dessert

Dessert Course by Benjamin Delwiche – Cookbook Review

Who is Benjamin Delwiche?
You are more likely to know Benjamin Delwiche by his instagram handle @benjaminthebaker. Despite having over 667,000 followers avidly following his baking advice, Delwiche is actually a maths teacher. It might seem an unusual link at first. However, the parallels soon become clear when you see his approach to recipes. Just as he might break down a complicated maths equation to help a puzzled pupil, Delwiche ‘decodes’ the science behind each stage in a recipe, helping explain how and why they work. As he says in his introduction, “Following instructions is one thing, but confidently understanding the concepts that underlie the process is quite another”.

What is Dessert Course’s USP?
Delwiche describes it as ‘a celebration of the art and science of baking: the ingredients, the recipes, and the concepts that make a baked good both technically successful and undeniably delicious.’ Dessert Course is about explaining how a handful of everyday ingredients can be transformed into an irresistible sweet treat without a kitchen full of expensive equipment or ingredients. It goes beyond just providing the recipes, aiming to help readers develop key foundational skills and understand the fundamental science behind each bake, all in a relatable and accessible manner.

What will I love?
Dessert Course is the ideal book for anyone interested in baking. Complete beginners will be able to build their confidence and knowledge, while more experienced bakers can brush up on their theory and discover more about how and why recipes work.

This is all explained in the first section, with pages dedicated to breaking down recipes, the importance of measuring and scaling, and details on various mixing methods (ever wanted to learn the ins and outs of classic creaming vs reverse creaming?). Then comes the recipes, each starting with a flow chart showing how altering a few steps (or ratios) can significantly impact the final result, ideal for anyone who enjoyed Lateral Cooking by Niki Segnit.

That such a treasure trove of information never feels weighty or dull is a testament to Delwiche’s writing and the skill of the book’s design team. The combination of diagrams, charts and side-by-side photos makes Dessert Course a surprisingly engaging read, despite the volume of information.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, there are plenty of recipes that will have you reaching for your apron. This isn’t the kind of book full of unique flavour combinations or ingredients. Instead, you will find a strong selection of classic cookies, pies, cakes and breads.

Is it good bedtime reading?
Delwiche has a talent for making scientific concepts approachable. Add a few handy diagrams, flowcharts and delectable photos into the mix and you could easily find yourself whiling away the hours absorbed in how to transform a Classic Cheesecake into a Cotton (Japanese) Cheesecake, Chewy Sugar Cookies into Snickerdoodles, or the effect of using baking powder vs bicarbonate of soda. With other writers, this could become rather weighty. However, such is the style and structure of the book, all the information feels accessible and highly readable.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
No. Part of Delwiche’s philosophy is that you don’t need speciality ingredients to become a good baker. All the recipes feature affordable ingredients you should easily be able to find in your local supermarket. Having said that, Dessert Course is designed to give you the skills to bake with confidence and understand a recipe, so you could get creative and include more extravagant ingredients once you have mastered the basics.

How easy are the recipes to follow?
There is a good mix of basic and more involved recipes. Naturally, Soda Bread is easier than Kouig-amann. However, Delwich ensures each one is clearly explained with flow charts highlighting the similarities and differences with other similar recipes (e.g. highlighting the links between Bagels and Pretzels), alongside highly informative images which clearly show the effects of different glazes, raising agents and/or how to tell if your bake is underbaked, overbaked or just right. Each recipe also includes a prep time, active time and cooking time at the top. Ideal for helping you plan how to fit a baking session into your day.

Stand-out recipes?
Don’t miss the Chewy Browned Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies or Fudgy Brownies (there are also options for ‘Chewy’ and ‘Cakey’ versions, if you prefer). The Cinnamon Coffee Cake was also a hit.

How often will I cook from this book?
As often as you want to bak. There are recipes for every occasion with all sorts of classic cakes, biscuits and breads (not forgetting the delectable desserts and pastries).vWhether you want to make up a batch of simple Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies, or master the art of buttery Brioche.

