicated subscribers) where she delves deep into the world of desserts, baking and pastries, sharing behind-the-scenes glimpses of the recipe development process and explaining the ins and outs of what, how and why a recipe works. From the lowdown on the ultimate chocolate chip cookies to how to craft beautifully buttery brioche (not forgetting more adventurous ideas like wild garlic bagels, pistachio gateau basque and caramelised white chocolate, malt and hazelnut spread), it is little wonder the Observer declared it an ‘incredible resource’. SIFT is her debut cookbook.

What is SIFT’s USP? Described as the ‘essential new baking bible’ SIFT promises to take the ‘fear out of failure’ with its collection of over 100 bakes. The first half of the book is focused on theory, featuring key elements and techniques, accompanied by illustrations and diagrams, designed to explore the hows and whys of baking. The second half is dedicated to the recipes, organised by how long you have available to bake, whether that be an afternoon (‘Bread and Butter Pudding with Caramel Mandarins’), a day (‘Rhubarb and Custard Crumb Cake) or weekend (‘Mocha Passionfruit Opera Cake’). Felicity Cloake summed it up perfectly as: ‘Everything you ever wanted to know about baking but were too afraid to ask.’

What will I love? This is the ultimate book for anyone remotely interested in baking no matter your skill level. It lays the foundations for novices to build on and professionals will find inspiring new ideas to develop their own recipes as well as reference points for substitutions.

The first half offers a fascinating look at the main ingredients at the heart of baking (e.g. flour, sugar, eggs and fat) before exploring the techniques that bring them to life (prepare to learn all about texture, colour and rising). The numerous diagrams and ‘technical overview’ help ensure the information remains clear and accessible. Each recipe highlights the techniques used so you can refer back to the theory chapters, identify links between different recipes, and work your way up to more complex ones as you grow in confidence.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, Lamb’s meticulous testing and flair for flavour means the recipes alone are enough to get you grabbing your apron. Expect original sweet and savoury cakes, tarts, biscuits, pies, breads and desserts. Classics like Victoria Sandwich Cake are transformed into ‘Roasted Strawberry Victoria Sponge’, and ‘Baked Lemon Custard Brûlée’ gives Crème Brûlée a zesty modern twist.

Is it good bedtime reading? Lamb’s highly readable writing, coupled with the handy diagrams is likely to leave you staying up into the early hours learning about the ins and outs of ‘starch gelatinisation in action’ and ‘coagulation of eggs’ (I promise you, it isn’t as weighty as it sounds). You can dip in and out at your leisure, focusing on the elements you wish to learn more about at any given time. All the recipes include a short introduction too.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients? Some fruit purées and pistachio paste might need to be bought online unless you want to make your own (a recipe is included for the latter). Dried hibiscus flowers may also need hunting down but plenty of other sorbet flavours are given instead.

How easy are the recipes to follow? The book is designed for all abilities. Not all the recipes are easy but Lamb has gone to great lengths to ensure they are achievable and the processes are as clear as possible. Each recipe contains a time plan and specifies the equipment and techniques used. There are helpful notes on what to look for at each stage as well as useful tips, shortcuts and instructions on how to prep in advance and/or reheat. It couldn’t be more user-friendly if it tried.

Stand-out recipes? ‘Brown Butter Banana Cookies’ are quick, easy and incredibly moreish, ‘Ricotta, Marmalade and Hazelnut Chocolate-chip Cake’ is a must-make for chocolate-orange fans, and ‘Lemon Basque Cheesecake with Sticky Lemons’ is a beautifully balanced pud for any occasion. Banoffee-lovers shouldn’t miss the ‘Banana Pudding Pie’, and the ‘Tiramichoux’ are utterly inspired and worth the effort. On the savoury side, ‘Olive Oil Brie-oche with Roasted Grapes, Honey and Thyme’ sounds particularly delicious.

How often will I cook from this book? There is something for every mood, occasion and season so you could easily find yourself baking from this all year round, whether you are making a birthday cake for a loved one, a teatime treat to curb mid-afternoon cravings, or a show-stopping dessert for a special occasion. There’s a plethora of savoury delights ideal for lunches and suppers too.

Any negatives? None. SIFT is designed to be the ultimate baking and pastry bible and Lamb has well and truly nailed the brief.

Should I buy the book? A resounding yes. Whether you want to delve deep into the science of the Maillard reaction, or simply want to up your baking game, SIFT is an exceptional book and a must-have addition to your cookbook collection.

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: SIFT: The Elements of Great Baking
£30.00, Ebury Press

Cook from this book
Secret Chocolate Cake
Miso Walnut Cookies
Cheese and Pickle Scones

Part-Time Baker: Simple Bakes Without the Stress – Book Review

Who is Florence Stanton?
Florence Stanton is a self-taught food blogger and online content creator, with a background in PR and Marketing, from South London. During the COVID-19 lockdown, she decided to start an online baking social media account @tasting.thyme. She began to share simple sweet (and the occasional savoury) bakes designed to prove that you don’t need a huge kitchen, fancy training or equipment to create truly wonderful food. She now has over 125,000 followers drooling over everything from ‘Tiramisu Brownies with a Whipped Mascarpone Frosting’ to ‘Chocolate Honeycomb Cookies’. She lives in Houston, Texas and Part-Time Baker is her debut cookbook.

What is Part-Time Baker’s USP?
Stanton has earned a reputation for keeping things simple in the kitchen on her social media account and her cookbook follows suit. Each recipe clearly states the timings involved – with many on the table in under 30 minutes, or requiring just 15 minutes hands-on time before letting the oven or the fridge do the work. Each chapter focuses on a different time of day, ensuring you can find the perfect fuss-free bake to suit any eventuality.

What will I love?
Stanton excels at offering a variety of enticing bakes that take inspiration from classic favourites, but with a little added twist. Think tangy ‘Lemon & Blueberry Bakewell Tart’ with lemon curd instead of cherry jam and ‘Black Forest Crumble’ (the addition of dark chocolate gives the comfort-food-classic an extra level of indulgence).

There is a good balance of sweet and savoury options, whether that be on-the-go breakfasts, lazy weekend brunches, homemade lunches, afternoon tea bakes, show-stopping desserts or late night treats, with options for every level of confidence, skill and timeframe. Need a quick pud for a dinner party? The ‘Mini Biscoff Cheesecake Jars’ take less than 20 minutes to pull together. Want a showstopper with added ‘wow factor’? The ‘Chocolate and Hazelnut Tart with Hazelnut Praline’ is your answer. Looking for a refreshing summer dessert? The ‘Peach Melba Eton Mess’ will go down a treat. Hoping for comfort on a chilly winter evening? Good luck choosing between the ‘Sticky Figgy Toffee Pudding’ and the ‘Leftover Almond Croissant Bread & Butter Pudding’.

Care has been taken to ensure the recipes are as accessible and clear as possible – outlining exactly the ‘hands-on’, ‘chilling’, ‘baking’ and ‘total’ time involved. There are also options for shortcuts (for example using shop-bought all-butter pastry instead of making your own rough puff), and occasional tips to encourage you to ring the changes – for example, filling the ‘Red Pesto & Mozzarella Bread Scrolls’ with red onion chutney and grated cheddar, olive tapenade or even cranberry sauce and brie for a festive twist.

Is it good bedtime reading?
If you want to go to sleep dreaming of delicious bakes to make the next day, yes. If you are looking for long, captivating prose discussing the secrets to ‘The Ultimate Chocolate Brownie’ or why sweet white chocolate, juicy raspberries and crunchy pistachios makes for an irresistible combination in the ‘White Chocolate & Pistachio Braid’, you might be a little disappointed. However, each recipe does come with a mini introduction. There is also a typical introduction at the beginning of the book where Stanton introduces herself and her baking philosophy.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Accessibility lies at the heart of this book, so you should be able to find all the ingredients in your local supermarket (perhaps with the exception of rose petals in the ‘Rose Shortbread Cookies’). The vast majority of recipes include regular, affordable ingredients which are likely to already feature on your shopping list (even the ‘Vegan No Bake Chocolate & Pistachio Bars’ uses no unusual ingredients aside from vegan butter).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Part Time Baker does away with complex instructions and manages to keep baking stress-free.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Cheat’s Almond Croissants’ are unbelievably simple and taste sublime, and the ‘Goat’s Cheese, Fig & Walnut Tart’ is delicious for lunch served with a simple salad. The ‘Leek & Potato Turnovers’ celebrates a winning flavour combination – but do try Stanton’s bombay-potato or leftover curry filled option for a samosa-inspired snack. The ‘Savoury Baked Cheesy French Toast’ is also a must-try for a weekend brunch or lunch with friends.

How often will I cook from this book?
With a good variety of sweet and savoury ideas, you could easily find yourself whipping up a few recipes from here each week without breaking the bank, having endless washing up or feeling exhausted with the effort.

Any negatives?
It’s a shame that not all the recipes include tips, tricks and alternative ideas which would have been helpful for those who want to take their bakes a bit further.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a great cookbook to have on the shelf whether you are the target market of baking enthusiasts who are short on time, or a keen baker looking to try some new recipes.

Cuisine: Stress-free baking
Suitable for: Baking fans who don’t have hours to spare.
Great for fans of: Jane Dunn (Jane’s Patisserie) and Eloise Head (Fitwaffle)
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Part-Time Baker: Simple bakes without the stress (affiliate link)
£18.99, Carnival Books

Cook from this book
Coming soon

This review by Sophie Knox Richmond was originally published on Andy Lynes’s Smashed Substack newsletter. Subscribe here to ensure you see all the latest cookbook reviews first.