Any negatives?
It is very geared towards an American audience. Not a problem if you enjoy Snickerdoodles and Pumpkin Pie, but don’t expect to find the secret to the perfect Sticky Toffee Pud.

Should I buy the book?
If you enjoy cookbooks that delve deeper into the whys and hows of recipes, Dessert Course is the book for you. In some ways it is similar to SIFT (Nicola Lamb), although the recipes focus more on popular American crowd pleasing classics (compared to Lamb’s array of more innovative, elevated ideas).

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Matt Adlard, Nicola Lamb and Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: 4 stars
Buy this book: Dessert Course: Lessons in the Whys and Hows of Baking
£27.00, DK.

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Small Batch Cookies by Ed Kimber – Cookbook Review

Who is Edd Kimber?
A.K.A ‘The Boy Who Bakes’, Edd Kimber is an award-winning baker, food writer and Great British Bake Off (GBBO) winner. He has written several best-selling, critically acclaimed, cookbooks including One Tin Bakes (2020), One Tin Bakes Easy (2021) and Small Batch Bakes (2022). Since achieving culinary fame after GBBO, he has become a familiar fixture on television screens at home and abroad, appearing on Good Morning America, Sunday Brunch and Saturday Kitchen. He can often be found sharing his passion for baking at food festivals, cookery schools and in magazines, including olive. He also regularly shares recipes with his followers via his social media @theboywhobakes and his popular Substack newsletter. Small Batch Cookies is his 7th cookbook.

What is Small Batch Cookies’ USP?
We all have moments when we just crave a warm cookie straight from the oven. Moments when you don’t want to whip up a big batch to feed the five thousand and/or hunt out a long list of expensive ingredients. You just want to enjoy a comforting cookie (or two). These were Kimber’s inspiration for Small Batch Cookies. After all, the popularity of the infamous ‘Emergency Cookie’ in his earlier book Small Batch Bakes had proved there was a clear demand for it.

What will I love?
The concept is a clever one. It’s liberating to be able to make such an impressive variety of delicious-sounding cookie recipes (each accompanied by a beautiful photograph) without worrying about leftovers or filling the freezer. Of course, the recipes can always be scaled up so you could make larger batches if you so wish.

Kimber also caters for various diets. Think delicate gluten-free ‘Swedish Lace Cookies’ and rich ‘Chewy Flourless Double Chocolate Cookies’, vegan ‘Tahini Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies’ and ‘Speculoos-Stuffed Dark Chocolate Cookies’, and egg-free ‘Vanilla Kipferl’ and ‘Frosted Banana Bread Cookies’.

Is it good bedtime reading?
In a literary sense, not really. There is an ‘Introduction’ followed by Kimber’s ‘Perfect Cookie Manifesto’, a ‘Boring But Important Bit’ and advice on ‘Equipment’. Plus, each recipe has its own introduction. As long as you aren’t expecting long essays on the origins of the cookie, this is a joyful book to snuggle up with and contemplate your next culinary creations. I would encourage you to take a notebook to jot down a ‘to make’ list.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
There is a helpful list of recommended suppliers at the back of the book, but you should be able to find everything you need in your local supermarket for the vast majority of the recipes. The only exception would be the ‘Panela Brown Butter Shortbread’ which would need a trip to a local health shop or an online order to get your hands on panela. In fairness, Kimber does say you can use regular caster sugar, although it won’t have quite the same flavour. It is also refreshing to see vegan recipes which use regular ingredients and pretty much like-for-like substitutes (Kimber explains at the start that flax or psyllium husk egg replacers are ‘superfluous’ in small-batch baking and can easily be replaced with a splash more plant-based milk).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Kimber has ensured the recipes are as accessible as possible with helpful introductions, clear instructions (as well as explanations like ‘resting like this helps to hydrate the flour, which in turn prevents the cookies from spreading too much, leaving us with beautifully chunky cookies’), handy ‘notes’, where necessary, and storage instructions. Measurements are given for pretty much every ingredient (think 2 tsp lemon juice instead of ‘juice of 1 lemon’) so there is precious little room for error.

Stand-out recipes?
Every recipe I have tried so far has been a success. The ‘Triple Chocolate Skillet Cookie for Two’ makes for a delicious quick and easy pud served warm with a scoop of just-melting vanilla ice cream. The ‘Black Forest Brownie Crinkles’ are a must-try for brownie fans. In fact, you could skip the black forest filling and enjoy the fudgy cookies on their own.

If you ever fancied making your own version of hobnobs, the ‘Knobbly Oat Cookies’ are incredibly simple, easy to adapt for vegans and even more delicious with a layer of chocolate. Speaking of oaty cookies, don’t miss the ‘Anzac Cookies’. They have a wonderfully chewy texture and (notionally) last a long time so are ideal to make ahead. Anyone who has been lucky enough to try Sarah Nelson’s famous Grasmere Gingerbread will be delighted to see Kimber’s own interpretation. The original is a closely guarded secret, but this recipe comes very close.

How often will I cook from this book?
How often do you fancy cookies? Small Batch Cookies could easily become your go-to cookie book with recipes divided into 6 delectably titled chapters — Soft & Sumptuous; Crisp & Crunchy; Ooey Gooey; Sandwich Cookies; Chocolate Heaven; and Chewy — guaranteeing a cookie for every thinkable craving. Although the whole premise is each recipe only makes a few (servings range between 2 and 6), they can all easily be scaled up to make a full batch. You’ll probably cook more recipes from this book than a regular baking book since the smaller batches mean you can try a selection of cookies without worrying about wasting leftovers or filling your freezer to the brim.

Any negatives?
While there is something for almost every diet, the labelling of the recipes is a bit peculiar and inconsistent (for example, the Triple Ginger Molasses Cookies are vegan but there is no label to indicate they are – unlike other recipes). Plus many could easily be adapted for vegans, even though it is only mentioned in the odd recipe (think simple swaps like regular butter for plant-based butter or honey for maple syrup). One can’t help but feel Kimber missed a bit of a trick there.

It would also have been helpful to have the estimated time at the top of each recipe. This is particularly important if a recipe requires chilling.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. Anyone who remotely enjoys cookies should own a copy of Small Batch Cookies.

Cuisine: Baking
Suitable for: Cooks of all abilities
Great for fans of: Jane Dunn and Nicola Lamb
Cookbook review rating: Four stars
Buy this book: Small Batch Cookies: Deliciously easy bakes for one to six people
£22.00, Kyle Books

This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.

Fig Rolls Recipe by Ranveet Gill

I am a snacker and am so at any opportunity, be that flight, road trip, wedding, whatever. I’ll always make time to go to the shops and buy copious amounts of snacks to share. When I was at Uni, I got persuaded to go to a camping festival, so I left my friend in charge of the compulsory snack pilgrimage, only to find out all he bought were packets of fig rolls. Bizarre. He then got really high and shoved two whole packets of fig rolls into his mouth one after the other quickly. We were in stitches. I think he woke up the next day and realized his error. Whenever I make or eat fig rolls, I think of him.

MAKES ABOUT 20

Equipment
large flat baking tray

For the dough
50g unsalted butter, at room temperature
50g caster sugar
1 egg
1 capful (approx. 5ml/1 tsp) of almond extract (optional)
150g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
30g ground almonds
1/4 tsp baking powder
pinch of Maldon or flaky salt

For the fig filling
300ml water
30g soft light brown sugar
200g dried figs, stems removed and chopped
1 cinnamon stick
demerara sugar, for sprinkling

Make the dough. In a large bowl, beat the butter and caster sugar together until pale and fluffy. Mix in the egg, scraping down the sides of the bowl, along with the almond extract, if using.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt together. Add this to the butter mixture and mix until a dough forms. Knead for a minute or two until it’s homogeneous.

Pat the dough into a disc, wrap in clingfilm or baking paper and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the fig filling. In a medium saucepan, stir together the water, brown sugar, figs and cinnamon stick. Bring this to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, then simmer until the water has reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Tip the fig mixture into a heatproof bowl and leave until it is cool to touch, then refrigerate until cold, approx. 20 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick before using. Blitz to form a paste using a food processor.

Line a kitchen tray and the baking tray with baking paper and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle 38 x 18cm (15 x 7in). Cut the strip in half lengthways. Place one strip on a large sheet of baking paper – this is going to help you roll it into shape.

Spoon the fig filling into a piping bag fitted with a large plain nozzle, then pipe half of the fig filling along the length, leaving about a 2cm (3/4in) border on one side which will help you to close it. Use a pastry brush to brush water along this border. Use the baking paper to help lift the other side of the pastry over the filling and onto the dampened edge, as you would do when making sausage rolls. Use a fork to press down and seal the edges together. Place this on the lined kitchen tray and transfer to the fridge, then repeat with the second strip of pastry and the rest of the fig filling. Refrigerate for 20 minutes while the oven preheats.

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/gas mark 4.

Use a sharp knife to cut across each long roll and portion the fig rolls – cutting each one to about 3–4cm (11/4–11/2in) in size works nicely. Transfer the fig rolls to the lined baking tray, then brush them with a little water before sprinkling over a little demerara sugar.

Bake for 15–18 minutes or until golden.

Remove from the oven, cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving.

Leftovers will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Cook more from this book
Fruit scones

Read the review

Buy the book: Baking for pleasure by Ranveet Gill
£26, Pavillion Books

Sift by Nicola Lamb

Credit: Lin Pei Pei

reviewed by Sophie Knox Richmond

Who is Nicola Lamb? Nicola Lamb is a recipe developer and pastry chef famed for hosting sell-out pastry parties with her pop-bakery, Lark!, and collaborating with the likes of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Soft & Swirly and Toklas Bakery. She honed her skills at some of London and New York’s top bakeries including Happy Endings, Dominique Ansel and Little Bread Pedlar, and has seen her work featured in publications including The Guardian, Vogue and ES Magazine. She is also the author of Kitchen Projects (her weekly substack newsletter with over 50,000 dedicated subscribers) where she delves deep into the world of desserts, baking and pastries, sharing behind-the-scenes glimpses of the recipe development process and explaining the ins and outs of what, how and why a recipe works. From the lowdown on the ultimate chocolate chip cookies to how to craft beautifully buttery brioche (not forgetting more adventurous ideas like wild garlic bagels, pistachio gateau basque and caramelised white chocolate, malt and hazelnut spread), it is little wonder the Observer declared it an ‘incredible resource’. SIFT is her debut cookbook.

What is SIFT’s USP? Described as the ‘essential new baking bible’ SIFT promises to take the ‘fear out of failure’ with its collection of over 100 bakes. The first half of the book is focused on theory, featuring key elements and techniques, accompanied by illustrations and diagrams, designed to explore the hows and whys of baking. The second half is dedicated to the recipes, organised by how long you have available to bake, whether that be an afternoon (‘Bread and Butter Pudding with Caramel Mandarins’), a day (‘Rhubarb and Custard Crumb Cake) or weekend (‘Mocha Passionfruit Opera Cake’). Felicity Cloake summed it up perfectly as: ‘Everything you ever wanted to know about baking but were too afraid to ask.’

What will I love? This is the ultimate book for anyone remotely interested in baking no matter your skill level. It lays the foundations for novices to build on and professionals will find inspiring new ideas to develop their own recipes as well as reference points for substitutions.

The first half offers a fascinating look at the main ingredients at the heart of baking (e.g. flour, sugar, eggs and fat) before exploring the techniques that bring them to life (prepare to learn all about texture, colour and rising). The numerous diagrams and ‘technical overview’ help ensure the information remains clear and accessible. Each recipe highlights the techniques used so you can refer back to the theory chapters, identify links between different recipes, and work your way up to more complex ones as you grow in confidence.

Even if you aren’t interested in baking theory, Lamb’s meticulous testing and flair for flavour means the recipes alone are enough to get you grabbing your apron. Expect original sweet and savoury cakes, tarts, biscuits, pies, breads and desserts. Classics like Victoria Sandwich Cake are transformed into ‘Roasted Strawberry Victoria Sponge’, and ‘Baked Lemon Custard Brûlée’ gives Crème Brûlée a zesty modern twist.

Is it good bedtime reading? Lamb’s highly readable writing, coupled with the handy diagrams is likely to leave you staying up into the early hours learning about the ins and outs of ‘starch gelatinisation in action’ and ‘coagulation of eggs’ (I promise you, it isn’t as weighty as it sounds). You can dip in and out at your leisure, focusing on the elements you wish to learn more about at any given time. All the recipes include a short introduction too.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients? Some fruit purées and pistachio paste might need to be bought online unless you want to make your own (a recipe is included for the latter). Dried hibiscus flowers may also need hunting down but plenty of other sorbet flavours are given instead.

How easy are the recipes to follow? The book is designed for all abilities. Not all the recipes are easy but Lamb has gone to great lengths to ensure they are achievable and the processes are as clear as possible. Each recipe contains a time plan and specifies the equipment and techniques used. There are helpful notes on what to look for at each stage as well as useful tips, shortcuts and instructions on how to prep in advance and/or reheat. It couldn’t be more user-friendly if it tried.

Stand-out recipes? ‘Brown Butter Banana Cookies’ are quick, easy and incredibly moreish, ‘Ricotta, Marmalade and Hazelnut Chocolate-chip Cake’ is a must-make for chocolate-orange fans, and ‘Lemon Basque Cheesecake with Sticky Lemons’ is a beautifully balanced pud for any occasion. Banoffee-lovers shouldn’t miss the ‘Banana Pudding Pie’, and the ‘Tiramichoux’ are utterly inspired and worth the effort. On the savoury side, ‘Olive Oil Brie-oche with Roasted Grapes, Honey and Thyme’ sounds particularly delicious.

How often will I cook from this book? There is something for every mood, occasion and season so you could easily find yourself baking from this all year round, whether you are making a birthday cake for a loved one, a teatime treat to curb mid-afternoon cravings, or a show-stopping dessert for a special occasion. There’s a plethora of savoury delights ideal for lunches and suppers too.

Any negatives? None. SIFT is designed to be the ultimate baking and pastry bible and Lamb has well and truly nailed the brief.

Should I buy the book? A resounding yes. Whether you want to delve deep into the science of the Maillard reaction, or simply want to up your baking game, SIFT is an exceptional book and a must-have addition to your cookbook collection.

Cuisine: Baking and Patisserie
Suitable for: Baking enthusiasts of all abilities
Great for fans of: Ravneet Gill
Cookbook review rating: Five stars

Buy this book: SIFT: The Elements of Great Baking
£30.00, Ebury Press

Cook from this book
Secret Chocolate Cake
Miso Walnut Cookies
Cheese and Pickle Scones

Part-Time Baker: Simple Bakes Without the Stress – Book Review

Who is Florence Stanton?
Florence Stanton is a self-taught food blogger and online content creator, with a background in PR and Marketing, from South London. During the COVID-19 lockdown, she decided to start an online baking social media account @tasting.thyme. She began to share simple sweet (and the occasional savoury) bakes designed to prove that you don’t need a huge kitchen, fancy training or equipment to create truly wonderful food. She now has over 125,000 followers drooling over everything from ‘Tiramisu Brownies with a Whipped Mascarpone Frosting’ to ‘Chocolate Honeycomb Cookies’. She lives in Houston, Texas and Part-Time Baker is her debut cookbook.

What is Part-Time Baker’s USP?
Stanton has earned a reputation for keeping things simple in the kitchen on her social media account and her cookbook follows suit. Each recipe clearly states the timings involved – with many on the table in under 30 minutes, or requiring just 15 minutes hands-on time before letting the oven or the fridge do the work. Each chapter focuses on a different time of day, ensuring you can find the perfect fuss-free bake to suit any eventuality.

What will I love?
Stanton excels at offering a variety of enticing bakes that take inspiration from classic favourites, but with a little added twist. Think tangy ‘Lemon & Blueberry Bakewell Tart’ with lemon curd instead of cherry jam and ‘Black Forest Crumble’ (the addition of dark chocolate gives the comfort-food-classic an extra level of indulgence).

There is a good balance of sweet and savoury options, whether that be on-the-go breakfasts, lazy weekend brunches, homemade lunches, afternoon tea bakes, show-stopping desserts or late night treats, with options for every level of confidence, skill and timeframe. Need a quick pud for a dinner party? The ‘Mini Biscoff Cheesecake Jars’ take less than 20 minutes to pull together. Want a showstopper with added ‘wow factor’? The ‘Chocolate and Hazelnut Tart with Hazelnut Praline’ is your answer. Looking for a refreshing summer dessert? The ‘Peach Melba Eton Mess’ will go down a treat. Hoping for comfort on a chilly winter evening? Good luck choosing between the ‘Sticky Figgy Toffee Pudding’ and the ‘Leftover Almond Croissant Bread & Butter Pudding’.

Care has been taken to ensure the recipes are as accessible and clear as possible – outlining exactly the ‘hands-on’, ‘chilling’, ‘baking’ and ‘total’ time involved. There are also options for shortcuts (for example using shop-bought all-butter pastry instead of making your own rough puff), and occasional tips to encourage you to ring the changes – for example, filling the ‘Red Pesto & Mozzarella Bread Scrolls’ with red onion chutney and grated cheddar, olive tapenade or even cranberry sauce and brie for a festive twist.

Is it good bedtime reading?
If you want to go to sleep dreaming of delicious bakes to make the next day, yes. If you are looking for long, captivating prose discussing the secrets to ‘The Ultimate Chocolate Brownie’ or why sweet white chocolate, juicy raspberries and crunchy pistachios makes for an irresistible combination in the ‘White Chocolate & Pistachio Braid’, you might be a little disappointed. However, each recipe does come with a mini introduction. There is also a typical introduction at the beginning of the book where Stanton introduces herself and her baking philosophy.

Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not at all. Accessibility lies at the heart of this book, so you should be able to find all the ingredients in your local supermarket (perhaps with the exception of rose petals in the ‘Rose Shortbread Cookies’). The vast majority of recipes include regular, affordable ingredients which are likely to already feature on your shopping list (even the ‘Vegan No Bake Chocolate & Pistachio Bars’ uses no unusual ingredients aside from vegan butter).

How easy are the recipes to follow?
Very. Part Time Baker does away with complex instructions and manages to keep baking stress-free.

Stand-out recipes?
The ‘Cheat’s Almond Croissants’ are unbelievably simple and taste sublime, and the ‘Goat’s Cheese, Fig & Walnut Tart’ is delicious for lunch served with a simple salad. The ‘Leek & Potato Turnovers’ celebrates a winning flavour combination – but do try Stanton’s bombay-potato or leftover curry filled option for a samosa-inspired snack. The ‘Savoury Baked Cheesy French Toast’ is also a must-try for a weekend brunch or lunch with friends.

How often will I cook from this book?
With a good variety of sweet and savoury ideas, you could easily find yourself whipping up a few recipes from here each week without breaking the bank, having endless washing up or feeling exhausted with the effort.

Any negatives?
It’s a shame that not all the recipes include tips, tricks and alternative ideas which would have been helpful for those who want to take their bakes a bit further.

Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a great cookbook to have on the shelf whether you are the target market of baking enthusiasts who are short on time, or a keen baker looking to try some new recipes.

Cuisine: Stress-free baking
Suitable for: Baking fans who don’t have hours to spare.
Great for fans of: Jane Dunn (Jane’s Patisserie) and Eloise Head (Fitwaffle)
Cookbook review rating: Four stars

Buy this book: Part-Time Baker: Simple bakes without the stress (affiliate link)
£18.99, Carnival Books

Cook from this book
Coming soon

This review by Sophie Knox Richmond was originally published on Andy Lynes’s Smashed Substack newsletter. Subscribe here to ensure you see all the latest cookbook reviews first.

Seedy Almond Cake by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Seedy almond cake

To create this recipe, I started with a basic Victoria sponge and swapped out the white flour for a blend of wholemeal and ground almonds, reduced the sugar substantially and added extra nuts and seeds. The result is delicious – and you really do not miss all that sugar. I love to eat the cake still just warm from the oven, but it keeps well too. It’s great with a cup of tea or, for a high-fibre, probiotic pud, enjoy it with a spoonful of kefir or natural yoghurt, and a little heap of fresh berries or roasted fruit compote. The poppy seeds aren’t essential, but I love them for their look and their texture and, like any seed, they are rich in minerals.

Makes 8 slices
125g unsalted butter, softened
70g soft light brown sugar or light muscovado
Finely grated zest of 1 orange or lemon (optional)
100g wholemeal cake flour/fine plain wholemeal flour
2 tsp baking powder
100g ground almonds
25g sunflower seeds
25g poppy seeds (optional) 3 medium eggs
3 tbsp milk or water
About 20g flaked almonds or pumpkin seeds (or a mix)

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Line a 20cm round springform cake tin with baking paper.

Put the butter and sugar, and the orange or lemon zest if using, into a large bowl or a free-standing electric mixer. Use an electric hand whisk or the mixer to beat for a couple of minutes, until light and fluffy.

In a second bowl, thoroughly combine the flour, baking powder, ground almonds, sunflower seeds and poppy seeds, if using.

Add an egg and a spoonful of the dry ingredients to the butter and sugar mix and beat until evenly blended. Repeat to incorporate the remaining eggs. Tip in the remaining dry ingredients and fold together gently but thoroughly, finishing by folding in the milk or water to loosen the batter a little.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and spread it gently and evenly. Scatter with the flaked almonds and/or pumpkin seeds. Bake in the oven for 35 minutes, or until risen and golden, and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool, at least a little, on a wire rack.

Remove the cake from the tin and cut into slices to serve. It will keep in an airtight tin for up to 5 days, but you’ll most likely finish it well before then.

Cook more from this book
Overnight oats
Spicy roast parsnips

Buy the book
Eat Better Forever: 7 Ways to Transform Your Diet
£26, Bloomsbury Publishing

Read the review

Raspberry and rhubarb crumble by Gill Meller

When you sit down to a bowl of warm raspberry and rhubarb crumble, it’s easy to forget that the apple ever existed at all. In fact, you forget anything that begins with A, or anything green. For in that moment, your world literally crumbles away, leaving you with reds and gentle, sugary pinks and the magic that happens when these two ingredients are cooked together. I like to pack my crumble topping full of oats and bake it separately from the fruit, at least for a while. It becomes remarkably crunchy this way.

SERVES 4

FOR THE OAT CRUMBLE
100G (3½OZ) PLAIN FLOUR
PINCH OF FINE SEA SALT
100G (3½OZ) UNSALTED BUTTER, CUBED AND CHILLED
75G (2½OZ) UNREFINED CASTER SUGAR
75G (2½OZ) JUMBO OATS

FOR THE FILLING
ABOUT 400G (14OZ)RHUBARB STALKS, TRIMMED AND CUT INTO 2–3CM (¾–1¼IN) PIECES
ABOUT 200G (7OZ)RASPBERRIES
100G (3½OZ) UNREFINED CASTER SUGAR
1 TSP VANILLA EXTRACT

First, make the oat crumble. Heat the oven to 175°C/155°C fan/335°F/gas mark 3–4. Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and rub them thoroughly together until you have formed clumps and lumps. Line a large baking tray with a piece of baking parchment. Tip out the mixture onto the tray and distribute evenly. Set aside.

Make the filling. Place the rhubarb in a 25cm (10in) baking dish. Add the raspberries, sugar and vanilla along with a couple of tablespoons of water and tumble everything together. Place the dish of fruit in the oven as well as the tray of crumble and bake for 20 minutes, turning the crumble mixture over three or four times during baking, until clumped together, biscuity and golden. Spoon the crumble mixture onto the fruit and continue to cook for a further 10 minutes, or until the rhubarb and raspberries are soft, the juices are bubbling away and the crumble is
golden brown.

Cook more from this book

Buy this book
Root, Stem, Leaf, Flower: How to Cook with Vegetables and Other Plants
£27, Quadrille Publishing Ltd.

Read the review